/ Tips for "sit starts" - indoor bouldering
Any tips on sit-starts to problems? In some cases I'll find the start by far the hardest part of a specific problem. Doing the rest of it then having to come back to it, or just ignore it generally.
Your right it is very much down to the problem but in general i would say starting in such a way that you pull in more to the side. not so much starting side on but as you pull in get in a position which will allow you to twist or rotate into the wall. this will use your core strength and hopefully get you off the floor and in a position to move on.
Of course practice is key and the more you do it the easier it will become, watch other people doing it will also help.
>"Any tips on sit-starts to problems?"
Yes, walk away. Life is too short. :-)
(Can you tell I hate sit starts?)
Being 6" 4" with a long upper leg, and 18 stone, I don't like them either. (Think of the leverage effect).
One upside of having a slight back injury at the moment is that I have an excuse not to do them, as the injury is such that that exact movement hurts and causes no more climbing that day, whereas almost no other movement I would want to do on a climbing wall has any effect whatsoever.
Not sure what level you're climbing at, but for sit starts (possibly even more than the rest of climbing) try to use your legs as much as possible. I find it helps to focus on keeping my arms straight and imagine I'm just using my legs to pivot up around my arms. But I guess for harder problems you're going to need to use your arms too!
Start right over your foot, curled up sitting on it if need be. Don't be afraid to start on the 'wrong' foot, use whichever works, swap later when you're stood up. Try smearing if the holds are in the wrong place. Pull harder.
Bar just doing them, is there any specific training that might help, or does the variety of different set ups mean there's nothing really specific that can be done?
>"is there any specific training that might help"
Yoga exercises that promote hip flexibility.
Or don't bother. It's all an arbitrary game anyway. I used to assume the "rule" at bouldering walls was something like "sit start if you can reach the floor with your arse from the starting handholds". (*) Then I did a course with a competition boulderer who told us that in competition there is no such thing as a mandatory sit start. Now I don't bother with them any more unless I feel like it.
(*) which actually might be a promising approach. Assume the off the floor position, then *carefully* lower your arse to the floor without weighting it, then come back up. Voila, "sit start" done. Just an idea, I haven't tried it.
(*) Then I did a course with a competition boulderer who told us that in competition there is no such thing as a mandatory sit start. Now I don't bother with them any more unless I feel like it.
Yeah but that's because they are set that way. Sit start problems are graded for the sit start, so you don't have to do them but if you don't then you'll have to reduce the grade accordingly.
To the OP: Think of the sit start as a move like any other. Keep trying every different position you can think of until you find the one that works best.
so for any given problem, the first move is *always* the hardest and thats what I hate about sit starts!
I will often 'cheat' the starts if they're particularly hard; then come back to them if I decide I can do the rest of the problem. Or just leave it until another day when I'm better :).
Cheers for the thoughts all, was a bit busy yesterday before climbing, but shall have to note down the ideas on a bit of paper so I can properly try everything out next time :).
I'm still pretty new at this whole climbing thing, but someone showed me a good technique that really helped me on sit starts.
Sounds similar to things others have said, but here it is (and forgive me if I'm not using the correct terms etc):
Keep your arms straight, just hanging from the first holds.
Get your toes on the first two foot holds.
Rotate one knee inwards towards the other leg - this starts pulling you into towards the wall, and also raises you up a bit. You'll start bending this leg as you come inwards.
Once your hip is quite close in, you can push up on the leg which is now bent, or if not feasible you can often then pull forward to rock over onto the bent leg, and then push up.
Hope that makes sense.
But like others have said, if you don't like the sit-starts, don't do them :)
I don't always, but I try to if possible as its all good practise :)
sometimes it helps to sit down into the problem from the first holds, dont know if this is cheating
Elsewhere on the site
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more