UKC

Bouldering Near Oxford?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
haw4th 03 Sep 2012
Hello all,

I just moved to Oxford from California and am already missing the sunshine, though recent weather has been quite nice. Any leads on bouldering around here? I'm trying to go through the other posts, but I end up having to look up EVERY town to see if it's close. Still getting familiar with the geography, I suppose.

Also, any information on local rock clubs would be appreciated. I'm looking to get oriented and find a cheap pair of slippers (used) for my warm-up rounds.

Many thanks!
 stewieatb 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th:

Oxford University Mountaineering Club is open to the general public, as Oxford isn't very rocky I think it may be the only local club. Unfortunately outside full term it isn't very active within the city, particularly during the summer vac. There is a pretty well-equipped indoor wall at Oxford Brookes sports centre, which I'm sure you know about, and also a hilariously small wall at Iffley Road Sports Centre. Unfortunately I know of no local bouldering or climbing - the nearest places are the Peak District, south coast (Swanage) or various bits of Wales. The club seems to be mostly an organising forum for trips to places worth climbing at! I may be wrong though, get in touch with OUMC: http://users.ox.ac.uk/~climbing/amb_site/HOME/ I'm not actively involved as I have other sporting commitments when I'm in college.

You say you've come to be with your wife - is she a student or does she work for the uni?
 Jamie Wakeham 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th:

As Stewieatb suggests, joining the OUMC is probably your best bet - we've a large contingent of non-student members so we're active all year round; there's been a car going somewhere most weekends over the summer. Come the start of term there'll be minibuses away almost every weekend. Joining the club also gives you access to the wall at the Iffley Road gym, which is probably better than its reputation suggests...

We meet every Wednesday in the Gardener's Arms in Jericho (ie the one on Plantation Road, not the one on North Parade) at 9pm - come along and say hello!

To answer your original question - there's very little bouldering nearby. You'd have to be pretty desperate to try either the Oxford Boulder (a tiny construction in Blackbird Leys) or Horspath (a disused railway bridge). The nearest real rock is Cleeve Hill in Cheltenham, about an hour away - it's worth a look but probably won't entertain you for more than a trip or two at most. Our day trips are generally to the Peak District, Wye Valley or Portland/Swanage - all are between 2 1/2 and 3 hours away.

Cheers
Jamie
 Andy Fielding 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th:
In the header bar click on "Logbooks" then "Find Crags Map". Just type in Oxford plus a search radius and you'll see there aren't many green spots within 50 miles of you. I'm about 40miles north of you and most of the time end up in the Peak District. Hope that helps. Andy
 jacobjlloyd 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th: Hey dude - I'm another Oxford local that despairs about the lack of climbing. There are quite a few of us. Get to know people and there will be someone driving somewhere most weekends.
OUMC are a good bunch, as mentioned, though if its bouldering and sport climbing you're looking for they won't always be going to your ideal crags.
The thing to do in the UK is trad climbing, as I'm sure you're aware. If you're not used to climbing everything on gear, get used to it. All the best routes are trad climbs, not that much is bolted, so to get the most out of British climbing you've got to get your cams out.
That said, bouldering on grit is fantastic. Get yourself to the Peak district asap!
I am very psyched at the minute but slightly injured, so won't be doing anything for a month or so while I heal. Shame. But at least that means if you want to go and are desperate for a pad and/or guidebook, you could swing by on the way and borrow mine - I wont be using it.
Probably see you around soon enough
 quiffhanger 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th:

Your best bouldering options are, in rough order of proximity (and reverse order of how good it is):

a) Ifley wall
b) Oxford Brookes climbing wall
c) The Somerfield traverse (aka waitrose traverse nowadays), Headington
d) Portland
e) Dartmoor
f) Peak district
g) Fontainebleau

There's also a little bit around the Bristol area, South Wales & Swanage although they are all generally better for routes.

I'll be heading up to the Gritstone quite regularly through the winter for some bouldering & will prob have space in the car.

See this thread for more Oxford climbing esoterica: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=364985

-ross
 Ramblin dave 03 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th: The good news is that being American and hence used to living in a country that isn't really small, you'll probably find that what us brits think of as "a really long drive" to get to any proper climbing, you'll think of as "just around the corner".
pasbury 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

It sounds like Oxford needs some of these artificial boulders dropping in a park somewhere.
 Howardw1968 03 Sep 2012
In reply to pasbury:
It has one on blackbird leys estate not the nicest of areas
 rig 04 Sep 2012
In reply to stewieatb:
A quick correction, OUMC is not the only club in the area. There is also Oxford Brookes Climbing club who I believe take community member (can any of their people confirm this?) and the Oxford Mountaineering Club (see fozzybear's post for the website).

I'm in the OMC, we have 2 meets a month to destinations all over the country and abroad (we're heading for Yorkshire this weekend and Devon in a couple of weeks). We haunt the Brookes wall Wednesday evenings from around 7:30 until 9:30-10ish.

In terms of bouldering, you're best bet is the Peak District. It can be visited in a day from Oxford if you are keen enough.
haw4th 05 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th:

Wow, great responses guys. Thanks! I'll check out the OUMC tonight at the Gardener's Arms. It seems like a pretty sweet deal for getting a feel for climbing in the greater-Britain area and I'm keen to get out.

Yeah, I'm here with my wife. She's a Rhodes Scholar at the University for one more year, just finishing up her first MSc program.

I very well may hit you up for that pad, Jacob. I had to let mine go for the move over; would've cost more to ship than it's worth. Rest up and let's get out for some bouldering! I have to admit, I've been in law school so long I haven't been out much, but now that's over so I'm stoked.

Look forward to meeting people and climbing. I've an off-peak membership at Brookes. It's nice to have the place to myself in the morning. I'll check out the Iffley gym soon. I have heard tell of it's (less-than) grandeur, but new routes are new routes.

Best,
haw4th 05 Sep 2012
In reply to quiffhanger:

That would be killer to head up with you. That would be bouldering, hey? If you do have space, my email is haw4th@gmail.com. Drop a line!

Best,
 Jamie Wakeham 05 Sep 2012
In reply to haw4th: we'll be there from 9pm (some might be there earlier) - just ask at the bar for us.

Worth pointing out you need OUMC membership to climb at Iffley, but we could sort that out tonight if you like.

Cheers
Jamie

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...