/ Anyone used a Black Diamond First Shot (for Abalokov's)

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Andy Mountains - on 14 Aug 2012
Just wondering if anyone has used one of these, and was it more of a faf than it is worth, or worth getting?
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/ice-protection/first-shot-ice-screw-guide/
BallsOfSteel - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains:
Bought one for use in the Ecrin.
Never used it, except to try and cut some dyneema tape using the blade....the blade bent with very little force applied. for a serrated and sharp-looking blade, its surprisingly dull and useless for cutting.

My opinion is that you're probably better off finding some fat ice to do a few practice abalokovs on, and then at least its a skill you have that doesnt rely on carrying more kit up the mountain.

if you really need one, you can buy mine with no use and the blade bent back straight for 10. hahah

BOS
JH74 - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains:

People survived for so long without this multi-tool so I'd echo what the other guy said..
Andy Mountains - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains:

Yeah thanks for advice, just musing really. Birthday coming up soon you see.
In reply to Andy Mountains: This guy does a lot of multipitch ice in places with next to no other climbers (hence making your own abalakovs) and he says don't bother: http://www.climbingextreme.com/2010/05/review-black-diamond-first-shot/525
diddler - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains:

Ive used one, but found it kind of pointless, if you can make one without, why bother.
cliff shasby - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains: A guy i ice climb with has one,i call it the last shot,every time he's tried to use it he's spent ages messing around with it jamming up etc,partly due to grivel screws not fitting it right partly due to the fact that ice is not flat !.
i end up drilling one instead in about 2 mins,not even worth considering in my view...
dek - on 14 Aug 2012
In reply to Andy Mountains:
Petzl used to have I good little instructional video on their website showing the relative strengths of screws v abalokovs. If I recall they just made the thread anchors in ( river ice ) using the screws. Well worth watching if you can find it.

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