/ Crampons+axe for Piz Badile approach?
I'm thinking of doing the North Ridge of Piz Badile sometime in the next few weeks. I know the approach involves crossing some snow fields (but presumably no crevassed glaciers). Are there enough snow crossings to require an ice axe and crampons?
Also if anyone has advice on the descent it would be appreciated. I'm probably climbing on double 50m ropes and am relatively efficient on abseils so I'm leaning towards abseiling off.
If you approach from the Capanna Sciora, you won't cross any permanent snow patches at all, as far as I can remember.
I guess just to reiterate what others have said, my buddy and I did the North Ridge in perfect conditions on July 18th and the approach + conditions were excellent and I just had a small pack-away grivel walking pole. If interested you can view a short film of the Nordkante showing the conditions, approach and all on the following link:
We took the easier descent into Italy and the Gianetti Hut but it still was a bit of a ballache as route finding was not always obvious (look for the big ab rings and disregard the places were there is tat!) + we had only a single rope and some of the abs (into the obvious couloir a 100M or so from the summit and from the iron cross near the end of the descent) required doubles IMHO. Thankfully some kind Swiss folks let us use a couple of their abs! We were very lucky and our mate drove round to Italy and met us at the Gianetti so we did not have to walk over the 2 passes back to the Sasc Fura. Another option is the Swiss walked back down as well and took a taxi (very expensive) back to Bondo. However quite a few parties who had completed the Cassin + Another Day abbed down the North ridge but I reckon it would take a long, long while... :-)
> If you approach from the Capanna Sciora, you won't cross any permanent snow patches at all, as far as I can remember.
Tim, the path from the Sciora is closed due to some huge rockfall that occurred in December and it is continuing to throw rocks down from the scar everyday for the foreseeable future.
Yep Heike spot on advice! The Viale path is shut due to the ma-hoosive rockfall on Piz Cengalo. When my buddy and I were on the BŁgeleisen a few weeks ago there was a more or less continuous bombardment of large, bad stuff coming down so folks you can get to the aforementioned route safely but please avoid the path from Pizzi Gemelli onwards to the Col Viale!
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