/ NEWS: Major New Climbing Centre in Sheffield

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UKC News - on 23 Aug 2012
The design for the competition wall at the new Awesome Walls Sheffield, 3 kbA major new climbing centre has been proposed for Sheffield which promises to be the biggest and boldest undertaking yet.

The city that was home to the first purpose-built wall when the Foundry opened over 20 years ago now has four walls added including the the Edge and ClimbingWorks.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67375

Swig - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Spot on. Close to my office in Rotherham. That massive hook that's in there would be ideal for route setting as well.
Robbie_Phillips - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I'd be interested to know what the criteria actually is to be a "National Performance Centre"? I can't find the doc on the BMC website (probably because it's not online). At the moment, EICA: Ratho is probably the only wall in the country capable of "comfortably" hosting a national event such as the YCS (because of the sheer number of competitors and spectators). Would the ability to host events such as that or European Cups and World Cups/Championships be a main point in the criteria?

If it is, then this place better have a floor space at least as big as Ratho otherwise they will be struggling to host such events.

Mr Plow on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:

From the brief description this place looks totally incpapable of being ether a host venue for an international comp or a training venue for a national squad.

Dave should stick to what he knows best building great punter walls.

I really hope there is no tax payers money in this.

And since when was climbing a possiblility in the next olympics!
Gambit - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News: Great, just what sheffield needs, another wall to get the winter queues down. climbed at Daves original pre Awsome walls in Liverpool. Top bloke, great walls look forward to them comming over to Sheffield.
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:

Hi Robbie

The BMC document is here- http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=972

Hosting European and World cups are not essential for the title of 'National Performance Centre'. With the building, knowledge and finance we have, we will do our best to mange a very large facility that will not become bankrupt.

Ratho's a fantastic facility but It's a shame it doesn't make a profit (from what I've heard).

Looking at your profile it would be great to have you on our side to help get this right.

All the best

Dave D.
In reply to Mr Plow:
> (In reply to Robbie_Phillips)

Hi Robbie

Hosting an international competition is not at the top of our agenda nor is it a requirement by the BMC to hold a title of 'National Performance Centre'. Saying this, if the finance became available to construct a wall outside like what happens the majority of the time in Europe then we have the space to do it.

Any advice that you would like to pass on in making this a decent training venue will be greatly appreciated. We have our own ideas but we're always willing to listen.

Sorry Olympics 2020.

Not a drop of Tax payers money is coming my way, just like the last three walls I've built.

Thanks for comment that I build 'great punter walls', appreciated.

Thanks for the comments and I hope this clears a few things up.

Dave D.

Tyler - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas: Awesome Walls:

Nice restrained reply, I'm astonished at all the negative comments about someone bulding a huge new wall - what's not to like?

Noew, if you could just sort out the grading at Stockport........
Big Steve - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas: Awesome Walls: What I would really like to see in a climbing centre are some good easier angled slabs. I really enjoy climbing on really thin slabs with tiny holds. Unfortunatley, nearly every wall I visit seem to only be interested in steep overhangs, anything else is just an after thought
Ramblin dave - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas: Awesome Walls:
Out of interest, what's in it for you to provide various stuff for the BMC and the GB Team and become a National Performance Centre rather than just providing high standard climbing and training facilities and being a good wall for wads to train at? Is it basically a publicity thing and a warm fuzzy glow of helping out top british climbers?

Good luck with it, in any case. More good walls is always better...
galpinos - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Tyler:

> Noew, if you could just sort out the grading at Stockport........

Before he does that could you swap the horrible resin fingerboard for a beastmaker? The current board kills my fingers.

It takes quite a bit of effort for me to psyche up for a fingerboard session and the fact that the holds will kill makes it even harder!

In reply to Dave Douglas:
> Sorry Olympics 2020

I have just corrected the news piece.

Alan
In reply to Tyler:
I have an idea about the grading that we will be putting into practice soon.

Dave D.
Frank the Husky - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to galpinos: Try not using it if it's causing such a problem. Why wreck your fingers, boss?
In reply to Ramblin dave:

The more I/we can help the BMC the stronger it will grow!

Dave D.
galpinos - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to The Vicar of Chinley:
> (In reply to galpinos) Try not using it if it's causing such a problem. Why wreck your fingers, boss?

Because I want stronger fingers? It's the skin that it makes sore, not my ligaments. The resin is rough and the holds slightly sharp, wood is much softer and kinder.

In reply to galpinos:

Noted!
galpinos - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas:
> (In reply to galpinos)
>
> Noted!

Awesome Walls:

Sweet!
Tyler - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas:

> I have an idea about the grading that we will be putting into practice soon.

That's good, obviously a minor gripe and as a regular it doen't matter but if I was on a one off visit some of the grades might spoil my day. Shouldn't be hard to fix, the staff know which ones are outrageously graded, they just don't get changed.
winhill - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Dave

If you can host the competitions, this is exciting news indeed.

The only problem with Ratho (which is a great facility) is the location.

As Robbie Phillips mentioned these are big events now, the YCS expanded to 300 competitors, which with the spectators means possibly 1,000 people (in practice not everyone brings 2 parents).

I don't think you need to be that large though, as Ratho managed to remain open for punters during the YCS and there was still floor space available. Hired tiered seating might be enough.

Also if Ratho car park fills up it's a bit of a walk to park elsewhere.

The BMC AYCs have decided Ratho is the only available venue for the YCS, if you could persuade them otherwise a few parents from the South would be extremely happy.
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winhill - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Mr Plow:
> (In reply to Robbie_Phillips)
>
> From the brief description this place looks totally incpapable of being ether a host venue for an international comp or a training venue for a national squad.
>
> Dave should stick to what he knows best building great punter walls.
>
> I really hope there is no tax payers money in this.
>
> And since when was climbing a possiblility in the next olympics!

Seriously, WTF?
Jonny2vests - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas: Awesome Walls:

Were there any locations under consideration that would have offered more than 15m? There's a lot of 15m walls within an hour of Sheffield you see...


Ahh, wait, the overhang is 15m, I see. So what height is the wall / longest route?

Good luck with your venture Dave.
McBirdy - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Hmm. I don't want to come across as all negative about this project, but:

"amazing potential for 16m routes" - oh, like half the height of Ratho routes then?

I may start a new thread just so that I can tell everyone how amazing Ratho is without hijacking this thread about your little English wall.



Jonny2vests - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to McBendy:

Where does it say that? It looks like you made something up and put it in quotes.
Shortarse.Crowley - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to McBendy: Grow up
McKEuan - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to McBendy:

McBendy if you love Ratho so much please go there and never come to Sheffield. As for this project! HELL YES! like the idea. ALthough if it doesn't have a decent kit shop and a cafe that does a strong brew i will be most dissapointed ;)
Lord_ash2000 - on 23 Aug 2012
Looks like it'll be an impressive centre. The Ratho of England? We'll have to wait and see. Unless you happen to own one of the other walls in Sheffield I can't see why this could be a bad thing regardless of what they use it for. I'm glad people are back to building big steep walls rather than just pandering to the 6a+ brigade. It's a bold step because everyone knows where the money is but it takes walls like this to progress the standard of British climbing. So all the best!
bigtuboflard - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

reading the supporting statement on the planning application, are we getting a climbing or cricket centre?!
JD84 - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests: From a post on the Facebook page "Floor to top is 16.5m, route length is 24.5m and overhang is 15m! Please remember, this is not the final design!"
Jonny2vests - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to JD84:

24.5m, that'll do. I just need to un-emigrate.
horsefeathers on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to McBendy: Routes at ratho aren't 32 metres. The tower is the highest wall in the arena and that's 28m, everything else is significantly less.
the flash - on 24 Aug 2012
thats funny to me the new design looks exactly the same shape as the foundry with the wings either side of the main overhang switched.........
Jonny2vests - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to horsefeathers:

And the tower is reasonably dull to climb. The competition wall at Ratho is prob similar height to the main bit on this new wall.

And it looks sod all like the Foundry to me.
Robert Durran - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to winhill:
> I don't think you need to be that large though, as Ratho managed to remain open for punters during the YCS and there was still floor space available.

Not just open but pretty quiet. I climbed as a punter on the main lead (Justice) wall the whole Saturday afternoon of the competition and had it largely to myself. Ratho easily absorbed this comp. A smaller venue with a suitable comp wall could certainly host it I would have thought.
deepsoup - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Swig:
> Close to my office in Rotherham.

Its in Rotherham? So how is that a "major new climbing centre in Sheffield" then? It's a climbing wall, not an airport. ;O)
Karl Wooffindin - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to deepsoup:

It is in Attercliffe. In Sheffield.
Robbie_Phillips - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

I was there too and it certainly wasn't quiet :P
jameshiggins - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Good on ya Awesome Walls! The pro-Ratho/anti-this-development crap makes my head hurt.

Now, if only Awesome Walls would come to Inverness!

Jim
Jon Stewart - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I think the popularity of different sorts of climbing in different places is weird. While indoor climbing in Sheffield seems to grow and grow, and Peak bouldering gets more and more popular, the Yorkshire crags seem neglected. It doesn't seem that climbing itself is getting more popular - just indoor climbing in Sheffield!?

Jonny2vests - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

I've been up there at various times and the comp wall is often quiet, which is nice, but you wonder how much longer the council will prop it up for. Maybe it's another WICC waiting to happen.

It's also gibbering cold in Winter.
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Robert Durran - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> I was there too and it certainly wasn't quiet :P

I may be thinking of the wrong comp. I think it may have been the European Youth one when the Justice Wall was pretty deserted.

Robert Durran - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> I've been up there at various times and the comp wall is often quiet, which is nice, but you wonder how much longer the council will prop it up for.

Having the whole new comp wall to yourself on a Monday evening is certainly great, but yes, it would be good to see it getting more use sometimes!

> It's also gibbering cold in Winter.

Man up then.

Jonny2vests - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]

> Man up then.

I can't. I'm scared.
MJ - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

It's also gibbering cold in Winter.

You could always change your name to jonny2jumpers.

:)
Robbie_Phillips - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: Granted there are times when it is a bit quiet but I was in there yesterday and I there must have been almost every line in use with queues forming on the two comp walls! It's not often it's like that but it's certainly not barren like some people make it out to be. If you were to house everyone in the arena not including staff on a normal evening in any other wall I think you'd find it very very cramped! I think because of the size of the arena it often gives the illusion of it being under-used. And I don't think Ratho is in any danger of being closed down, I have heard enough annual reports and been to enough staff/management meetings to know by now...
Paul B - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Dave Douglas: Awesome Walls:

Do you have any intention of putting your ideas anywhere for people to read/see and then comment on before you build?

Although it sounds interesting it'd be great if the new wall could cater well for training from the offset, some great ideas (massive campus boards for instance) turn out in reality to be a bit of a waste of space etc.

Also, whilst I can see a large roof maximising space and being a lot of fun, its barely relevant to almost anywhere!
Jonny2vests - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Paul B:
> (In reply to Dave Douglas) Awesome Walls:
>
> Do you have any intention of putting your ideas anywhere for people to read/see and then comment on before you build?


Like, say the Internet?
Paul B - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests: Personally I was hoping for a scale model with little people but sure, the internet would do.
zeekthefreak on 24 Aug 2012 - host86-147-118-96.range86-147.btcentralplus.com
In reply to McBendy: Well you do come across as negative, if you are so happy with Ratho just stay there and don't come down south. You won't be missed with an attitude like you have. Plus the routes will probably too hard for you!
zeekthefreak on 24 Aug 2012 - host86-147-118-96.range86-147.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Lord_ash2000: Totally agree it will be fantastic to have a first rate centre in the North of England we can then let Scotland have its independence!
buzby78 - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

Tower routes dull to climb, really? Have you tried the new routes on the front face? Classics I tell you...;)
Morgan Woods - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to Paul B:
> (In reply to Dave Douglas) Awesome Walls:
>
> Do you have any intention of putting your ideas anywhere for people to read/see and then comment on before you build?
>
> Although it sounds interesting it'd be great if the new wall could cater well for training from the offset, some great ideas (massive campus boards for instance) turn out in reality to be a bit of a waste of space etc.
>
> Also, whilst I can see a large roof maximising space and being a lot of fun, its barely relevant to almost anywhere!

Wall sounds good....and so does thinking about training. This french video shows a pretty good sloper type board set up:

http://www.vimeo.com/9123280

look quite handy and a bit more inclusive then just having a fingerboard.


And large roofs not relevant!!! Sacrilege!!!! get yourself to any number of sport crags.
Jonny2vests - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to buzby78:

Last time I was there it was all samey vertical top ropes. Where's the fun in that?
Robert Durran - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to buzby78:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Tower routes dull to climb, really? Have you tried the new routes on the front face? Classics I tell you...;)

The Tower regularly sports some real classics, but I suspect they are often overlooked due to their remote location and long approach walk.

buzby78 - on 25 Aug 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Very true, their remote location and vertical nature often puts many a modern day climber off. However, those that take on the challenge of walking that extra bit further will be rewarded with climbs very reminiscent of Mother Careys Kitchen or the Cromlech, incredible views from the top too!
In reply to Paul B:

Hi Paul

Thanks for your comments and views.

The quick answer to your question - 'Do you have any intention of putting your ideas anywhere for people to read/see and then comment on before you build?' is no. We will be adding to our blog and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/AwesomeWallsSheffield as we build.

I feel that after a few years of running commercial climbing centres plus having the good fortune of some very experienced competition climbers/coaches and liaising with the BMC competition officer we should hopefully be able to build a climbing centre that caters for all with the good fortune of helping English competition climbers as well.

If you (or any one else) would like to come on board with positive enthusiasm to help create this then please email me.

My end goal is not to have a national title but to build a centre that I'm proud of that gets used by many people of many standards. If we can aim to be of a national standard then why shouldn't we?

All the best,

Dave Douglas
AWCC
http://www.awesomewalls.co
maggiej - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Robbie_Phillips: Thought Sunderland was big enough?
maggiej - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to winhill: Also Ratho has a severe problem with public transport for international events. Nothing wrong with splitting the events between the two venues. Its a long way to Ratho from the South!

maggiej - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to McBendy: Many of the European venues are not as high for example Annecy and Kranj. Its about angles and route setting.
maggiej - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Robbie_Phillips: "not often", hardly ever!
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alasdair19 on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Robbie_Phillips: very pleased that the centre is making enough money. Though i think about 90% of the capital was written of no thanks to bank of scotland!
Guy Atkinson - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:
I don't know how this is going to be the largest wall in England when it barely looks half the size of the Reach...?

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