/ Beginner trad in central Scotland

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
dougp87 - on 23 Aug 2012
HI

I am looking for advice on where would be the best place to learn how to trad climb at a low (V.diff and S) level.

I have done bit of seconding on some harder (VS / HVS) routes around most of the crags local to Glasgow but there don't seem to be man lower end routes.

I really just want to put in plenty of miles on V.diff to begin. Any suggestions where the best place to start near the central belt is?

Cheers
professionalwreckhead - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to dougp87:

What about Neilston Quarry, The Whangie or even Dumyat?

If you don't mind a couple of hours drive, Polldubh will keep you busy on multipitch stuff for weeks.

Do you mean learning to lead climb, or just learning to climb generally? Since if learning to lead, Severe is a bit of a jump (in my opinion anyway)
dougp87 - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to professionalwreckhead: Cheers for the reply. I mean learning to lead. Already done a few V.diffs on a mates gear and found the climbing very easy. Just trying to get plenty of practice at placing gear.
Taurig - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to dougp87:

I'll admit I've not started to lead climb yet, but I enjoy the Quadrocks and there's a fair few lower end climbs that could be worth a look, cracks and such.
Kevin Woods - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to dougp87: I saw you have already been to the Whangie. I think it would be alright, of course it's a bit loose but would probably be ok.

V. Diff always seems like an akward grade at the single pitch outcrops (at least around here?) They're usually a bit scrappy. Raising the grade usually gives cleaner rock.

Quadrocks is good, lots of Diff-Severe on rock that is similar to the Whangie and solid.

If you raise the grade a little, Craigmore is best in the VS-E1 range.

I think Dunglass is (generally) scrappy easy routes and death-on-a-stick hard routes. Haven't done so much there but have walked around it a fair bit.

And I'd recommend Auchinstarry, too. Again, better VS/HVS to the mid E-grades. But there are some Diff/V.Diff level that are good.

Off topic, anyone else have a mental block about the easy car park crag routes at Auchinstarry? Scream, Anarchist, etc.
aln - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to professionalwreckhead:

Don't think I'd reccommend Dumyat to anyone, especially a beginner. The rock is loose all over, some of it on a major scale.
Eric9Points - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to dougp87:

Loudon Hill, loads of Vdiffs and severes.

Craig y Barns at Dunkeld.

Mark Bull - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to dougp87:

Hawkcraig (Aberdour) has a reasonable selection of VDiffs and Severes: most of them are worth climbing and well protected.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Mark Bull - on 24 Aug 2012
In reply to Kevin Woods:


> And I'd recommend Auchinstarry, too. Again, better VS/HVS to the mid E-grades. But there are some Diff/V.Diff level that are good.

Unfortunately several of the easy routes (Access Route, Tar, Anarchist) are now shorter, dirtier, looser and less well protected thanks to the council's latest "stabilisation" efforts.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.