/ NEW ARTICLE: Classic in the Carneddau - Amphitheatre Buttress

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UKC Articles - on 21 Aug 2012
Carnedd Article, 3 kbHere Dave Clarke gives us an account of his day out up on Craig Yr Ysfa, North Wales.

"Amphitheatre Buttress has been on my tick list since I started climbing over a decade ago. Like most of us it's a mandatory day out for all aspiring and competent mountaineers alike, a classic route with an air of history and sense of nostalgia, the perfect ingredients for a vintage day out..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4840

BALD EAGLE - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article Dave on a great classic Carneddau route!
I went back and repeated the route for the first time in 10 years on the first May Bank Holiday earlier this year. It was baltically cold with occasional snow flurries and numb fingers + toes to add to the excitement, but a grand day out was had by all with the alpine ridge and gendarmes providing most excellent value. What with the mists of time and all I had forgotten how good and splendidly exposed this pitch was. Anyway it was duly recorded on my GoPro and for anyone interested in viewing a short film of this classic easy route then please use the following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSOhSgyElhE
If you wish to sample the full High Def experience you should be able to change the "Quality" icon to 720p HD in the bottom right hand corner on the You Tube screen!
Cheers Dave

In reply to UKC Articles:

Isn't the article really about Amphitheatre Gully?



Chris
Dom Whillans on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Isn't the article really about Amphitheatre Gully?
>
>
>
> Chris

isn't the article really about drinking water, sorry, i mean "hydration"?
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
or even Great Gully
In reply to Toreador:

Good point - well made!


Chris
keith leonard - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Once recorded 60mph on a mtb on that road from the reservoir.
ericinbristol - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

That looks amazingly crap. One for my list of things not to do...
A Crook on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Classic route Classic typo.

Did this wet gem (Great Gulley) a few years ago in Classically wet conditions. Dom forgot his harness. I only bought a 25m rope. Not a rock boot in sight. Dead sheep spotted - 0. Bits of ancient retreat gear collected - 6 (later tested by DMM and surprisingly one piece took a load of over 43KN!! not bad for a rusted and eroded piece of ironmongery). Water falls climbed - 3.

Great day out recommended by anyone who likes the esoteric and a bit of adventure.
andyd1970 - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: I have done Amphitheatre Buttress and this looks like the Gulley at the side of the Buttress not the actual route which looks much better!!!
Simon Caldwell - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to ericinbristol:
> That looks amazingly crap. One for my list of things not to do...

Your loss!
http://yorkalpineclub.org.uk/blogs/?p=2711
Double Knee Bar - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Again, wrong route. This is Great Gully.
BALD EAGLE - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

For those who appear to be a little confused, it is really quite simple if you read the account fully, that the article is one guys story of climbing Amphitheatre Buttress in the morning and Great Gully in the afternoon in the Carneddau. Perhaps the article should of been called "Classics in the Carneddau" instead... :-)
Double Knee Bar - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: I must admit, I only looked at the pictures.
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> For those who appear to be a little confused, it is really quite simple if you read the account fully, that the article is one guys story of climbing Amphitheatre Buttress in the morning and Great Gully in the afternoon in the Carneddau. Perhaps the article should of been called "Classics in the Carneddau" instead... :-)

Indeed, Amphitheatre Buttress gets a couple of sentences (the aperitif) and the Gully gets the full treatment (the main course) so the title is a little misleading.

Chris
wilkie14c - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to All:

Correct! Its more about Great Gully than Amphitheatre Buttress but the aim of the day was mainly Amphitheatre Buttress, it only turned into something stupid and wet when we did Amphitheatre Buttress in a hour or so (I had a feeling we would) I'd plotted on the build up to that day just by dropping in the fact that 'ooo look, that classic rock route is on the same cliff...'. I planned it all and Dave feel for it hook line and sinker! 'bring some waterproofs just in case like' "Eh? its gonna be red hot' 'No mate, showers forecast and you never know, bring food for 12 hours too, there are notorious glaciers and seracs up there, plus with the rain we'll be getting...'
Dave just looked at me sideways and says 'right, whatever makes you happy....'
I softened him up by giving every pitch on AB thats when I struck 'come on, lets just have a look at it while we are walking back...'
We always do the shakey-hands photo at the end of epic days, I'm chuffed to have done the route and Dave is just happy I've not tied him off somewhere and left him in the bowels of Wales! He loved every minute really.
Some tough climbing, don't think GG is a bimble. Gear is sometimes tricky to find, everything is wet and running and there are some tight spots that are made harder by wearing a sack. Don't be afraid to aid bits of it, this is one of those routes where getting to the top in one piece is seen as a success.
Amphitheatre Buttress I thought was a soft touch for its grade however, its a fair march to get to it and it a long mountain route so for noobies to these sort of routes the grade is perhaps fair. It'd be a great route for those keen to get on longer routes, great gear and belays and vey easy route finding. Its more of a ridge route than a buttress route.
Bikes are optional :-)

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