UKC

Big thanks to Biscuit, AJM, SeanKenny, Nomics4Sale and Grubes for filling in for me the last couple of months. Forgive me if I have missed anything big, I’ve just skimmed through the last few weeks.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (283) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=516923
Posters:
Sankey – Pembroke is my favourite trad place in the UK. Just noticed Cinque Torre in there as well, possible my favourite all round crag in the world! 6 Pitch HVS is a good effort.
Joughton – Wow dude you have a beefy logbook now, to the point where I glance over everything less than E4. I’m jealous of Bloody Sunday, my mate will be jealous of High Plains. Well done on another E5, and consistent 5.12b onsights! It’s cool to see you improve steadily with no signs of plateuing just yet.
SeanKenny – Have a good time and climb hard.
Eagle River – Hope you get your 7b+ soon mate. I wonder if you’ve been reading Dave Mac’s blog, some hardcore redpointing perseverance there!
Grubes – Looks like you’ve been pretty active in different places, notably the Almscliff initiation! Couldn’t help notice your first UK 7a this week. Congrats mate.
Si_dH – Good to see another 7b and an E3 onsight mates. Looks like you’re getting good volume of training in too.
Maria85 – Welcome Maria. All those big multipitches at tough grades sound awesome. Wow that’s a lot of goals. Looking forward to seeing you achieve them in coming months. About fear of falling, the “never say take” motto helps me personally.
MrChewey – Seamstress is a great intro to slate, glad you like it. Well done falling off so much as well. It’s always good to just go for it on hard efforts.
Nomics4Sale – Good to see such a positive post, and congrats on your first E1! Having a climbing partner dragging you up E4s sounds ideal as well.
Ian Bell – Strong performance on sport mate. Don’t hold back though, if you can top rope 7a+ you can lead it!
Kevster – Nice logbook dude, congrats on all those classics at Cromlech and Millstone (and Goose Creature).
Biscuit – 6b+ onsight in trainers is pretty good! I like your motivation with the fat scales; I’ll try to feed off that as I need to get a sustainable diet together now.
Mattrm – You seem to be fitting a lot of activity in. Hope to see you get back under 12 stone soon mate.
Hokkyokusei – You’ve been really consistent up till now. Hopefully you can achieve the running and climbing centre goals too.
Jimmy Kay – Hope you feel back to full strength again soon.
NMN – I often find a change of scenery a good excuse to go for an extra run. Anyway hope you find motivation from somewhere.
Pebbles – That’s a very healthy logbook, lots of classics on gritstone. Congrats on the crucifix.
Ayuplass – You chose quite an exciting route to get back on HS! Good work. I guess you could try to define your goals and then people will offer specific advice. I found sport climbing really helpful as it gave me much more confidence in movement outdoors which helped my trad climbing. Depending on how much motivation you’ve been drumming up, I recommend circuits on a bouldering wall. Generally, about 30 moves or so you’re really pumped, then a few minutes rest. You improve fast, but it’s boring (until you get addicted to it).
Leon – Great work on those E1/2s and Font 7as mate. Strong. BTW you mentioned mantles, but you seemed to describe rockovers (something I can relate to as standing up on one foot often feels precarious on a slab).
Curious Yellow – Maybe you needed the rest after a duff couple of weeks previous.
Richard Popp – Congrats on being clear for so long. Agree with grubes – try a 7a? 18 routes is pretty good.
Quiddity – It’s nice to read what you’ve been up to after ticking FT way back. That’s some great volume indoors.
AJM – Congrats on your 7bs and 7b+s! Great work.
IainRUK – Congratulations on your marathon result Iain, I guess you stayed with Matt Roberts for most of the race? Strong times.
Ali – Hope you smash Want Out soon. Well done on getting consistent variety of training in.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel, I caught up on Dave's blog this weekend. I wish it was just a fresh breeze separating me from what is presumably a 9a+......

Goals: 7b+ by end of 2012

Wed: Indoor bouldering - felt strong but tweaked a pulley in my index finger getting carried away on V7s.

So this week has been a bit of an anti-climax after last Sunday's antics on Frankie comes to Kilnsey. Felt pretty beaten up after that day as I effectively climbed the hardest route I've ever tried 4 times in one day, trying really hard each go. Iced my elbows on tues and did my elbows and finger on fri and sat. Seems I haven't missed the best conditions by being injured this weekend and I'm optimistic that with a bit of careful climbing and icing this finger injury should be fine in a couple of weeks. Got a string of non-climbing weekends coming up which is a bit annoying but I just need to keep ticking over with mid-week sessions until I can get out again. Have a couple of holiday days to take so could use them for a strategic mid-week crag day if it ever stops raining.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

True, and this is partly what confuses me. I guess the traditional mantle is both hands on ledge, press-up on arms, foot-up, rock over & up on foot (so still a rock over in there) to standing position.

But I've been on the following routes this year that are all described as crux mantles in the rockfax guide that I didn't mantle in the traditional sense:

Erb -for me this is one foot-up in line with crack. rock over & stand whilst search out the good hold all the while I stand-up with hands on nothing.

Wall end slab direct -ok I backed-off this but it seems to be a rock over on the reasonable foothold to the right using nothing but poor sloprers for hands.

Telli -fell off first go trying to mantle as per the traditional way but for me in the end it was a rock over with nothing for the hands.

I don't see how any of the above could be mantle'd in the traditional sense, especially Telli. So I'm guessing mantle, to me, quite often means rockover with no hands. Am I missing something?

In reply to Daniel Heath:
ps welcome back. how was the trip?

In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: First e3(failed)
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth(tick). Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 2(94)
Fat %: ??
Focus: Maintenance

Mon: Fell off Telli.
Tue: Nothing.
Wed: Weights. Core.
Thu: ARC. 4x4(v3,v3,v3,v3). Repeaters.
Fri: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core.
Sat: VIR @ Stockport (8@V5, 4@V6, 0@V7/V8).
Sun: Nothing.

Fell off my first e3 attempt messing about, not being quite how to mantle. Was pretty straightforward when done "properly". Feel like I failed on TPS. On the positive it gave me a few more falls for the year & I "think" I've learnt something about how to approach this type of move in future.

Felt weak on Thursday, no excuses so must be weak.

Stockport showed me that my bouldering technique has definately deteriorated, found myself having to work out seqeunces I would previously have dropped into immediately (I think). Guessing this is due to hardly any hard bouldering over the last two or three months. Need to focus on this, especially as I'll probably be concentrating on bouldering come september.

Off on family holiday for two weeks now so no posts for a while from me. Hope you lot have some good weather over here.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers and welcome back dan. It felt good to bag it.

STG (end of Nov):
7a sport in UK - TICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YYFY got a f*cker! 7a in a day, GET IN ... (i may be a little bit happy about this)
7a in Chorro
Onsight 6c in Chorro
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Fit club yorkshire meet? - I ended up having a 1 man meet. Fell through due to shocking forecasts, tweaky fingers and conditions reports. I went though read on
Wall a a couple of times - Hit the works once.

M: Works session - Hard work. really good session.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Holmfirth. Brief session repeating stuff.
F: Rest
S: Sport climbing at the UK sport climbing Mecca of malham. The conditions reports were pretty shocking. Rumour was rose coronary was dry so I thought I would go for it. Got there and it was completely out ..
I got on consenting adults instead.
TR 1 got all the moves working them individually.
TR 2 refined the moves and linked most of the moves. If you know the moves get on lead ..
RP1 everything felt foreign up to bolt two. Bottled the crux move.
RP2 Climbed smoothly to the crux and bottled it again. Clip sticked the third bolt and did the crux first time. I did the crux move twice and made sure I was getting the side pull. Came down and rested.
RP3 Nailed it felt easy and felt good to complete.
S: Holmfirth breif session. Got a work out on pumpy traverses.

Next Weeks goals:
Get out on rock.
Limestone?
Holmfirth traverse link
Holmfirth filming
Wall session

What a week. I moved on to the next circuits at the works and got some too which felt good.
I had a quick session at holmfirth thursday and got very close to a 6B+ I have been working
Then Saturday came. Low psyche. Almost could not be arsed. Conditions reports suck. Forecast was shit. Everything was against me. But I went and I got the tick I now have my sights on a 7a+ maybe even get on a 7b ... would be interesting to get on a 7b and see how it feels. I got on a 7b in spain and it felt nails did not even get near the crux. I am interested to find one that suits my style, I guess its back to the cat walk?

In reply to grubes:

Well done Luke, that's ace. Consenting isn't a push over either. If you like that style at Malham then there is loads to go at. Frankenstein and free and even easier at 7a+ could be suitable, although of the two F&EE is definitely harder, but nearly always dry.

Nice one.

In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers mate.
For got to say first uk 7a and first 7a in a day and only my second 7a.

I am tempted to give free and even easier a go also rated pg. psyched for malham now just need a belayer who has not done everything in their grade on the catwalk

In reply to grubes:

Rated PG is awful. Horrible polish for the first 3m. F&EE will feel hard but it's really sequency so feels much nicer when you know the route.

I'm excited for you, I worked my way through 7a to 7b pretty exclusively at Malham and enjoyed every route.

In reply to leon:
For what its worth I think Erb is more of a rockover than a mantle. And Im sure it has holds I think Telli was a mantle in my understanding of what that means, but it was ages ago I did it. I think a lot of mantles really involve mantling until you can reach a hold, rather than until you can completely stand up in balance. Not done Wall End Slab Direct.

In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Hope you had a good trip. Are you back in the midlands and climbing now?

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 2**
- Tick off a good list of E2s or harder trad including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, Darius, The Strand, Foil (E3), Grond**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others **failed - Mad Dogs and Englishmen, succeeded - Foil**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **for progress see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 1*7a+, 1*7b, 1*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013): - Tick 7c in France or Spain - Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: Rest
T: Routes at Alter Rock. Good session, managed to get myself quite pumped. Repeated a couple of 7a+s (one with a rest) and did a (hard) 6c+, 6c, 6b+ and a couple of 6bs. Also did a bit of bouldering.
W: Decent fingerboard workout. Felt stronger than usual on two finger pockets, which was nice. Managed 8-10 second hangs on smallest flat 2-finger pockets with middle two, the slightly bigger ones with front two, and back-2 pockets with back 2.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did some new problems. They're hard this week!
F: Managed 95 chin ups in 10 minutes.
S: Rest.
S: Cheedale, Embankment. Dogged then led Prawnography to warm up, quite nice. It was raining quite hard and got wet at the top by the second ascent, which made things a bit interesting. We were going to head to the wall and actually finished packing our bags and ate all our food before the sun came out. We then stayed, and got on Stone the Loach (7c) on top rope to work the moves. It has an initial fiddly wall followed by a powerful cross-through off an undercut, a couple of reachy thin moves to reach a break, then about 5-6 powerful steep moves to reach a good hold and easier (prob F6b+ish) ground to the top. Overall its probably about V5 in to F7b after the initial wall. I had tried it once before on a top rope, but not been able to do the crux and not linked any of the other moves. Today I managed to do the crux, managed a link from below the crux to past the first (and hardest) of the steep pulls above, and another link from immediately post-crux to the top. Pleased with this progress. Next visit I'll get on lead and think I should be able to do it in two links. Will probably take another visit to tick it but you never know. Definitely feels do-able anyway

Overall a pretty good training week and pretty pleased with progress on Stone. Hoping to get back to it next Sunday.

Si

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for doing the stats Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

M - 3.39m hills, 1,949ft.
T - 3.62m hills, 2,043ft.
W - 3.99m trail run, 568ft.
T - 4.10m hills, 2,220ft.
F - 7.02m hills, 2,771ft.
S - rest.
S - 7.45m trail run, 781ft.

A good week. It is a shame that it is so difficult to get good weeks unless a race is imminent. I have moved Ben Nevis to STG because it is next weekend. I have added MTG of sub 40 min 10km and entered Percy Pud for this. I have never done a road race but in term time I find myself at a gym with about 40 mins to spare on Mondays and so do a bit on the treadmill, I have been quite pleased with treadmill times and so would quite like to (try to) put a sub 40 min 10km down in a race. I'm not sure whether I want to do the hpm now (as it seems to be the only longer race that appeals) but clearly won't get through the machinations of the draw that favours past competitors and locals anyway.

In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel

Not a good week for me...
Last week's goals:
- Eye on S ridge integrale of Ag. Moine for the next couple of days. - Bailed on this after a 500m walk to the train station! Killer heat. Did day climbs instead.
- 6a+ will happen this week! - yes
- 20km goal again. - didn't run at all.
- Either Frendo Spur or Dent du Geant over the weekend. - this is meaning the next couple of days, heading for the dent tomorrow.

M: Nada - walked to train station, sweated, walked back, ate ice cream.
T: Did cocher-cochon near the Brevent, 8 pitches up to 6a. Led most. Good day, moved fairly fast too
W: Walked up to Papillons Arete from the mid station, scrambled to start of route. As we were gearing up one of the party ahead of us had a fatal fall after his rope presumably cut on a sharp edge. After getting involved in the rescue, we bailed, feeling more than a little shocked, plus one of our ropes was in the heli. Spent the afternoon giving witness reports and drinking beer. Not a good day. Head in a bit of a mess about it still.
T: nothing.
F: Quick fingerboard and leg strength session, cut short when the pull up bar fell on my head for the nth time. Giving up on fingerboard until have a better doorway.
S: Quick cragging session, did 1x 6a+, messed up the first couple of moves but lowered and did it ok 2nd go, 2nd bolt was still clipped though. Rest onsight. 2nd 1x5b before rappeling in rain.
S: Did the Index, 3 hours climbing time, 6 pitches of 4 and 5. Led most. Good to finally get this ticked, cruisy day grades wise though was under time pressure before work.

This weeks goals:
- Dent du Geant tomorrow, followed by 2 more days of fun on something or other. Mate visiting so girly climbing time.
- Actually run again towards the end of the week.
- Go take some falls if I can get my head around it. After Papillons, this may be pushed back to the autumn when I can get indoors, feel safer then (irrational I know).

In reply to maria85: How are you feeling now? That must have been pretty difficult. You did the right thing helping out - focus on that.

Kelvin

In reply to Daniel Heath: Had a minute on him at one point..

m: 50 mile 7000ft ascent road ride pyrenees cols. pm: 6.5 mile trail run to refuge
t: am: 10.1 mile run from refuge up 2600m peak, 1000m ascent. pm: 4.5 mile trail run.
w: 10.1 mile trail run
t: lunch: 5.4 mile trail run. pm: 9.1 mile road run. eve: 15 mile road ride
f: lunch: 5.4 mile trail run. pm: 7.3 mile trail run.
s: am: 13 mile trail run pm: 40 mile road ride.
s: 83 miles, 7000ft ascent road ride. Wild Wales Challenge. Just sub 6hours or so. Eve: 5 mile trail run

In reply to Daniel Heath: Nice to have you back Daniel - not that the others haven't been great! I think biscuit will have us all on fat scales soon, I don't know whether that's depressing or not but we'll all be fitter for it.

I'd like to lead Seamstress - not led VS yet (have done 4c tho) and apart from one bit were you stand on a spike that was sore under foot, it all felt pretty easy. Not been running since the Alps - this has been down to a burst lead pipe in the cellar that was finally sorted on Friday. Otherwise it's felt like a good week on the climbing front.

Weight - 81.4kg
Body fat - 33.4% Pretty sure scales read poorly but consistently - need some of biscuits!

Goal - 6a lead this year.

M - Boulder room with new intent. Did a few problems in the V0 bracket and then got one move from the top of a V2 without using the side wall like most do. Need to man up from there but I'm nervous on slopers. Realised the V0 5a I hadn't done was actually a V1 and managed that third go. Tried what I then assumed was the 5a but found it nails but I was on another V2. Too hard for me but I'm having a go and it all feels achievable. Into the main room and shot up the overhanging 5+ on a top rope which I'd not quite managed last week - one to lead at some point.
T - Fingers sore, rested.
W - Did about 10 problems, then had a go at some V2 and 3s - almost made a 45deg V2, very juggy but got pumped two holds from the top. That will go soon. Managing to hold moves, just need to keep going for it. Then did a English 4c problem on the vertical wall 5 x 2 times up and down - hopefully I'll get stronger and it's about the right grade for my trad level.
T - Plumbing!
F - Water board round and sorting the plumbing before packing for the Peak.
S - Drive to the Peak, Edale. On the wine with three ladies by 11.30am and then a 3/4hr walk and back to the pub. 5 1/2hrs walking all in.
S - Rained on and off, so dropped the ladies at the station at 2pm and headed home instead of Stanage. Pinnacle boulder room and did a warmup before doing 4 x 4 up and down on the V0 4c vertical problem which is 15m up and 15m down each time. Worked some fingery, stretchy moves on a V3 too, latching the first 4 hand moves quite easily by the end.

Being solid at V1 is a long way off but really happy with the progress this week. Foot placement on the 4c is getting a lot better even when I'm tired. I just need to keep building up mileage. Need to get in the main room and start leading again soon but enjoying the boulder room.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan, nice to see you back.

Grubes - Sorry ? Did you do something this week ? I may have missed it Well done mate. I meant to draw your attention to these climbs for your next trip here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=82181
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=113566

They're excellent wall climbs and i am sure you'll get them in a day !

Eagle River - Good to see the optimism. You get as many finger tweaks as i do.

Maria :0( Not much more to say i guess. Get back to it when you're ready.

Poo week for me - no that's not a typo. Work and daughter's birthday have eaten all my time and energy.

Body fat 11% average - DONE - at least that's something
Routes - 1 session. ISH - lots of routes done this week averaging maybe 10 a day but mostly 5-6a+ standard with clients. One decent top rope today with a 6c done.
PE circuits - 1 session - FAIL
Aerocap - 3 - FAIL done 1
Core - 3 - FAIL
Run - 3 - FAIL done 1
Complexes - 3 - FAIL

SO not great but small packed lunches at work with lots of figs ( got a massive fig tree in garden so have an abundance of them ) and other fruit have seen more fat loss and a weekly average of 10.7% despite a McDonald's pig out mid week.

The weather is the killer at the moment. Obviously i am working at crags in the shade but it's still in the high 30's and i get home and just feel like collapsing in a cold bath and going to bed. I've even had access to a board all week and not used it.

I will do better this week.

Targets ( in order of importance ):

Aerocap - 3
PE circuits - 2
Core - 3
Complexes - 3
body fat - maintain an average starting with 10

I still have lots of climbing to do this week with clients so at least i am getting the mileage in. I used to charge up routes to set them up for clients but now i am being a bit more selfish and am using them to hone technique whilst claiming i am doing a coaching demo. No running to save energy.

Off to bed now.

In reply to mrchewy:
It was, kind of thankful that I only heard the fall and didn't see him bounce 200m... would have been a lot more traumatic afterwards. Feeling a little better now we have a clearer idea of what happened to cause it, was a genuine accident though and he was very experienced which doesn't make you feel too confident about your own safety.
Hearing that anyone has been killed in the hills is sad, being there is much much worse, even if you don't know the person involved.

In reply to grubes:
I actually got out again today when the weather improved so second session at holmfirth in a day.
Holmfirth traverse link - dropped last move twice
Holmfirth filming - got some stuff filmed not enough to put a video together though

Cheers biscuit

In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers mate, good to have you back and I hope you had a great trip. Fair warning for your mate about High Plains Drifter, I found it really hard! Obviously this doesn't mean your mate will but it has a really powerful crux so tell him to get strong fingers! You will crush Bloody Sunday though, it's not a hard E4 and there's loads of rests.

Positives from this week are the volume of climbing I've done, and the fact that I've got stuff done outside, rather than the actual difficulty of the climbing.

Sun eve - played 'song on, song off'. Basically I traverse round on my little board on my smallest holds for the length of a song, then rest for the duration of the next. I set Spotify for shuffle, but things got a bit too pumpy when Stairway to Heaven came on.
Mon - rest
Tue - City Bloc bouldering, up to V7, some V6s flashed. Haven't bouldered properly indoors for a while so I felt weak but like I was getting stronger.
Wed - Climbing at MCC. Started off doing some bouldering for an hour, flashing a V6 but falling off a V4 so pretty mixed really. Onsighted a 7c in the big corner after, which I was really pleased with, as comp qualifiers are never harder than 7c.
Thurs - rest
Fri - family day at Burbage, warmed up leading Knight's Move, a nice HVS, before attempting to onsight Arms Blanche. I managed to pull round the roof and get my heel on to mantel but didn't really commit. I lost my balance and swung off, the cam at the back of the roof ripped and I ended up level with Dad - thankyou side runners! I followed Dad up Long Tall Sally before finishing the day leading The Sentinel, actually my first grit E2.
Sat - rest
Sun - Climbing at Dinbren. Followed Dad up an E1 to warm up before attempting Climb High onsight. Yet another route failed due to lack of mantelling skill, must improve... Dad lead another E2 and I led an E3 to finish.

Cheers, Jake

In reply to Joughton: I'd also like to add that I started writing a blog, which is basically just like my Fit Club posts but in a bit more detail, as well as pictures and a greater focus on my climbing rather than my training. At the moment I've only done two posts - trip reports from Canada and Pembroke - but I'll be updating it regularly after each day out climbing. If anyone's interested go to

jakeoughtonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk

I'd appreciate it if you gave it a read as well as giving some feedback!

Cheers, Jake

In reply to maria85: Sad times. Experience counts for nothing when chance enters the equation like that but hearing him fall must and will remain to be, for quite a while, an unsettling episode. I heard a woman fall on Main Wall in the Pass a couple of months back, she was on the pitch below me. She 'only' broke her ankles but hearing her hit the rocks wasn't too great and I still had two pitches to climb to get off the route. I can still hear the screams clearly if I think about it.
It really has focused my mind on thinking about every step.

In reply to Joughton: I'll have a read chap - and welcome to the world of blogging! Only been at it myself this year and it's funny how it's hooked me up with people I didn't know too well before.
There's a few bloggers in fit club.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Good to see you back Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs +1 lbs

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Stretches and exercise
T - 5k run
F - DIY
S - Rest
S - 1hr bouldering

Didn't get much done this week. Got a run in and a bit of bouldering in down Ogmore. My project there hinges on two small crimps. Which I can't even hang off. So I think the issue there is mainly finger strength. Think I might restructure my goals a bit, as I'm getting a better idea of the specific things I need to do to improve. Also not sure if the trad goals are going to be doable in the short term. DIY stuff is going to get in the way again for a little while. Be worth it as then the house will be done.

In reply to Joughton:

Looking forward to reading about your exploits. I imagine it'll be the source for psyche for many of us.

In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan, Cinque Torre is great, am one route short of ticking the guidebook list of classic multi-pitch routes there now, the misisng one "Finlandia" being the hardest, around 6b/b+ but seems doable having climbed single pitch at this grade there.

Slightly quiet week due to a weekend in Norfolk which normally curtails any cranking, but at least started getting back to the walls again (it's been the weather for it!)

M:
T: Matrix to 6a+ (have decided to only spend time on at least slightly overhanging problems/routes when at the wall from now onwards)
W: Run 4.6 miles (sore legs, been a while!)
T:
F:
S:Biked 10 miles
S:
M: Climbing works, steep problems to 6a ish

STG: Get back into bouldering, trips to wall and outdoor circuits

MTG: Walnut Traverse at Birchen / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet

(VLTG: 7a Sport - can't see a route to this yet, managing 6b ish o/s but only after a fair few days on to get head back, e.g. end of a sport climbing holiday. Not climbing on a rope often enough due to partners/vague lack of quality/inspiration at these grades in UK,and would also need to find and commit to some red-point projects)

10 more 7a (5/14)
2x7a+ (1/2)
1x7b

Hi

Short post for me.

T - WW bouldring. Got 1st or 2nd go 3 or 4 of the V3-V4 problems. Felt a bit weak but good that its not all gone. Footwork is better from outside.

Bank holiday weekend - went to Cornwall. Climbed one VS (very nice) but other than that no climbing. great weekend though despite the weather

no outdoors this coming weekend then a couple of trips outside then Kalymnos. Only 3.5 weeks to go now so psyche is growing.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Daniel, seems that you have been doing some quick homework on us all - logbooks! I have a few more routes to add now too.

Seems that some great sadness and catastrophies have happened to some close to home climbers recently. Be carefull and sensible out there please.

On a more cheery note,
The north wales weekend was binned, and replaced with a swanage 2 day jolly. Weather held and Yay! Kept up the good work with 2 E2's OS and RP 7b. All good fun. Will post today now as it seems better to fit in with the week.

Tues: Indoors - didn't get on the hard reds. Steady volume evening.
Sunday: Swanage - Finale groove, Buccaneer and Gypsy all led OS. Pleased with being steady on the E2s. Did a couple of other routes too 2nd.
Monday: Winspit - 7a and 7b clean (Avenging the haswell). Good to tick off ATH after so many it'll go next times and should have but ddn't. Got it 2nd try. Did a few other routes too.


So ambitions:
This week, indoors once (maybe twice). No climbing this weekend.

short term - Lundy in 2 weeks.
Mid term - Pull finger out on 7c & keep tying in on the E2s & 3s

Cheers, Kev

In reply to Kevster:
Nice one Sounds like a worth while trip.

In reply to Joughton:

Bloody hell jake I got tired just reading all that
Sounds like a good week.

What did you think of city bloc. I have not been in ages.
The problems were brilliant last time I went but the venue is a bit grim

In reply to biscuit:

Nice one cheers Mate. They both look good. I will have the clip stick with me so no excuse for me not to push it. I am getting more inclined to look at car hire.


Its still mileage think of it as training. you are doing lots of routes with in your limit but it will still be a work out without the risk of injury.

Exactly its all mileage. 10routes aday is still a work out even if it is well within your limits.

In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan!

Grubes - nice work on Consenting! I've still not lead it, and don't really have any intention of doing so (unless absolutely everything else is wet...) as I think its horrid, so top marks for beating the polish. Agree with Eagle River about Frankinstein and FAEE being good bets - I seem to remember Frankenstein feeling quite soft, whereas FAEE takes abit more working out. Must get up to Malham in autumn (if conditions are climable) as have a date with Something Stupid...

Jake - loving the 'song on/song off' routine - maybe you need to rethink your spotify playlist though?!

Maria85 - bad news Hope you're ok -focus on being outside in the mountains and enjoy that.


Goals (til end 2012)
STG (summer/autumn) - onsight 6c, finish Want Out (7b), Empire of the Sun (7b), Something Stupid (7b)

MTG (2013) - onsight E2, 7c pyramid

Going to run slightly into this week due to the bank holiday.

M - Run - ~40mins up to and through Richmond Park - felt ok at start but flagged towards end due to lack of fuel
T - 15min core
W - nothing
T - Bouldering at the Arch - good session. Finished in the tunnel getting very pumped very quickly on the 7a - definite lack of power endurance.
F - nothing
S - Orienteering - Guildford City Race. 8.9km (plus a bit for route choice) plus 1.3km to the start which I ended up running having not seen the final details which stated it was a 25min walk... Found it pretty hard keeping a decent pace going and made a few silly navigation errors which threw me a bit. 66mins, 6th on women's open.
S - Having worked out at last minute that I could actually get away for two days of theweekend as wasn't working headed down to Portland to meet up with Quiddity and Cider Yellow. Warmed up on Quality Family Day (5), onsighted a 6b (can't remember what its called - to the right of Live by the Sword) then jumped on Want Out. Fortnuately for me, another guy was working it and had put the clips in, which saved me the nightmare job of putting them up. Decided to get on lead (no choice really as rope not up!) and have a bolt to bolt go to remember the moves. Managed to work through up to the top, where my sequence didn't seem to work so well...or at all. Had quite a few attempts trying to work it out and manged to latch the jug over the roof a couple of times. Had a rest then got on redpoint. Was feeling really psyched and quite positive about being able to do it, but messed my sequence up quite low down (just before crux). Then spent a while pulling on the nasty crux holds trying to do the crux move without having my leg behind the rope before getting grumpy and deciding to take the risk of leg being behind rope (note: issue is as its overhanging rope hangs out from rock, as my waist is at the bolt for the move, even if I were to fall with my leg behind, the absolute worse that could happen would be a bi of rope burn - willing o rrisk that so I can acttually do the move). Climbed through crux but got stuck again on top section - felt tired on the moves (horrible flat opposing sidepulls into a semi knee-bar with a throw to a far-away jug) and ended up pulling through and stripping it. Apologies to Cider Yellow for being gumpy...!
M - Feeling very low psyche - warmed up on QFD, and Too Many Cooks but messed up the crux and came off (annoying as have done it twiice before) - didn't seem to b able to crimp... Had a few thoughts about not getting on WO, but Cider Yellow kindly put the clips in on the way down so jumped on redpoint. Got my sequence right this time but came off on the crux move - partly as fingers were greasy from previous hold, but possible also not totally comitted (it's a really hard, core move you have to properly try for). Had a few seconds rest then pulled on, through the crux and up to the top section. Went through sequence, but once again just couldn't get te knee bar in. Messed around for ages trying every foot hold (or non-hold) possible, but couldn't get it to work. Ended up getting cold due to wind and rain so pulled up and stripped it. Rained off crag so headed home early.

So, the positive from the weekend is that I managed to get out of London (yay!) and got on lead on WO, which is a big mental challenge for me as I find it quite a scary route. Negative is I feel like its been a bit of a backward step.... I know the sequence I sorted for the top section last time I tried it in June, but couldn't get it to work aagain. Position of left foot and body position is key, but the left foothold I had used seemed too far away this time and there are no other footholds - smearing up worked once or twice but very strenuous and touch and go. Not really sure what else to try - very frustrating!

In reply to Ali:


Want out - the top bit, I found a crafty side pull if that helps. It means going basically direct rather than heading left like some people. I can try to describe it in more detail if that helps you.

A well fought route will be more rewarding in the long term....

In reply to Ali:

Thanks and good efforts on the red point attempts sounds like you are almost there.
FYI Something stupid was stupidly wet on saturday and from the updates from the malham/kilnsey conditions facebook group Malham got worse by monday so give it a few weeks.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Tues: went to womens coaching session at harrogate. as usual was happy as larry on 6as but really struggle on 6a+.
weds:core session before work and stretches
thurs: 2 hrs bouldering at the depot - all the whites for a warm up, then most of the blacks - finished when I started running out of energy
fri: antagonistic session before work and stretches. 20 mins run at dinnertime (first dinnertime run for a year after injury)
saturday: nowt
sunday: sport climbing. 2x5+, 2x6a, then tried very unsuccesfully to lead 6a+ ..a masterpiece of dogging. Tried again on TR and still found it hard, couldnt tr it cleanly - mates thought I might be overgripping, which would fit as I was not feeling very confident at all and head had been in completely the wrong place even on the easier stuff. On the bright side, it provided them with giggles!
monday: completely knackered, nowt.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

After the roof session at RP last week I got back on it on Tuesday. Managed to do a 7a+/b which felt much much easier. Felt a lot more psyche for the roof again. It seems stamina comes back quite quickly! Feeling the training love right now, and really want to squeeze in at least one roof session and a barrel session a week until Turkey. Anything else (indoor/outdoor leading is a bonus). I'm not going to f*ck about in Turkey. I'm going to force myself on to the long hard routes even it means spending a whole week doing nothing. My UKC logbook reads a lot of dogged routes at the moment, but this is good. It means I've actually started getting on routes which are hard. I'm really psyched.

M-
T- Got on the roof. Smashed out a 7a+/b. Felt so easy today. Psyched to be getting fitness back again. Played around on some really hard corey moves on small holds on the roof and then eded up doing 18mins of 30sec on 30sec off pull-ups, dips and sit-ups. Finished this with plank. Hard work.
W- Football training. 1hr fitness and 1hr drills and game.
T- Rest day
F- Dysserth Waterfall Crag. Finished off a F7c which I'd fallen off on the last visit. Did a 7a+ and then had a play on The Madness Reigns. An absoutely quality route put up by Chris Doyle. Psyched to get back on it. Crag stayed dry despite the weather forcast.
S- Empire Crag on Llandudno - Was taking this as a rest day but got itchey fingers and pulled on anyway because it looked like so much fun. Couple of 7a flashes and a 6c. Cool crag - Despite being able to see it from the window of my house I'd never been there.
S- Portland (bit far from Wales I know!) Bit gutted really as we had a really good plan. Unfortunately everything at Wallsend was caked in mud for some reason - must have been the rain washing the dirt on to all of the holds. Had a play on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner which was pretty cool (not sure it warrants 3stars?) worked out a good sequence for the bottom half. Unfortunately it was pretty filthy higher up and we'd lost the brush somewhere in boulder field so sacked it off. Then I fell off Stone Cold Sober right at the top on the flash (classy route!) The route was again so dirty but I can't really usse this as an excuse for falling off. Finally we ended up at Blacknor (surely this would be clean!) and it was. Managed to send Twangy Pearl 1st RP. Fell off at the 4th bolt on the O/S. It seems the holds all get a little better at that point as well! Doh. What a great little route though. Loved the flowstone pipes.

Psyched for Turkey. Unfortunately I have to start back at school next Monday. Doh! Let's hope I don't start getting fat.

STG - Manage to go up and down a route on the steep roof at RP again. (this used to feel v.easy - felt impossible last week...)
Get on some more of the 8a's in redpoint
At least 1 barrel session and 1 roof session a week at RP.

MTG - Climb 8a in Turkey
Sub-18 5K. (Currently - 18:45)
5minute mile (Currently - 5:34)

In reply to grubes:

Well done buddy. Great achievement. Keep it up!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers and well done on the 7c.

Gutted for you at portland but there was not much point for coming to Malham. Unless you were keen to watch a 9a+ beast on rainshadow (was pretty inspiational) he breezed up raindogs 3/4 times while I was there. it had wet footholds on the start too. L'Obsssion and Obsession were dry though but that was it.

Meant to say before great news Rich Popp and definitely inspiring that you're back and climbing hard.

In reply to Daniel Heath:


Thanks Low activity week this week, on holiday in Scotland mainly building and flying cardboard rockets.

m - Road biking 5.58 km, 5.55 km
t - Road biking 5.54 km, 5.52 km
w - Road biking 5.56 km
t - Holiday
f - "
s - "
s - "

STG
Cycle at least 40 km / week
Run at least 15 km / week
Get to the climbing wall

MTG
Lose weight. I'd like to see how 75 kg feels (currently 82)
Run faster & further (not necessarily in combination)
Do some multipitch climbing

LTG
Climb big mountains.
Avoid a heart attack.

In reply to grubes:

CLIPSTICK ! Bolt to bolt it. In fact for Tipo Sueca it's very on-sightable - unless you're me of course and you yet again blow a 7a on-sight attempt by hanging around before committing to the crux that is much easier than you think it will be.

I'm keen to get back to Poza de la Mona so i can always take you up there for Manzanilla Madness if you like.

In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Daniel
Re: defining my goals, I'm not sure which area I need to concentrate on for sport and what I can realistically achieve in 5 weeks? Strength? I really should do some kind of fall practice...
Think the circuits might be worth trying and easy to fit in, might try Huddersfield wall as it's good for circuits
Mon - first day back artwork after 3 weeks tired
Tues - kettle bells & stretches
Weds - tired
Thurs - tired
Fri - visit mum
Sat - mum duty again
Sun - 1 hour bouldering. Attempts at any kind of focused training were scuppered by coughing and breathlessness. Did problems up to V2 but had to rest between each attempt.

Feeling pretty frustrated after 4 weeks of hardly doing anything after whooping cough. I know I will struggle to do anything cardio that makes me breath hard. Could do weights slowly but can't do energetic kettle bell movements like swings.

Feel like I'm chomping at the bit to exercise properly again which is good for motivation I suppose!
Goals - do general conditioning to prepare for 2 weeks of climbing at the end of sept
- practice falling
- incorporate circuits into bouldering
- exercise 4 times this week
- exercise

In reply to grubes and Eagle River: cheers guys, it's been a good summer!

Just about to write a new post about onsighting Supersonic, a bold E5 at High Tor today, I'm super psyched now but I've never been so scared in my life!

I really rate City Bloc as a bouldering wall, it's why we travel from Manchester to Leeds on the train to go! The problems are really well set, and every time I go there I always feel like I've had a great session. Admittedly the fact that the main feature of the place is the skate park isn't great but at least the caf is good, and the staff who are actually involved in the climbing are really nice and enthusiastic about the climbing and setting.

In reply to biscuit:

Bolt to bolt is definately the way to go hauling is too tiring. but the clip stick is good for if I get confused. I guess I could go for a flash with a knowledgable climbing instructor giving me beta ...


Definately keen for that. Happy to pay petrol etc. not been to any of out lying crags.

In reply to grubes:

It's very flashable. Hard start moves - but once you've seen them you know what to do, lovely easy to read wall climbing with a couple of good shakes and then the crux at the end which for me was all about which way my hands were. Mine were the wrong way of course.

Desplo is only 10 mins drive away. Buy me a beer after, no petrol money needed.

In reply to biscuit:
is it a slabby crux? if so think I should be okay, esp with beta saying this not done much slab climbing in a while.

In reply to grubes:

Tipo has a boulder start ( physical crux for sure ) and then a redpoint crux at the end, it's a long route. I'd say it's vertical to slabby. Certainly not steep. One of those climbs where you think " I could just do with a decent hold to shake out on soon " and one appears every time - until the end.

In reply to biscuit:
Awesome. Definately on the list!

Okay 9 weeks to prepare now. but what to focus on is the question.
Finger is getting there too which is good still not criping with my left and seem to of naturally started open handing with my right too.

In reply to Kevster: I know...it would just feel better if I knew I could do it!

Which side pull do you mean? At the moment, I have right hand on the good/jug hold below the roof, go with my left to a horrible big/flat sidepull out left (up and left of the good crimp), change my right hand on the jug to the really bad sidepull, then smear left foot and get right leg up into dodgy knee bar that if I get it right, gives me a split second to go for the big jug over the roof (to right of bolt). I then have to admit to scuttling out right to finish, but I have been assurred this is allowed... Had a look at going direct, but seemed totally nails unless you are a demon on slopers!

In reply to Ali:
I've mailed my sequence, save the spoiler for others. K

In reply to Kevster: Thanks!

In reply to grubes:

Depends what you're going for. Are you after on-sighting/flashing or red-pointing a project? 7a in a day surely means you could get a 7b this trip if you dedicated time to it. Have a think what you want. I need another 7b or 3 in my very skewed pyramid so i'd be happy to join you if that's the way you want to go.

You also need to think if you're going for steep or vertical/slabby.

9 weeks is enough time to make a difference in whatever you go for. Your finger can't be that bad if you're getting on at Malham btw.

In reply to biscuit:

Now that is a good question!


To be honest I had thought of 7b as a longer term goal something for next spring/summer. It had not crossed my mind to go for it on this trip ...
There looks to be so much quality at that grade as well.
Akira at desplo http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=113556
two at encantadas
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=82127
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112961
Arabe -
Rock the kasbah http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112691 sounds the right sort of route for me.

I guess it would be stupid for me not to try a 7b ...
Saying that there is so much quality at every grade.


I want to climb every angle I have been spending a lot of time on steeper walls to get better at that style of climbing.

I have a lot to think about .. I will work on my trip tick list and use that to work out what I want from the trip.

In reply to grubes:

Sounds like a plan.

I'll ask around for quick to work 7b's. My thoughts would be Gros Rouge at Encantadas ( Sara near to it is a very good stamina 7a+) or Anack Sunamun if you're feeling fit.

In reply to Daniel Heath: A very quick post on Saturday morning, dont want to drift off on second week back, thanks for everyones comments, it is a year this weekend since I first noticed a soreness in my mouth, if anyone ever looks at a lump or bump and thinks shit that really is not right, go and get it checked out, time is off the essence, not just for outcome but for severity of the treatment.

Anyway, onto more important things....Kalymnos, off at the end of October with Si d'H hooray. after much prevarication accepted I could not go to Spain the previous weekend with Nik Jennings but as one door closes another opens.

Overall a good week, worked hard to land a big peice of work (tick) so getting out took a bit of a back seat, big family gathering also impacted. But ticked all my aims froam the previous week. Rather than a light fingerbaord I have been doing three sets of Bolton Complexes followed by a "burl" routine and then some hangs on the fingerbaord, just trying to up. the workload. One downside is I still cannot run due to niggling injury, strain inside top of the thigh, not quite sure what stretch can get in there.

M-Sretching and fingerboard.
T-TCA, flashed all the f5/5+ problems, got a couple of the next circuit, swimming.
W-Stretching, fingerboard and swimming.
T-Cheddar, very light session but fun, got on a 7a but not very focussed.
F-Stretchign and swimming.
S-eating tonnes.
S-more eating but good fingerboard sesssion when I got back.

Rich

T-Got out for very light session


STG (April)-repeat/red-point 6c (tick) lead HVS
MTG (October) red-point 7a, lead E2 (would love to do Ahimsa but not sure how realistic that is)

7A 0/1, 6c+ 0/2, 6c 4/4, 6b+ 7/8
E3 0/1, E2 0/2, E1 0/4, HVS 0/8

LTG (April 2013) On-sight 7a, lead E4(????!!!!)

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Just wanting to wallow in a NNFN moment and get some sympathy from fit clubbers as i am grumpy and depressed.

Long story short i've cracked my ribs. Lots of pain and misery and looking at 3-6 weeks out i reckon. Pissed off does not cover it.

In reply to biscuit:

Ouch man, wishing you a good recovery.

Rest well.

In reply to biscuit:

Shit. Gutted for you mate, although with that prognosis you should be sorted by the time I come over......

In reply to biscuit: Unlucky mate, that's awful news, hope you recover quickly.

In reply to biscuit:

Biscuit - that sucks. Hope you're better soon.

Grubes - nice one mate, 7a is a biggie!

Maria - been thinking about you all week. Hope you're ok. Must be a horrible situation to have been in. Well done for helping out. It's always sad when someone dies in the hills. I guess it shows that anyone can have an accident.

In reply to biscuit:

Oh crap mate. Gutted. Ribs is an arse. Pretty much means no physical exercise that involves heavy breathing. Use the time to top up your tan!!!

In reply to biscuit:

Thanks guys i am feeling suitably pitied now. I just needed to feel miserable for a bit.

I have been told that normally you can start climbing after a couple of weeks. Not so sure as it's a high up rib or 2 that have gone and they are supposed to take longer.

However i am going to get on with my plan i have had in my head for a while now to build a small campus board outside on the patio. Not for actual campussing but for foot on aero and PE training. It's supposed to be the most efficient way of doing it and Ste Mc says it's great and as it's so controllable i'll be able to use it sooner than i can get back to proper climbing. I will also be able to do something most days more importantly.