UKC

Hazel Findlay has visited the Italian granite venue of Cadarese and climbed The Doors, a 40m crack line graded 8b.

"One of the prettiest cracks I've ever seen, and close to 40m. 'Splitter' enough to look nice, but broken enough to have some really interesting movements."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67371

In reply to UKC News:

I read this the other day on her blog and was astounded by how understated she is about the whole thing.

Astounding climbing.

In reply to UKC News:

Looks a nice route. I wonder how the grade compares to some of the harder US crack stuff?

In reply to UKC News:

A good tick. I'd disagree with her about Cadarese not being a summer crag, though. I was there exactly three weeks ago - Aug 1st - and the temperatures were fine. We even belayed with a light jacket on. OK, we weren't climbing 8b, but I'd say we probably put in as much effort! There's a heatwave in Europe at the moment and many places are 40°C, so I think that's a little more relevant.

In reply to Craig Smith:
Swedish Oskar Alexandersson thought 8a when he climbed it. As far as I know he has quite à lot of exp. in that grade on traditionally protected granite cracks. And it indeed looks like à super climb!

In reply to jon: Can you tell me what guide book covers this area. I have been wanting to go there for ages and i am moving to Innsbruck about 5 hours away and I want to find out info for granite trading within a 6 hour drive of Innsbruck. Thanks.

In reply to Aigen:
It's in the Versante Sud guidebook - I believe it was this guidebook:
http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=76

You can buy the guide just for Cadarese using Versante Sud's app.

Info on Cadarese also here: http://ossolaclimbing.org/node/99

In reply to DanielJ:


Interesting. I guess some of the Swedish crack routes of around that grade, like the ones here in Finland, are half or a third of the length of Cadarese so you'd expect them to be more technical to merit the same grade.

In reply to TobyA: Maybe he's comparing it to Presenten?!

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: I knew I had heard that name before but it took a bit of creative googling! http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/americanmeatballs/index4.html

Have you done it Tom? I imagine you'd enjoy Bohuslän!