/ need advice winter climbing begginer equipment partner and plan

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Fernando Sommacal - on 04 Aug 2012
Hi, there.

I want to star mountaineering snow climbing. My goal is to climbing Everest without oxigen (by the easiest route).

So what should I do? I went to a local climbing arena and the said that indoor climbing would not be really useful for that. They indicate me to go to ice factor in kinlochleven. Though I was looking people climbing and it seems fairly straightforward what you need to do. I not up to pay 50 quid for somebody to teach me how to use the equipment. I can read that and try out in a small slope. Or as on internet found 2000 quid for a training session in Eager with a professional.

Do these course teach you? I know that if you are up near summit and you need to climb a rocky negative slope all that climbing hours indoor will help because builds confidence, you know what to do. Though, I read everest is an easy climb. Not technical. Therefore Ill sure myself that I get utterly fit to face it.

I am clueless how do I start in that. Any help? Bear in mind I don't want to waste money. I was thinking of going to Ben Davis, Eager, mont blanc, then Everest. I know I need to be really fit as I am not a climber. And it guess it will have to be in alpine style Like sky run. For the everest I will need a Sherpa. And an expedition to get there. If needed I would also fancy climbing an easy 8000 chi yoo as preparation.

My equipment can be second hand. Just the vital ones prefer new. So what do I need? How much will it cost? For now the beginning is alright if I get only the basic stuff.

I am working 8 hours day 6 days a week on minimal,wages. . Wherever I can go jogging.

I live in Edinburgh.22 years old. Athletic shape, however I am weak in force, never went to the gym(I am starting in august to go to). I ve been jogging and commute cycling quite a lot.I am lung fit.

I have never climbed before.

I am after smart advice.
Fernando Sommacal - on 04 Aug 2012
Going to highlands soon. Forgot to put anyone up to be my climbing partner or I partner with?
Siward on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:

You are in Edinburgh, which is a good start. Experience is what you need- not just as to the technicalities of climbing but just being out in the hills in all weather. My advice is to join a mountaineering club and the rest will follow...
andork123 - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: im pretty sure for any novice mountaineer you should have a guide for Everest, the logistics are massive even getting the gear to the base camp wich means thats it costs 60,000 wich i assume includes all gear.

just because a lot climb Everest now doesn't make it safe. the amount of money that goes into the best weather readings are ridiculous and without a guide and team with sherpas and the top level brand new gear it just wont happen :(
nniff - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:

Start saving:

Everest + Lhotse Schedule & Prices

2013 Schedule
March 30 - June 1, 2013
Arrive Kathmandu April 1, end date subject to change.

Land Costs
$85,000

Payments
Deposit: $7,000 due upon registration
Deposit: $10,000 due October 1, 2011
Balance: $68,000 due 120 days prior to departure
skarabrae - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: you`ll need to take a packed lunch.
a flask of hot soup (tomato)will come in handy also.
tspoon1981 on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to skarabrae:
> (In reply to Fernando Sommacal) you`ll need to take a packed lunch.
> a flask of hot soup (tomato)will come in handy also.

I'm a scotch broth fan myself, I don't believe there are soup specific regulations on Everest, but I could be wrong.

In reply to Fernando, while we wait on clarification on soup specifics, remember to take a fleece or warm ex-army jumper, I hear Everest is cold this time of year.
skarabrae - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to tspoon1981: i really dont think you should be advising people to take scotch broth to everest! as at altitude scotch broth will congeal & cause altitude sickness!! hence tomato (thin)!
tspoon1981 on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to skarabrae: I was thinking about the extra calories, surely tomato soup has very few, which is fine when doing an alpine route but when faced with Everest the extra nutrition and calories may come in handy.

What's your position on pot noodles?
Enty - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to tspoon1981:
> (In reply to skarabrae) I was thinking about the extra calories, surely tomato soup has very few, which is fine when doing an alpine route but when faced with Everest the extra nutrition and calories may come in handy.
>


Kendal Mint Cake - always a winner on Everest!

E

skarabrae - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to tspoon1981: when i soloed rum doodle i ate nothing but pot noodles (chicken & mushroom)
an excellent choice, if you dont mind the extra weight i strongly recommend making sandwiches with them, especially if you use butter (NOT margerine) so that the butter melts & dribbles over your fingers when eating them.
tspoon1981 on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to skarabrae: Well, our work here is done Fernando can now climb Everest with a correctly packed lunch box.

Don't forget the Army surplus jumper though.
tistimetogo on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:

I suspect a troll. But I'll respond just in case.

"I have never climbed before."Get started. You can have a lot of fun in Scotland, even before it gets cold. If you don't like heading out climbing/scrambling then maybe you shouldn't take it any further.

"Though, I read everest is an easy climb. Not technical." Even on non-tech routes a good understanding of rope work is essential. Things happen that you can't anticipate and Everest is an incredibly serious undertaking. No one should ever call it easy.

"Bear in mind I don't want to waste money" Personally I think this is exactly what Everest is. To others it's just expensive.
Wesley Orvis - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:

Troll 7/10
Fernando Sommacal - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: what is Troll 7/10 is that a climb?
wee jamie on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: Troll is a mountaineering equipment manufacturer. 7/10 is an old wedge they used to make that is essential for protecting the Hilary Step on the Southeast ridge of Everest
Fernando Sommacal - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: have you climbed up there?
Alex Slipchuk on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to wee jamie:
> (In reply to Fernando Sommacal) Troll is a mountaineering equipment manufacturer. 7/10 is an old wedge they used to make that is essential for protecting the Hilary Step on the Southeast ridge of Everest
crackin advice there jamie.
skarabrae - on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:
> (In reply to Fernando Sommacal) have you climbed up there?

I was up there on Thursday (around teatime) it wasn't in great nick, turf wasn't frozen & a bit sketchy due to powder. A bit of a freeze thaw cycle needed, should be canny by January tho (around the 17th 10am ish)
susie sherpa-baer - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal:
There are lots of 5- 6000 metre 'trekking peaks' in Nepal, - Island Peak, Mera Peak, Tent Peak.... get some experience out there with good Sherpa guides and then you will see what is possible for you. After that bigger straight forward mountains like Lhakpa Ri in Tibet at 7000 metres and Cho Oyu 8000 metres then you will know if Everest is a realistic goal. Expect to spend 2000-3000 per trip for a trekking peak trip.
Good luck, Susie Sherpa-Baer
ads.ukclimbing.com
dremelmaster - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Fernando Sommacal: i know a well run uk based expedition that provides 1:1 summit day climbing sherpa, full oxygen plus spares, sherpa support that carries some of your gear between camps, and a 3-6 week trek taking on a summit or 2 making acclimatisation awesome before you even arrive in basecamp. that way, even if you dont make the summit of everest you havnt totally wasted your money. personally, if i got to the balcony (you may even see juliet) I wouldnt regard it as a disaster.
all this for a good value $40000 USD when you consider some trips are a whacking $100,000. I would want Reinhold Messner and Ed Vuisters holding my hand for that money. He can also take you out in a scottish winter and ama dablam to hone some of the skills beforehand. alternatively ignore all the above, catch a flight, wear a decent parker and balaclava, tie wrap some sppikes to your rockports and sprint up it for $200

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