/ Mammut Genesis v Phoenix
My pheonix are still going at 5 years old! I think I'll get atleast another year or two out of them yet!
One thing to consider though is on 8mm having two seconds or climbing soley on one rope and then the other is not as safe (due to getting cut more easily). Also if you fall off a lot they will loose elasticity faster.
Personally my next ropes will be 8.5 mm but thats because most my climbing will not be in winter now and doesn't involve a lot of climbing with long walk ins now i don't live in scotland.
The longevity of the ropes won't factor in to it as they last long enough.
I climb less trad now I live in the SE though probably on average 15-20 weekends a year or something.
Also you have ease of breaking to consider. Hard falls on 8mm ropes can be hard to hold on trad belay devices. Even devices designed for smaller ropes like the buggette will not perform as well as thicker ropes. If the buggette will hold falls better on 8mm than a ATC-XP will on 8.5 mm is something I don't know (maybe ask Jimtitt), but personally I would buy two skinny rope belay devices if you intend to use 8mm.
Out of interest why would you not get the genesis in 60 m for euro ice?
I carry a bugette in case the belayer has an unsuitable device i.e. one without grooves/teeth.
I've climbed on Phoenixs for a good 6 years now, trad, winter, ice, sea cliffs et al. Had no issue with wear & held several large falls on a variety of plates. Would def recommend something with grooves or teeth though - I use a guide or XP Pro.
Worth having 60s in my opinion for long abs - used the full lenghth several times this week in the Pass. Also good to be able to climb another 10m into trouble on cold Scottish winter climbs ;)
Cheers for the comments. I've just ordered a pair of 50m phoenix from V12 :-)
Its as much the weight you're dragging behing you if you've run out 40 - 5o metres.
I guess it depends how much euro ice you intend to climb on the ropes as compared to how much trad. Personally I've found rope drag more of an issue in summer than winter, but I take your point. Having owned pheonixes for quite a while the main advantage i've noticed is reduced size and weight for long walk ins, but the rope drag in summer is overall somewhat noticeably lower I think too.
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