/ Narcolepsy and climbing safety???

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trubs - on 13 Aug 2012
i have recently been diagnosed with narcolepsy and am on the medication for it which is working perfectly but my problem is a side part of narcolepsy called cataplexy. Cataplexy is a sudden and transient episode of loss of muscle tone, often triggered by emotions, and my medication is helping loads but not 100%.
I now feel fit enough to get back on the rock but am worried about seconding/belaying someone encase i have a catapleic fit. I am more in control of them and the likelihood is slim but i want to be extra careful.

my question is.... Is there any type of belay device that is self locking and reliable. I have research the grigri range but i was wondering if i should be looking at any other belay devices to ensure i get the best. also are there any other climbers with narcolepsy is so any advice in general and for climbing?

thanks
Trubs
mkean - on 13 Aug 2012
In reply to trubs:
General opinion is that the Gri-gri is not totally hands free so won't be 100% safe for your partner. I think there is an industrial version that is more expensive, heavier but more of a certainty (perhaps the ID?). Part of the problem is that it is rather awkward for the climber if they get stuck up a route because you can't lower them. This is something that you are going to have to work out very carefully with your climbing partners as there is the potential to get into a quite tricky self rescue situation.
Andy DB - on 13 Aug 2012
In reply to trubs: There is loads of assisted belay devices out there but none of them will them will fix the problem of your (even exceptionally understanding) partner sh*tting themselves if you did have a Cataplexy episode. Your best bet is probably go for a device you are comfortable with and take a third mate.
climber david - on 13 Aug 2012
In reply to mkean:
> (In reply to trubs)
> (perhaps the ID?). Part of the problem is that it is rather awkward for the climber if they get stuck up a route because you can't lower them. This is something that you are going to have to work out very carefully with your climbing partners as there is the potential to get into a quite tricky self rescue situation.

the ID can be used as a belay device as well and can lower according to the pdf instructions

www.petzl.com/en/pro/self-braking-descenders/id-s

unless you mean the antipanic function in which case you are dompletely correct

David

P.S. not a professional, just read a bit about it because I thought about trying to get a job in rope access
ads.ukclimbing.com
deepsoup - on 13 Aug 2012
In reply to climber david:
> the ID can be used as a belay device as well and can lower according to the pdf instructions

What the instructions don't tell you is that while its an excellent descender, it's a *terrible* belay device.

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