/ San Melas - Roaches Skyline - How big are your friends?

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The Iain - on 22 Aug 2012
So, I've been looking at San Melas at Roaches Skyline, and it's WAY above my grade but IF I were to go and have a look at it, what size cam does it take in the break? It looks like a BFC (Big F'in Cam) but how big?
Coel Hellier - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:

About WC 3.5 and/or 4, if I recall.
A Crook on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:

Sack the cam and take a mat. Fluff the top and most likely you deck.
bullybones - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:
Bad advice. It's runout, but fluff below the top and you might well not deck. 2xF3 is what I used, but 3.5/4 prolly OK too.
Coel Hellier - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

> Sack the cam and take a mat. Fluff the top and most likely you deck.

That's bad advice, the very top from where you might deck is only 4c or so, and way easier than the 5c crux for which you want the cam protection.
Hephaestus - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:

There's a range of placements between 3 and 4. Set yourself a baby bouncer and enjoy a safe e3 slab but make sure your belayer is on their toes and keeping the ropes relatively snug.

Enjoy, it's a very nice route.
A Crook on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

just had a look at some pictures. after being told how bad my advice was. Although you would deck from the top it is unlikely as it gets easier. For some reason my memory told me the break was lower, but as you can see it isn't. apologies.
The Iain - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to Everyone:

Thanks y'all. Can someone define a "baby bouncer" for me, sounds like one rope with a cam to one's left, and one rope with a cam to one's right.

Since this is looking like a requirement for a pair of pretty big cams, and I have no cams, I think it's probably coming off the list.

Same as it looks like one that would really play to my strengths - appart from my distinct lack of cajones, that's where it would all fall apart, but it's one of the things I'm trying to work on.
The Iain - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:
> Same as it looks like one that would really play to my strengths - appart from my distinct lack of cajones, that's where it would all fall apart, but it's one of the things I'm trying to work on.

Just thought I should qualify this by stating that I appreciate fear is quite a useful survival skill! A guide I was skiing with a couple of years ago, and discussing my getting really gripped up while climbing commented that respect for the situation is good at keeping you alive, but one should also be very aware of when it's irrational - like the time I sat on Black and Tans for about 10 minutes completely unable to move, despite being protected by two #10 nuts in completely bomber placements.
The Iain - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:
> Same as it looks like one that would really play to my strengths - appart from my distinct lack of cajones, that's where it would all fall apart, but it's one of the things I'm trying to work on.

Oh, and that should have read "shame"
Coel Hellier - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:

> Can someone define a "baby bouncer" for me, sounds like one rope with a cam to one's left, and one rope with a cam to one's right.

Yes. Although for this route gear on one side only (slightly to the left) is normal and ok.

> Since this is looking like a requirement for a pair of pretty big cams, and I have no cams, I think
> it's probably coming off the list.

Yes, you will need one or two cams of WC 3 to 4, though these are sizes most people have, so could readily be borrowed.
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Jon Stewart - on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to The Iain:

Just to say that I really enjoyed the route, but it's worth knowing that it is worth its grade. I did it in perfect, cold conditions and it felt fine - I personally wouldn't do it on a sweaty day. It's pretty lonely up there once you've left the gear behind and it's a little while before you're home and dry.


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