UKC

After beta re Biceps:

Best ropes - 80m single or 60m twins
Would December be ok if sunny and dry - is it busy at that time?
Can the crux 7a pitch be bypasssed by aid if required for my partner?
Do people carry water
I have read it is a walk off rather than abseil - trainers required?
How far is Riglos from Barcalona?

Cheers any other info much appreciated.

In reply to marky: Loads of info in here.....
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4614

In reply to marky:

It'd be difficult to rap off, so a 50m single would do. I must admit we took 2x50m half ropes, but only really because that's what we had. I think as far as the 80m single is concerned, I'd hate to be rapping down that thing hoping that 40m would reach... if you see what I mean.

The 7a pitch is just a crimpy affair, nothing like the main pitches. I suppose you could aid it.

Take some water.

It's most definitely a walk off. The evening before we did it, Mrs J went for a run and put our trainers and a bottle of water at the top. Luxury.

Q Best ropes - 80m single or 60m twins

one 60m single would be fine, out of those 2, i'd take the 80.

Q Can the crux 7a pitch be bypasssed by aid if required for my partner?

The hard move is just below the belay so dogging/ hauling should be easy. The bolts are not close enough for direct aid.

Q Do people carry water.

Most would - 0.5L could be ok if you start at dawn and get it finished before it gets warm, take lots if you are (or want to be!) slow.

QI have read it is a walk off rather than abseil - trainers required?

Better with trainers, but perfectly do-able without if the route is at your limit, its not too far.





Make sure you both take prussics, slings and have the ability to use them while danging and spinning in space in one of the most awesome situations you'll ever get into. (In reality, few would fall off, as it would be far more sensible to just rest on a bolt for a bit, then carry on -all the moves near the top are very easy in isolation).

In reply to marky: Bump - what do people think to December?

In reply to marky: Winter can be perfect. It is a sunny aspect so it can be too hot in summer. No seepage. The descent is a little complex folllowing cairns over the back. We were defeated by snow on the first attempt but that is unusual! Go for it, it's brilliant!

In reply to marky:

Link the first two pitches Mark, put a long draw as it moves left. The route gets 6c+ in new guide which is probably a bit harsh!

Its amazing. One of best sport routes i have even done, and certainly in top 10 routes ever.

In reply to Steve Crowe: Would an 80m single rope be ok if we had to bail?

In reply to marky:

WE walked off and I did it in birkenstocks. I don't think an 80m rope is necessary. I WOULD DEFINATELY take water. it takes about 3 hours to drive from Barca IIRC. stay off the toll roads - thems expensiveeeee!

we went in sept/oct and weather was still warm. don't know about Dec, might be a bit rainy??

In reply to marky:

Just remembered, take helmets. Top pitches are steep so its fine, but stood at bottom and first few pitches were seeing stuff fall. Water not essential if quick, me and Ant didn't bother, in fact, we didn't take a bag either, as if on back, would be a pain on top pitches. Take a few chic bars in pockets. Maybe a camel back at most on back.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Oh and get there early unless you want to be slowed down by parties ahead having epics!

In reply to marky:

FWIW:

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/OLD-DOGS-NEW-TRICKS-RIGLOS-MARCH-2012/t11382n.h...

In reply to marky:

Single 60m is fine.

It's unlikely that you will need to ab off but prussics essential incase thwart second falls high up. Even that is unlikely, the most likely event on the steeper top pitches is clipping in to a bolt for a rest now and then! Top tip: start very early!

In reply to SteveSBlake:

Thanks for that link! Very useful, off in feb to do it. Good to see Bob cranking too, his Internal Combustion is one of my all time favourite routes.

Woody