/ NEWS: VIDEO: New E8 on Carn Vellan for Alexis Perry

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UKC News - on 21 Aug 2012
Alexis Perry - E8 Carn Vellan, 5 kbDave Henderson reports on a new E8 on the super-steep cliff of Carn Vellan:

"Carn Vellan, the pulsating heart of Cornish climbing controversy. A daunting, incredible overhang obscured by bile and bitterness. This route ties together a trad route, Ziggurat, and a debolted sport route, 1025, into one big trad pitch..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67367

Phil Ev - on 21 Aug 2012
Well done man! Looks nails...

... but where was the Jethro Tull sound track to the vid?
johncook - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News: I really loved this video. None of the over posed moves and hyper edited climbing movement shots, just an honest low budget record of a climb, with amusing but real comments added. Not a sponsors name to be seen, no careful body movements, or close ups, to allow the name on the shorts/gear/shoes to accidentally become apparent. No blatent ego moves that have been over practiced so the climber looks bored with them or they look silly easy. Make some more films like this and put them on the site.
jon on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent! What a great and inspiring looking line. I can hear the lid popping off the can of worms as I type!
JH74 - on 21 Aug 2012
Excellent!

Let's just hope that no-one comes along and says stuff like 'actually Ziggurat goes approx 6cm to the left so the line you tried was only E1'

Any comical pun style names for this route? I'll start with Skidmark... Let's get goin!



In reply to UKC News: I have to say - I loved this video! :-)
oakapple - on 21 Aug 2012
Great work Alexis. I cannot believe it was dry after the summer we have had!!
Michael Gordon - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Well he's right about the video - absolutely awful!
pezzerrr - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Phil Ev:

You know me too well. Obviously, I can't watch it without putting on some agriculturally-inspired prog rock. I assume everyone else does the same.
Phil Ev - on 21 Aug 2012
It'd be beauty set to a rock lament to the demise of the heavy horse's.

Proper Extreme
oakapple - on 21 Aug 2012
Did you repeat any of the other trad routes while you were there? and did you have a chance to look at rewind?
DAVETHOMAS90 - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

"I no longer wish to see Carn
Vellan as a sport crag. I have
spent hours in this beautiful,
wild and lonely location.
Sport crags are busy. Sport
crags are loud. More people
never make for a better cliff.
Carn Vellan is sensitive: bolts
it can live with; crowds it
cannot."

A very persuasive perspective on the situation! The sentiment is also reflected so very well in the video; somehow, the soundtrack of the surf alone draws attention to the action.

And what an amazing looking route! Thoroughly inspiring.

However, WADA may be launching an investigation into this suspicious performance on account of tea consumption, and the likelihood that limits for caffeine ingestion were exceeded.

Dave.
pezzerrr - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to oakapple:

No I haven't. Some of those pitches round by Zero Gravity look good, if quite tidal. Ziggurat 2nd belay no longer in existence. Not sure how toprope-able Rewind is- ground-up is presumably a risky proposition. It's wet so often that it would make for a properly frustrating project- unless of course you're a) talented enough to tick it quickly or b) local. I'm not either.
Joshua Penn-Watson - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News: didnt watch past the initial warning about wasting my life on watching climbing vedieos, actually found that kinda inspiring, gonna go work on my camper van instead. thanks
Mick Brinks - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News: Lovely that! Thanks very much
EmlynH - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News: I agree with the author. That was a very shit climbing video.
Jamie B - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

> Sport crags are busy. Sport crags are loud. More people never make for a better cliff. Carn Vellan is sensitive: bolts it can live with; crowds it cannot."

Applaud the sentiment, but not convinced that CV would be a particularly crowded sport crag. It's a long way from any big climbing populations, very conditions dependent and the routes would all be in the F8s.

Whether these are arguments for or against bolting/debolting are of course an entirely seperate debate.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort, that man.

Enjoyed the video; could have done without the captions but each to his on (also, did my eyes decive me or did the caption say the gear was pre-placed, which it obviously wasn't. Probably not.).

Strange how hard it is to capture the steepness of CV on video; some of the ME footage it looks really steep, other times much less so.

jcm
oakapple - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to pezzerrr:

Ahh that not such good news is Ziggurat climbable? or is the rope drag going to kill it? Zero gravity is an amazing pitch positive holds all the way, steep ground and with good spaced gear probably one of the best E3's in the Penwith. Fun curve factory is also "fun" and has now been done as a deep water solo, requires calm sea as on first attempt rock was hit as a wave sucked it almost dry. I held the ropes at the BMC meet for a couple of lads on Bridge of Sies, they really rated the climbing about F7b upto the crux after the ziggurat belay, which is then followed by a F7c crux section (possibly 2rp's still in situ) to an easy finish where there used to be a bolt.
pezzerrr - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I don't think the video says anything about pre-placed gear- I did scuttle along the break a bit to put some of the gear in then scuttled back to the no-hander, but it was all on lead without weighting any of it.

Quite right about the steepness- until you go right to the back you get no idea. 7:27.13 is really steep as it is, and it avoids all the really steep bits of the crag! That bottom of The Lid and Monster Munch is somewhere between 45 degrees and horizontal.
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Tom Last - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to oakapple:

Hi Oakapple.

With a calm sea and high tide, would you say that Fun Curve Factory is safe? What sort of S-grade are you looking at?

Cheers,
Tom.
oakapple - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to Southern Man: You would have to ask Max Dutson as he was the man who did it. I would reckon S1 for a high tide and calm sea, the route is not that high, but the crux is right at the top. Having said that Max fell off hit the rocks and walked away. I reckon I might be tempted on a mill pond spring tide :)
Tom Last - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to oakapple:

Wow, sounds like an exciting time! Cheers for the info. Good work on your new Helman stuff + repeats by the way, I couldn't see how Moves Me was even possible!
maxd - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Well as luck would have it I'm bored at work perusing the web. If only out enjoying the sunshine! Tom - FCF - awesome DWS maybe 7a+, S1. Often greasy - was the first time I tried - fell off c 6ft below top and hit the submerged rock at full depth (ie. with tiptoes). NOT as James suggests a dry rock revealed by wave surging in and out!! Got it a month later. Spring tide definitely best and does need to be pretty calm as water surges thro the arch with any significant swell... Enjoy!! (PS Also get on John Fletcher's wolframite at Cligga - c6c+, S1/2?). If you know of any other potential DWS' tell me!!! Right.. back to work
Max
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to pezzerrr:

>I don't think the video says anything about pre-placed gear-

No, it doesn't; in fact it says the reverse. I'm an idiot.

jcm
royal - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Cool vid, great effort. Bizarre how wide lens are on phones these days? When you go down there you can hardly even see the whole top half of the cliff above the overhang he falls from. The bottom part is so much steeper than it looks in the vid, esp off to the left where its over 45 degrees.

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