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Topic - Patient lakeland partner needed

fionafluffy - on 16 Aug 2012
I learnt to climb about eleven years ago and spent a blissful summer on Lakeland rock, followed by a bit of climbing in NZ that winter and then a bit of Lakeland climbing the following summer. I was just foraying into leading and the pinnacle of my achievement was leading a couple of pitches on Troutdale Pinnacle.

And then - not a lot happened. Maybe a couple of short climbs per year, but mainly nothing. I have done a little this year, but am finding it tricky to find people to take me out. Most people want to do more challenging stuff than I am up for, and the one person who is willing has opposing work schedules to me.

I work split shifts and am free between 12 and 5pm Weds - Sun, and off all day Mon and Tues. I have lost a lot of my confidence - I still know HOW to climb, but wet or polished rock freaks me(so NOT the popular routes on Brown Slabs!) I have never been good on steep routes and even less so now, so need someone who is willing to do nice angled climbs up to severe. When time permits I infinitely prefer high crag climbing (my fave route this year was Oxford and Cambridge linked to another route on Grey Crag in Buttermere; fave route of all time is Tophets Wall on Great Gable). I am about 10 mins from Shepherds Crag, so that is very easy for me to access on a split shift, but am happy to go further afield.

You also need to know that adrenaln makes me incredibly tired, so I tend to only want to do one or two routes if they are short. Because I know I have to get to the top, and because I enjoy them more, I manage to keep the adrenalin levels going for a bit longer on the multi-pitch, high level routes. But don't expect me to be up for 6 routes on Shepherds! One is very often enough if it is the quality of Little Chamonix. After that, cake calls at Shepherds Caff!

I appreciate that this sounds very exacting, but I know from past experience that if I don't spell out my lack of confidence and the effect adrenalin has on me, that both parties are disappointed.

I really want to improve my climbing and get to a stage where the adrenalin isn't pumping quite so much, so that I can do more in an afternoon. I would also like to get to a stage where I can begin to lead again. It;s the rope work that gets me - setting up a belay worries me considerably! Placing gear makes sense - how the rope works is....gobbledy gook!

I appreciate this is quite a challenge, but is there anyone out there who thinks they are up to it?

Thanks for reading this

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