/ Best route you've done?

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jkarran - on 31 Aug 2012
What's the best route you've ever done and why? Maybe it's the most challenging or was at the time, maybe the most aesthetic, maybe it just had some really cool moves...

Can you decide? I'm struggling, there are so many vague memories and the few that stand out don't seem to be the 'best' routes when viewed objectively, simply the most memorable experiences.

As much as I rack my brain for better routes (I'm sure they're in there) the two I keep coming back to are:

Red Rose Speedway, Symonds Yat. Nice climbing though I imagine it's not outstanding in any real sense but it took everything I had at the time, was climbed on a lovely day and as part of a trip with friends. For some reason that one has stuck with me.

Snake Dyke, Half Dome. Such an unlikely way up such an unlikely feature in mind boggling (to a British bumkin anyway) surroundings. A really big day out on a really unusual route climbing something iconic as part of an amazing month with friends.

jk
SteveSBlake - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Hmm, from RRS to Snake Dyke! Surely you can do better than that in the UK!

;-)

Steve
stvredmond - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Got to be rock idol (mother scarey) or angles girdle (wintours leap). just for the experience and the fun i had on the route
JIMBO on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:
Trancemission, Battleship Back Cliff.

Starts with half of Zinc Oxide Mountain, traverses via a brilliant rose move into the first crux of Info Freako and finishes (for the short doing the proper finish!) with a dyno to the belay. So much packed in makes it a big one for me. Especially the final move thinking if I mess this up I've got a lot to do to have another go!
stvredmond - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Its a shame RRS is at the yat. its wasted at the yat and needs to be moved to somewhere which is nicer to climb like shorncliffe or goblin coombe
The Pylon King on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to stvredmond:
> (In reply to jkarran) Its a shame RRS is at the yat. its wasted at the yat and needs to be moved to somewhere which is nicer to climb like shorncliffe or goblin coombe

Total utter bollox! - The Yat is far better than either of those two, very samey, crags.

Anything as good as Whitt or The Trip or Yongona or On the Lip of Insanity or Snoozin Suzie - i dont think so!!

Pursued by a bear - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: It's very difficult to separate the different bits of what makes a route 'the best'. Sure, the route itself has a lot to do with it but so do the people you were with, the weather, the day or even just your state of mind. For different reasons, Eagle Front (Buttermere), Main Wall (Cyrn Las), Agag's Groove (Buachaille Etive Mor), South Face Direct (Chair Ladder), Suicide Wall (Bosigran), The Plum (Tremadog), Dream Of White Horses (Gogarth), Samarkand (Anglezarke), the south face of the Aiguille du Plan and the voie normale on the Dent Blanche all come to mind as 'the best', though for different reasons; and I'm sure a little more thought would grow the list to a degree that made it useless. Even picking my favourite would be a tough choice.

Still, it's providing the opportunity for a happy meander in times past...

T.
Bulls Crack - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Hmm Eroica, The Moon, Coronation Street, Cenotaph Corner on a quiet Monday morning in Autumn .... tricky!
SteveSBlake - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Pylon King Liberation Front:

They are all an aquired taste.....

You are obviously hooked by the Yat's enigmatic charm. Somedays it's good, and some routes are good. Somedays it's shyte as are many of the routes!

;-)

Steve
Mooncat - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Probably something on Gogarth, Concrete Chimney or Britomartis are contenders, or possibly Main Wall, best pitch contender is the Groove on Ten Degrees North.
Blue Straggler - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
> (In reply to jkarran) It's very difficult to separate the different bits of what makes a route 'the best'. Sure, the route itself has a lot to do with it but so do the people you were with, the weather, the day or even just your state of mind.

The question regards "best route", not "best climbing experience". I would hope people can be objective and deal with just the route, not the other factors. I've had poor personal experiences on some routes but I might pick one of those as a "best route" nonetheless.

CurlyStevo - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:
The Pumpkin without a shadow of a doubt: pushy, steep, serious, blue sky, toffee ice, perfection.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=88686
Blue Straggler - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

in fairness to you, jkarran virtually contradicts himself in his own OP :-)
(mentioning objectivity then including parameters that weren't to do with the route on both his choices....but I assume he mentioned that just to highlight the difficulty of being objective...)

I might go for Suicide Wall at Cratcliffe, I can be objective about that one especially as I dogged my lead of P1
victim of mathematics - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:
> What's the best route you've ever done and why? Maybe it's the most challenging or was at the time, maybe the most aesthetic, maybe it just had some really cool moves...
>
> Can you decide? I'm struggling, there are so many vague memories and the few that stand out don't seem to be the 'best' routes when viewed objectively, simply the most memorable experiences.

What are you asking, the best experience or the best route objectively, because if it's the latter then you shouldn't factor in the relative difficulty for you at the time you climbed it. Which is nigh-on impossible.

I'll say Vestpillaren either way, because the climbing is undeniably awesome, it climbs a beautiful bit of rock and it's in a stunning place, as well as having been a huge challenge for me.
Kemics - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

I think for me it's Humanality on Tonsai. I climbed it at the perfect time when it was at my onsight limit so I imagine I enjoyed it all the more.

But the climbing is brilliant in the individual moves, the rock is great, the line is simply outrageous and all climbed up a giant karst in Thailand.
In reply to jkarran:

For many years it was White Slab, then The Good Book, then it was Shibboleth. Then about 20 years ago I realised there had been too many great routes to tell anymore!


Chris
Al Evans on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: THats right Chris too many to choose so I'm going to choose four of my own which gave me great satistaction
Lakes---White Ghyll Eliminate (my first/only 'big' new Lakes route)
Wales---North West Passage ( I think ther best of my personal Gogarth contributions rather than one of Jims)
Peak----Conjunctis Viribus at Agden, my first major new route
Lancs/S Lakes--- Jean Jeanie because it was great to find an unclimbed classic route at VS/HVS in those days even.
Jon Stewart - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Quite possibly Geriatrics at Sheigra. An incredibly spectacular line traversing along the lip of a sea cave (always fun), on the best rock anywhere, surrounded by the most beautiful scenery in the world.

Unfortunately the actual climbing, while excellent, isn't really amazing - no really memorable or inventive moves - and you could climb the crag anywhere so the line is actually a bit arbitrary. But for me, exposure, setting and rock quality are the key qualities - to be completely surrounded by astounding natural beauty, heart in mouth but feeling confident on secure solid super-grippy rock, is where it's at. The remoteness of the place makes it a real privilege to visit and keeps the crowds away.

Very nearly perfect.

Jon Stewart - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Al Evans:

White Gyhll Eliminate has one of the hardest moves I've ever done on a route (and a "climb me if you think you're 'ard enough" line), and the top pitch of North West Passage is one of the best pitches I've ever done. What fantastic contributions, thanks!
Robert Durran - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> Quite possibly Geriatrics at Sheigra.

Worthy choice. If this route were in Pembroke it would be a famous uber-classic. Then again, if it were in Pembroke it wouldn't be quite as good simply because of being in Pembroke rather than at Sheigra.
Robert Durran - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> I'll say Vestpillaren either way, because the climbing is undeniably awesome, it climbs a beautiful bit of rock and it's in a stunning place, as well as having been a huge challenge for me.

Shame about the unsatisfactory, indirect grotty finish though. Because of this, I reckon Steeple is marginally better.

climbingpixie - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Tough question! I've got so many favourites for different reasons and the more I think about it the more contenders pop up.

1) Vestpillaren because it was really challenging for me, has great climbing and was done in the middle of a brilliant holiday this year
2) Comes the Dervish because I'd spent a long time dreaming about it and it didn't disappoint
3) Concrete Chimney because I'd just gotten together with my current chap and we did it on a beautiful summer evening, with Wen Zawn lit up in gold and red while the sun set behind us
4) The Verger because it was serious and scary and was the first time since I broke my leg bouldering that I felt like my climbing head had come back properly
jkarran - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> What are you asking, the best experience or the best route objectively, because if it's the latter then you shouldn't factor in the relative difficulty for you at the time you climbed it. Which is nigh-on impossible.

Both. Either. Neither... I'm not sure to be honest! I was just thinking about good routes and memories of them, wondering why some stood out more than others and what to add to the mental hit-list for next year.

There isn't really an objective measure of route quality so I thought I'd throw out the rather vague question to see what came back. If people want to try and be objective that's cool, if they just want to share interesting memories that's cool too.

jk
Ally Smith on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Occident at Terredets stands out as almost perfection in what i like about continental sport climbing (it's even a soft touch to boot)

El Zulu Demente (rather than Fiesta de los Biceps) at Riglos was an amzing day out. Even though i seconded the crux, doing so with a sack on made my forearsm pump almost uncontrollably!

Finally, Lillaz Gully in Cogne is my favourite winter experience. Last minute decision to climb it (instead of skiing). Brilliant sinker placements the whole way up and beer, coffees and pizza in town before the others got back. Bliss :-)
The Pylon King on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to SteveSBlake:
> (In reply to Pylon King Liberation Front)
>
> They are all an aquired taste.....
>
> You are obviously hooked by the Yat's enigmatic charm.

Aye, definitely into enigmatic charm rather than bland predictability.

:)
Jonny2vests - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:
> What's the best route you've ever done and why?

The Grand Wall in Squamish. Doing it again tomorrow, to make sure it's still good.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=50899

Why? Because I ran out of things at the Yat :-{}
Gordon Stainforth - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

Your :-{} says it all.
DaveAtkinson - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

The Giant and Cougar on the Dubh lch and Parallel Gully B on lochnagar. You just can't beat good solid Cairngorm granite.

The Bonatti Pillar on the Dru was good too.
marky - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: The Groove at Malham - a perfect day and the end of a protracted seige!
Christheclimber - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

So many to choose from but two "routes" are:
Combining Demetreus, Wavelength Touch and Javelin Blade which makes a superb climb at Idwal.
Also doing Pinnacle Arete and The Hand Traverse on Cloggy is excellent.
John_Hat - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Outside the UK probably The Grack, Glacier Point Apron, Yosemite.
Inside the UK... Gawd, no idea..
Christheclimber - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Christheclimber:
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> So many to choose from but two "routes" are:
> Combining Demetreus, Wavelength Touch and Javelin Blade which makes a superb climb at Idwal.
> Also doing Pinnacle Arete and The Hand Traverse on Cloggy is excellent.

May have done Daurigol then Pinnacle Arete and The Hand Traverse together?
Julian Wedd on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Kemics:

Humanality at Tonsai is also one of the best routes for me. I led all pitches and thought it was an outstanding route.
Neil Adams - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: I reckon Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay. A truly wild position, awesome exposure, great rock and great climbing. The first 3 pitches go up & out over a massive sea cave towards a seemingly impenetratable band of roofs. As the name suggests, you press on towards these in an ever more committed position until, at the end of pitch 3, 80m above a roaring sea, the chink in the armour appears. The move through the roof turns out to be about 4b, but it's not over yet - there's tricky climbing up the headwall with even more wild exposure and great moves to the top. Absolutely incredible.
HenryCowan - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Integrity, without a doubt
ERU - on 31 Aug 2012
Exposure Explosion, Ogmore, South Wales. I personally think Ogmore is a nationally important crag and I like the fact it's ignored! Best done when the sky is overcast and sea is akin to a slobbering / sucking beast :)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35735
Jon Stewart - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:
> (In reply to jkarran) I reckon Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay.

I'm adding that one to my list of routes I absolutely must do.
Neil Adams - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Neil Adams)
> [...]
>
> I'm adding that one to my list of routes I absolutely must do.

You won't regret it! Sula is a pretty amazing warm-up too...
Gordon Stainforth - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:

Your account is so exciting that I thought I'd link it to a picture in the galleries:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=116226
Rog Wilko on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Two stand-out routes for me are both at Mt Arapiles - Lamplighter (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=645) and Watchtower Crack (visible on the left side of this picture http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=95343
Gordon Stainforth - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:

I.e. your picture :)
Jamie B - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

I assume we're talking about rock routes, despite a couple of winter suggestions. I'd have to say Mur Y Niwl/Pinnacle Wall on Craig Yr Ysfa. A real journey into continuously forbidding and unlikely looking terrain, with excellent rock and constantly interesting climbing at the grade. Add sunshine, good company and a juggy romp up the Pinnacle to finish and you have a smile that wasn't extinguished for days!
Brendan - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

I remember thinking "I can't believe this" several times while climbing Dafni at Ghost Kitchen on Kalymnos. It just seemed incredible that those rock formations were real.

I've done South Ridge Direct on Arran twice and it was amazing both times. A real adventure in a stunning location.

Hamish Ted's at Dunkeld is a great pitch, I think it's special to me because Polney was one of first places I climbed and the sports routes at Upper Cave looked impossible back then. I haven't managed it yet though!
Petarghh - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Corrugation Corner - Lovers Leap, 3 pitches of steep exposed climbing that looks way harder that its grade from below !!
Tom Last - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Comes the Dervish, Jack the Ripper, Desolation Row, Cullin Ridge traverse, Magical Mystery Tour.

All with good friends, good memories and fantastic climbing!
Martin Haworth on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: Memorable routes I've done in the UK include:

Torro on Carn Dearg.
Walking into Carnmore and doing Dragon and Gob and then walking out again on the same day.
Kalahari.
Mousetrap.
Mark Westerman - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Can I have the Cuillin Ridge please as a route? By far and away better than anything else I have done and probably will do.

Cheers
Mark
Baron Weasel - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: All for different reasons, but from a quick stroll through the mindscape of climbing memories the ones that jump out are: Faith at Idwal, Slug Club Special in the quarries, Chequers Buttress at Froggatt, Gimmer Crack at erm,let me see, oh yeah, Gimmer, Spartan Slab on Etive slabs and original route on the Old Man of Stoer. Summit of Napes Needle by slackline was a good one too, though not strictly climbing!

Baron Weasel
Baron Weasel - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to Baron Weasel: ...and how could I forget Cautley Spout - without doubt the most scary, far out and dangerous climb I have ever done... Didn't need an adrenaline fix for monthes after that!

Baron Weasel
ajones - on 31 Aug 2012
Hard to pick, but one of my favourite days of climbing I've had was on Agag's Groove on a crisp, clear September day some years ago. Not too daunting in terms of technical difficulty (though conditions for us were was nigh-perfect, expect it would be a very different proposition in wild weather) it still has a satisfying feeling of exposure and is in a great situation.
Climbed it with one of my oldest friends, and it was at a time where I'd been getting out fairly regularly and was feeling positive about my climbing in general. Think that makes a difference.
Mark Kemball - on 31 Aug 2012
In reply to jkarran: For a long time, it was Jelly Roll, Cloggy because I love bridging and the position is superb. Possibly Strapadictomy, Froggatt for its wonderfull moves which are still fixed in my mind after about 30 years (I can't recall the moves on any other route in that detail). Other great routes - Cemetry Gates and Coronation Street.
mark s - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: I didn't actuall do it as fell off the last move.me andi and grimer went to do the magic flute in Costa blance one day.I went for o/s but stuffed it atthe top.was too tired to try again.one of my all time fav days out and always sticks in my memory.
In the uk,maybe track of the cat as its not hard enough to put you in the zone.so you can enjoy all the brillint moves on the best grit.
LakesWinter on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Probably Right Hand Gantry Curtain at Honister in the Lakes, steep, varied and excellent climbing throughout and only 15 minutes from the road.
The Pumpkin and North East Buttress on Nevis were cool experiences also.

If we're restricting the discussion to rock climbing then I'm not sure I could choose and you'd get a different answer tomorrow but Crescent Arete has a lot going for it in terms of the purity of the line and the flowing moves.
davidbeynon - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

One of the routes on the Delago tower in the dolomites. It was awesome.
Goucho on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran: Just one route - pretty hard to do, is it UK rock, USA, Alpine, Winter, Mixed...so many great ones to choose from.

But if I had to pick just ONE...then it would have to be Walker Spur.

Classic iconic route, on a great face, with great rock climbing, bits of ice thrown in, and also mixed.

Did it in perfect conditions, with two of my best climbing partners, and we were the only rope on the route - also the best bivi site i've ever experienced.

Even the decent back down the Hirrondells was perfect.
Robert Durran - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:
> (In reply to jkarran) I reckon Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay.

I thought Les Voyageurs, at the same grade, even better.
Michael Gordon - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to Martin Haworth:
>
> Walking into Carnmore and doing Dragon and Gob and then walking out again on the same day.
>

That's a very impressive day. Can't imagine many folk have done that!
Wilbur - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Moonraker or magical mystery tour or left wall. Can't choose between the experience on each of them...
john arran - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Rainbow Jambaia (Angel Falls).

Certainly one of the most inspiring lines I've ever seen and in one of the most beautiful places in the world. To get the FFA after two failures and a 19-day protracted struggle felt like about as good as it gets.
abseil on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Coronation Street, Cheddar.
White Slab, Cloggy.
The Mousetrap.

Reasons - all long, committing, also superb lines, good sense of exposure. Lots of good moves on Coronation Street e.g. swinging round the shield, and the groove above the shield. Felt great at the top of all three routes.
alasdair19 on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to abseil: I did mousetrap yesterday, just amazing, good and strong friends on the rope. Bizarre climbing, crazy rock certainly the best route this year.
abseil on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to alasdair19:
>I did mousetrap yesterday...

That's great, seems like yesterday to me too, after so many years. "Bizarre climbing, crazy rock", too right!
earlsdonwhu - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to alasdair19: Good effort in that wind! Strong enough on Holyhead Mountain.
Skip - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Early days (48 logged climbs) but so far: Shangri La (Baggy Point) and Black Slab (Bosigran).
Jon Stewart - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to abseil and alasdair19: Have either of you guys done Red Wall? I did that the other day, and it kind of put me off doing Mousetrap which I've had on the list for some time. Red Wall was an interesting experience, but not something I'd wish to repeat. Just udging up a vertical sandpit for hours. Fun? Kind of. A bit like taking an obscure, experimental hallucinogenic drug that never really took off because it's not terribly pleasant, just weird.
climbingpixie - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I was talking to Oswald about that this weekend. We did Red Wall on Saturday and I thought it was brilliant, really absorbing the whole way up especially as the easy pitches were still a bit nerve-wracking. It was harder and more serious than Mousetrap though - there's not a move on Mousetrap that's anywhere near as hard as the crux on RW.
Jon Stewart - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to climbingpixie:

Cool, cheers. Oswald wasn't very fond of Red Wall, was he? "I am never, ever going down there again" I think he said.

If you liked Red Wall, you might like Yardarm at Berry Head, which was my saturday choss-fest, if you haven't done it. Think the exposure and style of The Moon with the rotten dusty horror of Red Wall, add a top-out of mud, grass, loose blocks and snails; and the cherry on top is the death-scramble exit. I proper shat myself.
abseil on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to abseil and alasdair19) Have either of you guys done Red Wall?...

No, I haven't, and I hope others who have done both routes reply to you. Good luck anyway.
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I did Red Wall as one of my 1st 'real' Extremes. Never felt the need to go down there again!


Chris
Jonny2vests - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Mousetrap is way better.
In reply to Jon Stewart:

>
> Cool, cheers. Oswald wasn't very fond of Red Wall, was he? "I am never, ever going down there again" I think he said.
>
> If you liked Red Wall, you might like Yardarm at Berry Head, which was my saturday choss-fest, if you haven't done it. Think the exposure and style of The Moon with the rotten dusty horror of Red Wall, add a top-out of mud, grass, loose blocks and snails; and the cherry on top is the death-scramble exit. I proper shat myself.


Oddly I thought Yardarm was OK, wild positions but not too hard. On the other hand, Jim, the guy that followed me up it, arrived at the stance with the 'thousand yard stare'!


Chris

snoop6060 - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Redwall has long been on my todo list, but it just got scratched off permanently. I went down to mousetrap zawn yesterday and did Primate, which was harrowing. I pulled off some massive blocks, jugs, flakes. Everything. The gear was mostly abysmal on the first pitch, and it gets steep and pumpy, albeit for a short period of time. If mousetrap or redwall are anything like this, I'm staying well away. That dusty chalk stuff kept me up all night.
Wink - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran: Britain's got so many fantastic climbs and I would love to repeat some of the classics around the country, but now to old and fat! The best route for me was West Face of the Dru in '71 with Smiler Cuthbertson. We were 21 and 22 and as fit as Butcher's Dogs. We were flying up it when a big storm hit early in the afternoon. We were a long way up so decided to sit it out. The storm lasted for about 12 hours and after being constantly frizzled by lightening we climbed out on vertical iced up rock the next morning. A bit of a minor epic but a great climb that at the time was not done too often. Walker Spur fantastic but slow with Japanese, also really enjoyed the Comici on the Tre Cima, my first Alpine rock climb as a spotty teenager.
Stefan Kruger on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Hard. For different reasons:

Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday link-up. Obsession at Malham. Right Angle at Gurnard's Head. Pensees Cachees at Cuisiniers. Ordinary Route on the Old Man of Stoer. Finale Groove, Swanage. The Hunk at the Buttermilks. Flying Buttress Direct, Stanage. The File, Higgar.

The list is endless.
earlsdonwhu - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran: Loads of great routes of widely differing grades on this thread..... and guess what - barely a sport route is mentioned.

Jonny2vests - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to snoop6060:

Primate gets much less traffic than Mousetrap, so has more 'variables'.
jkarran - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to earlsdonwhu:

> ...barely a sport route is mentioned.

I'm not sure that's entirely fair. Given UKC forums are generally a bit trad-centric and the really good uk sport a bit exclusive it seems like a pretty balanced list to me.

It is a pretty inspiring list of routes to check out though :)

jk
Fultonius - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
> [...]
>
> Shame about the unsatisfactory, indirect grotty finish though. Because of this, I reckon Steeple is marginally better.

You should have done Himmelen kan Vente - Easily as good as Vestpillaren and finishes right in the centre of the face with a tricky traverse pitch below a roof.

In fact, I think it may be one of the best routes I've done.

The Vinatzer/Messner on the Marmolada is as near as dammit the perfect climb - very good rock by Dolomites standards, corners, water-worn grooves, steep technical sections, runout slabs, delicate pocket pulling on steep walls. It's sharp in my mind as it was only a month ago, but, wow, what a route!

An honorary mention must go to Fiesta de Los Biceps. Damn, that thing was STEEP!

Fultonius - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to Neil Adams)
> [...]
>
> I thought Les Voyageurs, at the same grade, even better.

That's good to keep in mind - if there's something better than doing Voyage of Faith with Neil then, if I ever end up back on Mingulay, I need to get me some of that!
Bulls Crack - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to earlsdonwhu:
> (In reply to jkarran) Loads of great routes of widely differing grades on this thread..... and guess what - barely a sport route is mentioned.

Maybe because, as somone once 'famously' observed: that they're great collectively but individually forgettable?

yes, i know; that's not entirely true.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Robert Durran - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Fultonius:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> You should have done Himmelen kan Vente - Easily as good as Vestpillaren.

Actually started up that this summer but finished up Vestpillaren since my partner hurt his shoulder. Yes, looks and sounds fantastic - it's still on the list!
Tim Chappell - on 03 Sep 2012
The Mousetrap would be one of mine. But I mean The Mousetrap on Creag an Dubh-Loch. People above in this thread are clearly talking about some other Mousetrap that I don't know.

I could pick all sorts of things but I'll just go for three- The Mousetrap for a rock route (narrowly beating Integrity); the Biancograt for an Alpine route; Observatory Ridge for a winter route.
Jonny2vests - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> The Mousetrap would be one of mine. But I mean The Mousetrap on Creag an Dubh-Loch. People above in this thread are clearly talking about some other Mousetrap that I don't know.

They're talking about the famous one :-) (PS. I don't believe you)
AJM - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Having done both, I thought Red Wall definitely had harder moves, but unlike climbingpixie I thought Mousetrap was more serious - admittedly my leader went a bit high before traversing across to the second chimney, but I do remember looking up at my leader and figuring if he fell the best option would be a bone shattering swing into a corner, and at worst a deckout onto the boulders, whereas I think if I had fallen off Red Wall I'd have ripped some gear, shat myself, gone miles, but probably not suffered too much injury.

My personal viewpoint is that Red Wall was on the acceptable limit of the rock:cheese ratio, there was enough conventional-ish red rock, whereas Mousetrap was well over that line, and so as a result I want to do more Red Wall ticks like Wendigo and so on but have no desire to go back into Mousetrap Zawn in a hurry. Again my view, but if you thought Red Wall was a sandpit then you might find Mousetrap a similar or more sandy experience (on the hard bits at least, I suppose p1 of Red Wall has it's fair share of talcum powder and sand!).
Pagan - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Just to add my voice to the masses: I thought Red Wall was a more serious proposition than Mousetrap - much more sandy rock (and steeper, so you actually have to pull on it a bit) and generally worse gear, although there are at least some decent cams to back up the peg by the crux if you look around.

I wouldn't be too upset to see Mousetrap at E1, there's plenty of gear for the most part and the belays are good if you look around for them. I've never really understood why people think it's hideously runout; you don't go somewhere like Mousetrap Zawn expecting to place good gear then climb above it - you go there expecting to place lots and lots of poor to average gear with the occasional good bit - it's a damage limitation exercise where if you can slow yourself down enough, something might stop you eventually.

Tim Chappell - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

Don't believe which bit? That I don't know the other Mousetrap? No, really, I don't. From the word 'zawn' it's clearly either in Wales or in Cornwall. I've never been on a rope in either. Unfortunately.
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Tim, this is looking like some strange game you're playing, given that Mousetrap (at Gogarth) is one of the most famous rock climbs in Britain ... in Hard Rock etc. It's just impossible that you haven't heard of it.
Robert Durran - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Fultonius:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> You should have done Himmelen kan Vente - Easily as good as Vestpillaren and finishes right in the centre of the face with a tricky traverse pitch below a roof.

I think the first ascent of Vestpillaren finished with aid up the big right facing corner at the top of the crag, now done free as the top pitches of Reisen (I think). So the true finish to Vestpillaren really ought to take this stunning feature. Unfortunately, though clearly a much better line, this would make the route a lot harder (E4 maybe?), so the standard and unsatisfactory way Vestpillaren is now finished is really just a convenient cop out!
Gordon Stainforth - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

PS. Over the decades there's been at least one outside broadcast done on it. I think two actually.
Tim Chappell - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
>
It's just impossible that you haven't heard of it.


Impossible? Really?

I rather like stretching modalities, myself :-)

Tim Chappell - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
>
> PS. Over the decades there's been at least one outside broadcast done on it. I think two actually.


Ah, but I don't have a TV. I'm hoping to keep my hat in the ring for a high court judge-ship :-)
Smelly Fox - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:
Too close to call between, Cougar at Dubh Loch, UEI at Pabbay and The Pinch Direct at Etive.

Too many good single pitches out there to call, but Vindaloo at Clova, Moons of Pluto at Smith Rocks and Pull My Daisy at the slate quarrys all stand out.

Cheers

Trist

Jonny2vests - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Don't believe which bit? That I don't know the other Mousetrap? No, really, I don't. From the word 'zawn' it's clearly either in Wales or in Cornwall. I've never been on a rope in either. Unfortunately.

Wow. You've been playing games since the sixties, and you've never tied on in Wales? That is some impressive ignoring. I'm not having a go Tim I promise, I'm just taken aback.

So not having a telly helps with getting a High Court judgeship then? Haven't had one for 10 years, maybe I'll apply :-)
AJM - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Pagan:

Amazing how different people can have such different experiences isn't it :) Both memorable experiences whichever way you look at them. Hopefully back down there in a few weeks for a other dose of the fear ;)
Jonny2vests - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Sounds like your mate may have missed the good nut on the traverse to the chimney?
AJM - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

From the corner into the first chimney? Or from the first chimney into the second? If the former he found a nut that was close to you as you moved into the first chimney, but since it was placed in a flakey feature in the sandy rock I wouldn't have classed it as good!
Tim Chappell - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

I'm just never *in* Wales. It's not intentional ignoring, I can assure you. I'd love to climb there. It's just a long way from NE Scotland for a day trip, and driving there would involve driving past Arran, the Lakes, Yorkshire limestone, and the Peak district...
Bulls Crack - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell)
>
> Tim, this is looking like some strange game you're playing, given that Mousetrap (at Gogarth) is one of the most famous rock climbs in Britain ... in Hard Rock etc. It's just impossible that you haven't heard of it.

Don't be so sure - there was that chap a couple of years ago (who wrote the otherwise entertaining UKC article on Cenotaph Corner) who maintained the crux was at 15' even after he'd climbed it - how could anyone not know and then continue to hold that view?
Chris the Tall - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:
Self Control - Val di Mello

Aptly named and very intense. Long day, fried my brains !!
Al Evans on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Don't believe which bit? That I don't know the other Mousetrap? No, really, I don't. From the word 'zawn' it's clearly either in Wales or in Cornwall. I've never been on a rope in either. Unfortunately.

Mousetrap, a unque experience, do it.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=124887
ads.ukclimbing.com
JRae - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran: Another vote for Voyage of Faith. Although to be honest anything on Dun Mingulay!
Evanrock - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:
MAIN WALL done late in life always comes to mind for various reasons.
krikoman - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Little Brown Jug

Arete, Crack and Chimney

Tophet Wall

Loads of other stuff to but even with my crap memory, these are still vivid.


Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM etc:

Ta for the views on RW vs Mousetrap, interesting. I think I'll conclude: not massively different. I'll let someone who really wants to do Mousetrap persuade me to go down there, rather than instigating an expedition myself.
Jonny2vests - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> From the corner into the first chimney? Or from the first chimney into the second? If the former he found a nut that was close to you as you moved into the first chimney, but since it was placed in a flakey feature in the sandy rock I wouldn't have classed it as good!

Yeah, that's the one :-)
Good by Mousetrap standards maybe.
richardhughes - on 10 Sep 2012
I have doen may great routes, hard to decide the best, the the once which does stick in my mind is Arrow Route on Skye. Fab location and atmosphere. Second to this must be Main Wall on Cyrn Las (Llanberis Pass) - here the move form the pulpit around the corner is sooooo exposed it's brilliant yet safe
Trangia - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

1) Cuillin Ridge

Without doubt the most interesting and longest summer route I've done in the UK

2) Old Man of Stoer

One big adventure all the way from the suicidal land descent route, to the swim, the Tyrolean traverse, the tricky first traverse, the main climb, the abseil, the Tyrolean traverse again and the scramble up the land side descent route

3) Door Post, Bosigran

Easy but a sheer joy to climb
john morrissey - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Trangia: for me, Gogarth or Comes the Dervish. Both a long time ago but they are well stuck in my memory.
john morrissey - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Al Evans: mousetrap is awesome but I was just leading E2 when I did it and it left me mentally scarred for ages. Long run outs aboue very questionable gear. however, fantastic climbing in an amazing situation. Just getting to the base of the route is cool.
Bob Hassall - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Too many posts to read now!

But let me add my two penn'orth on a different tack!

Pillar Slab at Curbar, used to get about hard diff, what a splendid route at an amenable grade! Soloed it many times, at the start whilst working on the problem next to it (Wayward Satellite.....did it ever get written up....who knows.....who cares!)

Just a splendid experience, fantastic location, the moors, the heather, the peace and quiet.....and the splendid rock! Grit to die for, though at Hard diff it's quite unlikely!

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