/ belay plates

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Ashley Gates - on 18 Aug 2012
Is it true that belay devices, including figure of eights offer poorer braking, when the rope moves over a shallower braking angle
highclimber - on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65: if you mean like angle created when you have your hand above the belay device, then yes. Friction can be though of in degrees of a circle. A regular atc style device creates a side ways S shape which comprises of 360 deg of a circle - 180 where the rope goes under the Krab and the other 180 created whn the rope goes over the edge of the device. if you look at and braking device the priciple is the same - anything less than 360 deg will mean less friction, more than 360 will increase friction.
Ashley Gates - on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to highclimber:
Think I know what your saying, but more to the point regardless of the overall rope route, the actual arc that the rope moves over where friction is created on the belay device,
Though I understand that like you say 2 lots of 180 degrees, must surely be better than one.
deepstar - on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=509008 There is a lot more about this on here.
highclimber - on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65: The friction isn't created on just the lip of the device, i'd argue quite a large % is created on the krab.
Ashley Gates - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to highclimber: krabs are not created for use as a braking device, with regard to the suggested forum, they may have also been used as a heat distribution device, this system where I have seen it used, was on pretty ancient belay plates better off retired
highclimber - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65:
> (In reply to highclimber) krabs are not created for use as a braking device,
I never suggested they were. they are, however, necessary in the system as a whole.
Ashley Gates - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to highclimber: thanx : )
jimtitt - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65:
The HMS karabiner was specifically designed (and patented)for use as a belay device.
Oceanrower - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to budgie65:
> (In reply to highclimber) krabs are not created for use as a braking device, with regard to the suggested forum, they may have also been used as a heat distribution device, this system where I have seen it used, was on pretty ancient belay plates better off retired

The Italian Hitch has been around quite a while now.....
Ashley Gates - on 20 Aug 2012
In reply to Oceanrower: does that mean the Italians hate us
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ashley Gates - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Oceanrower:
Interesting shot of krab breakages sept climber mag page 57

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