/ new bouldering wall in York

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pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
just went down to the new Red Goat bouldering wall yesterday, well impressed. So chuffed to finally have a decent size bouldering venue in york!
Kieran_John - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:

What...where?!? I learned to climb at Energise and longed for a proper bouldering place. I've moved closer to Leeds now but still nip back to York frequently.
oddtoast on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Am glad you had a good time, shame I didn't make it - will def have to go have a nosy sometime this weekend, I hope there's plenty of easy stuff for me! :)

J
oddtoast on 31 Aug 2012
Kieran_John - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Well, I know what I'm doing on Sunday...
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to oddtoast: who are you then? was I talking about it to you on email or facebook? there was lots of easy stuff so dont worry about that
oddtoast on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Lol, I'm Justine - told you my username on here the other day *waves* :p
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to oddtoast: do'h!
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to oddtoast: there will be tons there for you, just dont do what I did and boulder till you get a blister ripping off and leaving a flapper!
Lord_ash2000 - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles: Looks good. Nice and simple shapes, no whacky paint jobs, decent range of angles. Maybe a bit too much vertical stuff than I'd like personally but each to their own.

Not that I've been there but the only thing that raised an eyebrow for me was the amount of glass on that front wall, "Greenhouse" sprang to mind. But if it's north facing it should be fine.
muppetfilter - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles: It was a nice suprise to find such a well thought out venue in York, It will be a real success :0)

ps. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flapper
lithos on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:
muppet! only had to look at her profile

lithos on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to muppetfilter:

and nice peeps ready to listen as well, with some excellent plans

Go Adam and Nikki
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to lithos: muppet yourself! I did look, and there was nothing there that made me think 'justine' :-p
Simon Caldwell - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Kieran_John:
> I know what I'm doing on Sunday.

Climbing outdoors on one of the few fine days of the summer?
lithos on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:
> (In reply to lithos) I did look, and there was nothing there that made me think 'justine' :-p

really - actually im not surprised :o)

anyhoo Red Goat is worth checking out - parking might get interesting (probably not an issue at night - and Yorkies can cycle!) but easy to walk from Morrisons car park
Kieran_John - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Toreador:

It's due to be nice? That would give me chance to try out my new (used) bouldering mat. Maybe a bit of both then :)

To the people that have been: are there any cafe facilities at this new place?
lithos on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Kieran_John:

basic cafe - snacks and coffee at the moment, close to morrisons cafe
and the greasy spoon (wont be open in evening) near the small Asda

(well located for supermarkets!)
oddtoast on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to lithos:
Hope the plans included club or multi-buy discount, would make pricing more attractive for dropping in randomly. I know 7 is probably fair for an evening, but would put me off popping in for shorter sessions on a whim or more frequently. Maybe I'm just too cheap :p

Glad there's lot of easy stuff, and the location is so convenient for me that I'm sure I'll end up there one way or another. Friendliness is what makes the difference in terms of encouraging regular use though :)
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Kieran_John: proper coffee available from the desk, squishy leather sofas and a table to drink it from, basic chox and cake there at the moment but they seem to have grand plans for some serious cake action, in the meantime the caramel shortbread I had was very gooey and nice, there were also brownies which i didnt try this time. Nice friendly and relaxed feel to the place I thought. If you park at morrisons remember that like most supermarkets they will have you if you park more than a couple of hours.
I can walk there in 15 minutes from my house <looks smug>
ads.ukclimbing.com
Kieran_John - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:

I WOULD have been able to walk there from my old house, I used to run down the river to the side of Huntington Road, then on to a little back path which came out at James Street, from what google maps is saying it's pretty much opposite me.

I'm now in Castleford, so it'd be a bit far to walk. Looking forward to giving this place a go on Sunday though, anyone else there then?
pebbles - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Kieran_John: i should hope not, its a sunny sunday!!!!!!!!!!!stop being such a UV dodger and get yourself on some rock!
Kieran_John - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to pebbles:

I'll be out before, planning on heading to Wetherby. Not the most marvelous of locations for bouldering but I like it, and they sell ice-cream nearby(!)

I've got a minor addiction to indoor walls though so I'll be checking it out afterwards, and I'm hoping to get a few non-climber friends to meet me there (most of my mates are still in York).
Kieran_John - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Went today for a good couple of hours, the wall is really well done. Space is used nicely, the building isn't massive at the moment but there was enough there for me to climb for two hours without getting bored and I could certainly have carried on if I wasn't exhausted!

Good mix of wall types, some overhanging, a roof section, plenty of verticle and a traverse wall.

Problem setting is excellent thus far. Split up in to different colours (as usual) with a V0 band, then V0 to V2, V3 to V5, V5 to V6, and two others upwards, then a circuit varying from V0 to V8+. Grading seems spot on to me, I struggled on the V5s but could get up some, which is about right. There's a section of wall which looks like it'll be used for a campus board/fingerboard too.

Nicely lit, quite warm but not oppressively so like Energise, the windows don't really catch the sun so it doesn't turn in to a greenhouse.

All in all pretty damn good, I'll certainly be going back when I'm in York.
jkarran - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Seems excellent to me too. Very nice set-up, plenty of wall space and a reasonable density of nicely set problems sensibly spread right across the (fairly soft?) grades.

If I was being picky I'd have liked to see more problems in the reception room, circuit walls don't work so well when it's busy and it's not a huge wall. I'd also personally have liked to see a bit less vertical, a bit more 3d stuff. But I'm not going to be picky, I'm very pleased to have a good bouldering wall in town, my winter petrol bill just dropped a bit. Best of luck to them :)

jk
Niels - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles: agreed with some of the above, great wall. Purple circuit a bit soft green circuit quite hard. Loved it though.
oddtoast on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Went at the weekend - warm but not as hot as expected with the weather.

Tried the yellow's (V0-V2) and really enjoyed - especially the 3D ones up corners etc. As a new climber I would have preferred the band being split up or narrower so could see which were the easy ones more clearly and work way up/through: there's quite a big jump between V0 and V2 when you're not very good!

Friendly bunch, nice setup and looking forward to going back when my skin has recovered :p
Kieran_John - on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to oddtoast:

I'd agree on the lower grades, I took a friend who has never climbed before and she struggled to get up anything. There's not much in the way of easier V0 routes, though admittedly this doesn't seem to be the audience they're after at present so maybe they'll come in time.

Chatting with the guys recently they've said they're having a reset this week.

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