UKC

Tried this today and started it as far left as I could on crimps in a break and worked out all of the moves along until the end where is was baffled. Where does it finish? I ended up having my right hand on the sloping hold with left still on ear type hold and then bounced to the top but I suspect this is wrong. I did work out how to drop both hands onto the sloping hold and small crimp next to it but got annoyed so left. Any clues?

In reply to oldcheese: I was pretty sure it finished in the two very positive holds at about waist height, roughly below where the chockstone starts.. Not 100% sure though.

In reply to Hazelnuts: Yes these were the holds I meant when I said the sloping hold and the crimp. About a meter from the arête under the chock stone. If I had been sure this was the finish I would have put in the extra effort to do the last move, ah well

In reply to oldcheese:

Move/dyno from those two good holds to the top - V2 in its own right.

HTH

In reply to oldcheese:

Project is to finish the cave traverse into British East Africa if you have any skin left.

Good luck!

In reply to Southern Man:

I've been wanting to try that for ages! Haven't been able to get back there though. Would it still count if a rest was taken between the two using a foot jam type thing?

Has the cave traverse into ice cream soldiers been done yet?

In reply to Hazelnuts:

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I suppose it depends on what you're happy with. It may be possible to move straight from the twin finishing holds of Cave Traverse, straight into the hand jams of Ice Cream Soldiers/British East Africa. I guess that would be the purest line, but a little eliminate. A rest would surely give you a tick of a V8, followed by a V5/7, no mean feat, but I guess not quite a good as doing a sustained mega link-up of the two at what V9/10???

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I don't think so, I'm pretty sure Jamie never did it in the end. AFAIK, Cave Traverse only had its first repeat the other month (unless you know otherwise?) along with the first repeat of the other V8 Moves Me and the FA of a V9 Bodmin Queen.

Good luck if you get on it, gis a shout if you need a spot.

In reply to oldcheese: having made it to the last hold within a few goes after working each move I initially though V8 was generous but in retrospect it is fair especially if you do have to drop down to match the last holds ( I am not sure if anyone has confirmed this as the end?). I guess heading up from here and finishing the V6/7 would warrant a V9 ( font 7b+ would be about right) but it would be a bit disjointed and there would need to be more clarity in what is in and out in any descriptions. Especially when you can get the top of the block and where you start from.

Could have done with a spot yeaterday as really wanted to try what I though was 'moves me'. Does this start from the block on the rot and traverse up and left on sharp slopers? It looked like you could hit the big block form the early moves

In reply to Southern Man:

Thats what I was thinking, moving straight from the finishing holds into the hand jams and I suppose a rest would ruin the slightly 'endurancy' nature of the problems..

Ah damn! I got so close back in june!!

I couldn't find either Moves Me or Bodmin Queen. The descriptions are a bit vague and don't have any images. Do you know if these climbs are being lusted in the new guide?

In reply to Hazelnuts: Bodmin queen is directly above the cave and facing it. Just left of battle of the bulge, sharp crystal undercuts to poor crystals crimp and a MASSIVE span to a sloper.

I thought that Moves me was on the large boulder left of this as looking at BQ. On the opposite end and egg like in appearance. That one looks great just a pity I don't think I will be back as the link would be ok but would need a spot off the block as a would be a bit spent

In reply to oldcheese: Ah ok that makes more sense, thanks for that! Wow sounds fun, and bloody hard!!

Ok, now I have some more things to work when I next return there! Yeah thats always a bit of a nuisance..

Thanks for the help!!

In reply to oldcheese:

I was shown Moves Me as to be on a boulder on the direct approach from the carpark. So instead of heading up to the main upper area, you skirt round to the right and it's in front of you before you drop down to the cave.

I don't know if this tallies with your description, as I don't know where BQ is.

Either way Moves Me looks mightily hard!

Hazelnuts. I would imagine they will be in the new guide as other bits of it look amazing and comprehensive.