/ UKC fit club 286

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Daniel Heath - on 09 Sep 2012
Strong week for UKCFC with 7cs from Si_dH and Curious Yellow and first 7a flash for Eagle River!
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (285) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=518456&v=1#x7002281
Posters:
Joughton – Still consistent indoors and out! Well done on Goose Creature, classic slate climbing.
Biscuit – Thanks mate I think I’ll be buying those scales with birthday money. That’s dedication to Aerocap training! I didn’t get on with foot on fingerboarding.
IainRUK – I would be tired with 3 sessions the day before a race. I don’t know how you do it.
Ian Bell – 2 Sessions isn’t bad if that’s all you have time for. Autobelays are guaranteed to get you pumped as well!
AJM – Sounds like a great trip. 6 pitch 6c sounds awesome.
Grubes – Good week. Maybe a rest from the 7a would be helpful, you’ll come back with a fresh mind.
NMN – Great news on the race mate, well done.
JimmyKay – Strong week Jimmy. Mile reps takes some motivation. Systems was my first (only) 7b although it took me more than one session.
Mrchewey – Sounds like some good sessions. No doubt you’ll have an adventure to report when you return later! Congrats on your birthday weight loss :P
Eagle River – First 7a flash, cracking effort mate.
Maria85 – Busy week, well done completing all your short term goals.
Kevster – Strong performance indoors. Looking forward to hearing about Lundy.
Mattrm – Nice specific goals. You can put full effort into footwork when you’re warming up as you have lots of spare energy to think about what you’re doing. Finger strength is always useful.
Pebbles – Wow great week, lead falls indoors and out is good for your confidence.
Quiddity – It’s impressive how structured your training is at the moment. I hope you feel the long term benefits.
Ali – Great volume of training this week.
Sankey – Well done getting on a 7a. I just remembered High Tor Right wing – have you been there before? Worth a trip, a couple of the steep 6b/cs are fun.
Curious Yellow – Huge congrats on 7c mate!
Si_dH – Well done again, now take this on trad and you’ll crush 
Ayuplass – Quiet week, looking forward to seeing your plan of action work out!
Hokkyokusei – Good week, maybe fit the climbing in next week?
Daniel Heath - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

S-Bouldering at the Curnet, still didn't feel full strength after 9 days on.
Managed 7A and tried Simple Simon lots
M-Easy run but felt so fatigued, some kind of virus maybe
T-Back to the old woodie after 10 weeks. Amazing felt stronger than before! A little less power but more finger strength. So psyched.

Peak Bivy Trip, climbed with guys from UKC lifts and partners.
W-Ramshaw - Browns crack, and projected Ramshaw crack - 4th E4 :)
T-Millstone - Regent St direct and Coventry St to the cave. Time for Tea. Feel really solid on peg scars now, placed 2 pieces of gear on Embankment 3.
F-Stanage (slept in Robin Hood's Cave) - Soloed FBD, Easter Rib and Kirkus' Corner. 3 E1s with the whole crag to myself, amazing feeling!
Cratcliffe - 5 finger exercise and Savage Messiah
S-Circuits at the new Climbing Station, Loughborough.

So in summary I have psyche coming out of my ears now. 26 E points in 3 days. I had a race on with a friend to see who OS an E4 first. Tom Randall said Coventry Street to the Cave is E4, so that's my first E4 OS :)

I also had a look at the ticklist for London Wall. Coventry St felt quite easy. I've done all the routes except High St which I was saving. I'm just psyched to get that out the way, then train a bit and London Wall is becoming a realistic proposition!
JimmyKay - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Looks like you had an awesome week Dan. Simple Simon is the hardest 7b there. I doubt there would be many who would argue if it was upgraded to 7b+. Which bit were you getting too?
Daniel Heath - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Held the left crimp above the second rail, couldn't do the next move.
JimmyKay - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

That bugger is sharp. If I can remember right, you turn the heel into a toe there and rock over to the next right hand hold.

Alternatively, you could try skipping that hold + not using a heel? Campus from the rail to the hold up and left. Takes a bit of getting used to, but once you latch it once, you'll get it everytime!

That route was a bit of siege for me. I fell off the top and ended up rolling down the bank many a time.
Joughton on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Sounds like a strong week Dan, well done on your first E4 o/s! I haven't done it but my Dad reckons it's worth E4 to the cave too, how did it look above that? I've had a look at that ticklist too, I need High street and Coventry Street - hope you get London Wall soon!

A decent week for me, I've done a lot on grit trying to train my weaknesses and I think it's starting to slowly pay off.

Mon - Bamford, warmed up on Gargoyle Flake then onsighted Jetrunner, a boldish but safe slab E4 - first E4 o/s on natural grit.
Tue - Did a big press up + core session, didn't realise how out of shape I was! Found it hard.
Wed - rest, shoulders and triceps feeling sore
Thurs - rest, still feeling sore!
Fri - Went to the wall, laps. Did 7c, 7a, 7c. Didn't top either 7c but got really pumped which is good. Rested, then 3x7a+ topping each one. Didn't feel great but felt like it would make me fitter.
Sat - Higgar Tor, worse place to go after an evening of laps! Warmed up on the File, glad my jamming has improved. Then onsighted the Rasp - the thing is brutal! I've never climbed so poorly in my life, it just exposes all your weaknesses... after that I did another E2 which was much easier. James Pearson turned up to do a film for Wild Country, and effortlessly lead Bat Out of Hell, an E5, twice. Richie asked if I wanted to follow the route, so I was lent a Wild Country harness and chalk bag and filmed seconding it. Very nearly fell off but I think I was fairly determined to impress so I struggled through. For such a wad he's a very nice guy, who was happy to chat and give advice which was helpful.
Sun - feeling beaten up! No skin on my hands, aching everywhere!

Doing lots of laps and fitness at the moment because I've only just realised British Champs are in a month so I need to get training! Hoping to make the final.

Cheers, Jake
biscuit - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

What a great few weeks it's been for people. Well done everyone. After being a bit un-psyched for a few months really ( not wanting to stop climbing or anything just not had the psyche for trying hard ) reading everyone's successes really gets me going.

Obviously not a lot done this week with my ribs. I climbed on Mon, Tue and Wed routes up to 6a+. Certain moves are fine and certain moves hurt. Had the rest of the week off and i am going to try getting back on the fingerboard tomorrow.

Tried running but everytime my feet hit the floor it hurt. As i haven't figured out how to run without my feet hitting the floor that has gone for now as well.

So i have stepped on the scales a couple of times this week and they say 12.5% average. Not good, lost a lot of ground there but to be expected with little exercise and a bit of comfort eating going on.

Building a training board this week specifically for my 7c project. It;s going to be adjustable angle with campus rungs up the middle, for foot on PE work, and 2 banister rail pieces down the outsides for training drainpipe tufas. Then i am going to crush Hasta Luega Luca when Eagle River comes over and smash 7c shortly after - i hope.
grubes - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – Good week. Maybe a rest from the 7a would be helpful, you’ll come back with a fresh mind.

Cheers Daniel, Had an easy week this week well sort of.


STG (end of Nov):
7a in Chorro
Onsight 6c in or before Chorro
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Trad Saturday - Tick
Sport/Bouldering Sunday - Fail .. hungover
Mid week session - Tick

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Buckstones worked a few 6B's unsuccessfully.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Stanage bouldering and trad. Repeated several boulder problems up to 6A+.
Then moved onto peak soft touch E1s (probs HVS) Lead millsom Minions and Namenlos (not even hard at HVS ...). I then tried Living at speed was brutal in that heat just getting nothing out of the rock.
S: Hungover got in about 3 probs not leaving the houses or the sofa. Maybe some core later.

Next Weeks goals:
Climb more!!

Not done much this week but happy with the soft touches. I really wanted to try and ground up telli but the heat just made it not an option I will try it in winter. We sacked it off about 4 on saturday and went to the pub. Far too hot to climb.
Richard Popp - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan and apologies for not posting. Feeling pschyed (cant beleive I typed that but what the hell) though struggling to get out-work pressures and now three teenagers to be fostered for two and a half weeks.

Week 284
M-Fingerboard and stretch
T-Swimming-really pushed myself to swim half a mile as quick as possible, but did not note time.
W-Fingerboard and stretches.
T-Not much though my brother came to stay who had never tried a beastmaker before , almost unbeleivably I held the 45degree sloper for a few secs, also messing around crimping as I tend to climb everything open handed.
F-Fingerboard
S-brean, warmed up then got on Chepito, did not tick it but only worked it on lead and took a proper fall, easily worked out all the moves and almost got it on the redpoint, pleased considering how little rock I haave been doing.
S-Rest

Week 285
M-Fingerboard and stretching
T Swimming, again pushed myself to keep going as fast as possible.
W Fingerboard-clidren arive-eek!
T multiple meeting in Conwall
F Mulitple meetings in Cornwall
S Brain dead, but mamoth digging session in garden, removed huge tree root, flailing with an axe.
S Fingerbaord

Although I am not getting out I feel stronger and more focussed than I have done for ages. Hope to get out or to the wall (poor second) during the week this week. Once the kids have gopne I have got plenty of time to get my leading head on before kalymnos, not perfect lead up but am very much up for climbing generally.

STG (April)-repeat/red-point 6c (tick) lead HVS
MTG (October) red-point 7a, lead E2 (would love to do Ahimsa but not sure how realistic that is)

7A 0/1, 6c+ 0/2, 6c 4/4, 6b+ 7/8
E3 0/1, E2 0/2, E1 0/4, HVS 0/8

LTG (April 2013) On-sight 7a, lead E4(????!!!!)

Rich
JimmyKay - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M- 9k run.
T- Nothing
W- Nothing
T- Route session at RP up to 7a+
F- Nothing
S- Boulder session @ RP
S- Might go for a run this evening.

First week of work has hit my exercise schedule hard.
hokkyokusei - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> Hokkyokusei – Good week, maybe fit the climbing in next week?

Didn't get to the wall or meet my other targets this week, but only because I was away hiking in the lakes for much of it. Weather was great apart from being almost blown away in the early hours of Wednesday morning, bagged 24 assorted hills and tops. Hmmm, I think counting them may be a slippery slope!

m - Hiking - 19.51 km (Coledale Hause to Bleaberry Tarn)
t - Hiking - 9.13 km (Bleaberry Tarn to Blackbeck Tarn)
w - Hiking - 14.99 km (Blackbeck Tarn to Sprinkling Tarn)
t - Hiking - 9.75 km(Sprinkling Tarn to Rosthwaite)
f -
s - Running - 5km (Lister Park parkrun 23:57, 9s off my PB)
s -

STG
Cycle at least 40 km / week
Run at least 15 km / week
Get to the climbing wall once / week

MTG
Lose weight. I'd like to see how 75 kg feels (currently 82)
Run faster & further (not necessarily in combination)
Do some multipitch climbing

LTG
Climb big mountains.
Avoid a heart attack.
Eagle River - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan, you've made what appeared like an off-the-boil week for me sound like a major step forward!

Goals: 7b+ by end of 2012, hasta luego luca at Loja.

Mon: Still feeling unwell, climbing Sunday set me back a bit but I needed to get out. Climbed indoors but wanting to not aggravate the finger and feeling really lethargic I didn't do much.

Thurs: feeling better so went to boulder UK. stayed away from the crimps so went upstairs to do the circuit. There's a nice 7b up there which I got around cleanly first go then did a further 4/5times each time trying to get around twice but falling off on the horizontal roof bit the second time around. Felt really sore the day after so must've done some work.

Didn't get outdoors this weekend as we went to see the gold & bronze medal matches of the paralympic wheelchair basketball. It was awesome.

4 weeks till spain. Need to sort the finger & elbows by then. Now, who has a spare oxygen chamber knocking about??
Eagle River - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

> ...and 2 banister rail pieces down the outsides for training drainpipe tufas. Then i am going to crush Hasta Luega Luca when Eagle River comes over.

Bosh!

Although i think what's separating us from success on that route is knee pads. I'm going to come over prepared in that aspect!

NMN - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)

M - 3.29m treadmill, 1.9%.
T - 4.08m road run, 43ft.
W - 7.02m trail/road run, 412ft.
T - 6.15m trail run, 654ft.
F - 8.07m trail run, 841ft.
S - 5.28m trail run, 619ft.
S - 7.03m trail run, 760ft.
Joughton on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Small update - I had a nice evening out bouldering with Jon, my skin was pretty trashed so I mostly kept to easy stuff but flashed a very soft 6B+ and a couple of 6Bs.
ayuplass - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Mon - kettle bell circuit
Tues - kb circuit and core
Weds - bouldering at Lindley Moor.
Thurs - Wharncliffe led Hell Gate (VD) and 2nd VD &VS
fri - rest
Sat - widdop. Led HVD, 2nd VD, Sev and VS. Great day!
Sun - bouldering at Leeds wall. 1 hr 30 mins up to V2 and worked some V3

POW! had a great week climbing wise! Really got my mojo back. Unfortunately I haven't got much chance of repeating this for this week, not sure I can fit any climbing in at all but I am determined to keep up the exercise side if I can't climb
Si dH - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan, and nice one on another v impressive week.

Since doing Stone the Loach on Tuesday, Ive done nothing this week. Lack of sleep, intense climbing and intense work all added up to being knackered the rest of the week. Then had various eating & drinking events this weekend, had a good time. Hoping to get back to it this week although still going to be mental at work and wont be climbing next weekend either, so might be difficult.
mattrm - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for doing fit club this week Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no progress)
2 - Improve finger strength (need to buy a fingerboard...)
3 - Improve footwork
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs

M - Rest
T - South Wales area meeting
W - 8k run
T - SWMC Committee Meeting
F - Rest
S - 10k run up Pen-y-Fan
S - Lots of DIY

It's been a very busy week. OMM training is moving on nicely, 8k run and 10k fast walk/bit of running up Pen-y-Fan. Didn't get any climbing in thanks to a double whammy of club committee meeting and area meeting. Area meeting was interesting, there is a small glimmer of hope that we might get an access arrangement for Pant Quarry, which is a local quarry that's as big as Malham, potentially the best sport climbing in South Wales. It's about 10 mins from my house, so would be excellent to have decent access there. Going to start on the diet properly next week. Fingerboard will be ordered as I think I can *just* afford it. I'll get an easy bouldering session, focusing on footwork. So that's progress on all three goals. Really been slack on my continuous goal, so going to get back to doing that. Feeling quite motivated at the moment, so will have to transfer that into effort with training.

On the house front we've finished the bathroom. So that's just the kitchen, dining room, hallway and middle bedroom to go. Not much then...

Well done to all the other fit clubbers on the recent big climbs. I'm going to go on a charge and see if I can catch up with you all...

JimmyKay - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Jimmykay:

S- 5K, managed to put in a 18:56 this evening.
biscuit - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> [...]
>
> Bosh!
>
> Although i think what's separating us from success on that route is knee pads. I'm going to come over prepared in that aspect!

Ah but will kneepads actually make it a 7a+ ? I know 2 females who have done it so can it really be a 7b ?

If you don't get my drift have a look at Sharks thread about Mecca on UKB. Classic.

Back on topic. 4 weeks ! Better get my finger out.
JimmyKay - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to Eagle River)
> [...]
>
> If you don't get my drift have a look at Sharks thread about Mecca on UKB. Classic.

Just had a read of that. Haha. Oh dear.

mrchewy - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Daniel - good to see you moving forward too.

Birthday week, so diet went astray from Thursday! Skye cancelled due to less than perfect weather forecast.

Weight 80.6kg - did drop under 80 before birthday
Bodyfat 25.5%
Target 75kg and 18%

Set some goals for my 47th year which are

1 - Climb 6b in a style I'm happy with.
2 - Still be able to treat the W3000s as a training day.
3 - Solo the Eiger by the west side... this may be a waiting game and down to the weather like this year.
4 - Lead some VS routes and an E1.
5 - FINISH my kitchen!

M - 3hrs in the boulder room. just rainbowed around on small hand holds, trying to get some confidence in my fingers. The V2 was gonna be nailed but Alex was stripping that panel ready for a reset. Seconded an overhanging 6a+ to the fourth clip and my fingers just faded. 7hrs bouldering in 30hrs had done for them.
T - rest
W - Some leading for a change. Warmed up in the boulder room, led two F5, two F5+, got battered by a slab 5+ and then tried a 6a that gets steeper and overhangs - 4th clip. Got some new shoes after. Took a leader fall, my first ever indoor. I climbed shockingly to be honest.
T - Birthday. 7 bags of hoola hoops and a nice meal out with the kids.
F - Drive to Wales.
S - Castell Helen, Gogarth. First time on sea cliffs. Very steep and something I'm not used to. Seconded. Lighthouse Arete, the first pitch of Atlantis and the we did North West Passage. Amazing position! No slips, falls or sitting on the rope and had a right struggle getting a blue offset out but took rests when I could. The best climbing I've ever done, neat and controlled.
S - Ran 3.38 miles.Went up to the Cromlech and seconded Cemetary Gates. Was utterly mullered from the day before, got pumped on the crux and finally peeled off. Had a think, tried a different move to Dale and got over it at the expense of being too knackered for the rest of it. Fell a further 4 times! Never fallen when seconding before, so was a bit unhappy. Got to the top tho. Wicked abb off.

So Skye didn't happen but happy with the Cromlech and Gogarth! Climbed really well on Saturday. I can honestly say I climbed with my feet, the new shoes really helped. Even managed to find good rests and hands off a couple of times. All in all - turning 47 is going well.

Started running at least 5k everyday for the next 50 days.


AJM - on 09 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Knee pads are awesome. I need to buy one before Rodellar...
AJM - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Indoor/training priorities
  • Desperately get fit!
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - before October sport trip if it happens
  • Maintain fitness and sport head
  • Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+ [done: all but a 7c]

<MTG> - 2012
  • Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7b, 4/4 x 7b+, 1/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+)
  • 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 9 x E2 onsight, 2 x E3 onsight, 1 x E3 ground-up]
  • 7a+ onsight

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something


M: Millstone. Shattered,mfrankly, from the quick turnaround, lack of sleep, early start and long day. Tried to muster psyche and failed. Seconded some great VS and HVS routes though - gnr, Lyons corner house, bond st, that sort of thing
T: Gimmer. Sunny and windless at parking, slight haze and breeze at gearing up spot, no sun and blowing some out on the ledge! Too cold, psyche for anything much let alone anything hard vanished. Did an easy route then bailed to the raven odg crags and did an HVS
W: Eskdale. Gormenghast, quality route, in the morning. Then went to Bell Stand in the afternoon and onsighted the puzzle book, an E2 corner with some tricky moves which I think is perhaps my first of the grade on granite. Seconded an E1 and an HvS too
T: Reecastle crag. Warmed to up the finger flake finish, a classic E2, and onsighted guillotine, a classic E3. Happy days :) Seconded a hard E1 after that too. Started to drizzle after that though.
F: Partner of the previous days headed off and other mates were at work so went to Kendal wall. mixed my time up between the circuit board and the pump tunnel "routing roof". On the circuit board I think I onsighted 5, 6b, 6c and (pleasingly) 7a circuits. Had a number of goes on the 7b circuit, some decent links but no tick, a slopy crimp spat me off each time on redpoint. On the routing roof I onsighted 6b, 6b+ and (pleasingly) 6c+ circuits. Had a few goes on the 7a which I didn't get on with and a few goes on the 7b which I quite enjoyed, long moves between pockets and things. Got about half way up on my onsight go and managed to ish it a bit beyond that on subsequent redpoints. Battered!
S: Cratcliff. Not such a good day. Tried Fern Hill - hold where the breaks split covered in loose dirt, decided I didn't like it, came down. Tried 5 finger exercise but not in the right way, more because I thought I should than because I really felt right about it. Came down. Still, 2 onsights to play for still. Rescued things slightly by nailing Razor Roof in about 10 minutes right at the end - sharp crimps much more my bag obviously! First 6C, although I've definitely done harder on route cruxes, no question, it's more because I don't boulder I suppose. Disappointed with the routes performance, although I suppose objectively it wasn't prime grit weather, I haven't climbed natural grit in a year or more and I'd been climbing all week. Ho-hum.
S: Churnet. A day of exploration as much as anything else. Had a few goes on Ousal Low and on bits of the Virgin wall traverse, got a good pump on on those, although as ever I also got shat on by some very easy graded problems as well. Bouldering grades are still a mystery to me ;)

So, I'm back at home. Admittedly after 2 hours on a tow truck last night and a trip to the garage this morning which required no less than 4 jump starts in 4 miles (alternator gone). I'm a few kg heavier than when I left, not terribly surprising given the lower intensity of the trad week, the general lack of diet control on trips and so on, but an amount that's probably shiftable by the time I go to Rodellar.

Should have a day out Wednesday at Cheddar - if I can finish Circus Circus that's my 7c+ pyramid ticked off - and a few other training sessions plus some more outdoor stuff too. Bumbly trad at the weekend although I might be able to squeeze something harder in if we pass by an enticing route. Only a few onsights left and I'll have hit the 20 too - nearly completed all my years goals, get a head start on next year ;)

I think despite the lower intensity of the trad I managed to just about keep Rodellar training on course with the bouldering/pe traversing over the weekend and the pe workout at Kendal. Plus the Reecastle day probably straddled the aerocap/aeropower zone somewhere and the rest has maybe helped me capillarise. Still, aim for some higher intensity stuff in training/outdoor this week.
grubes - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
wow now that is an impressive week!

after 4 days on you hit the wall and climbed near ish your limit
The next day you ticked your first 6C
Even in the heat from saturday you managed to do something on Sunday.

Fitness is showing there.
you have climbed everyday and seemed to achive something every day.

Well done mate!
Eagle River - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Yep, been following that thread, it's hilarious (especially the comment on Simon's new 8a at the tor).

To be fair Hasta felt about 7c without the pads so with them it might possibly feel like 7b. Maybe.
Ian Bell - on 10 Sep 2012
10 more 7a (5/14)
2x7a+ (1/2)
1x7b

STG - 2 WW sessions (done) & RP 7a at the weekend (fail)

Hi all and congrats for some big crushing going down the last few weeks.

T - WW and some routes around 6c ish. Decent session.
T - WW bouldering. WIBL 21-29 in the fridge, most flashed. Pleased with this, little bouldering recently and I've never managed that many in one session. To flash 29 was also a big improvement for me.
S - Harper Hill quarry. Did 2 of the top 50s (Coral Sea 6a & Apollo Creed 6b) both of which were excellent. Tried Cairn (7a/+) but couldn't manage to get to the 2nd bolt, above that it looked OK. OS a couple fo terrible 6a ish routes on the lower tier to finish.
S - Stanage. Lead a VS and than backed off another. Actually not too bothered to back off, glad I was sensible enough to do it. Then led Tower Face (HVS) which I'd had my eye on for a bit. First HVS since breaking my leg / back on one 2 years ago so very happy to do that. After all the sport felt really easy but still scared on the crux (needlessly as the gear was bomber).

STG this week is 2 more WW sessions again and (weather permitting) Portland on Sunday. Aiming to RP Through the Barricades (7a+) and hoping to help my gf RP her first 7a (sacred angel). Success would be either of us doing either, both would be extra success!

Kalymnos 10 days and counting!
maria85 - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Last week's goals:
- Off to Valle d'orca in Italy for the next few days - want to come back having led 6a crack, and got on at least 6b on TR/dogged. -YES
- One longer run this week, 15km or so. Looking to build back up to ~20km in the next couple of weeks. -FAIL. Week seemed to run away with me, didn't get it in early enough in the week.
- Do some more leg strength stuff. 3 sessions. -FAIL ALSO
- Get on another 6a+ -Got on several, didn't complete though
- Some falling again if at a suitable crag -YES

M: Nothing. Drove to Italy in rain.
T: Everything still damp so went to only overhanging sport crag in area. TR'd 2x6a+, 1x6b. One 6a+ nearly clean (fell off once then did the move 2nd go), other two dogged. REALLY not used to this overhanging juggy stuff at the moment, alpine rock has killed my strength. Looking forward to getting in the gym more. Got on lead on a 6a before leaving, too pumped to finish it but I did take some falls :-)
W: 3 different crags chasing dry rock. First off, 6a lead, fine. Then fell off a 6a+ - pumpy again and my arms didn't have it in them after Tuesday. Next crag, led a 5c crack, great climbing. Also a 5b. Next managed to struggle up a 6a jamming crack, led cleanly which I am SO happy with :-) Feel like my jamming is improving lots. Only thing not happy with is that I absolutely laced it - need to work on running it out above (good) gear more. Drove home, got a speeding ticket :(
T: Nothing. Tired.
F: Still nothing. No excuses for this.
S: Cragging - 2nd 5c pitch, followed by getting on a 6b I've had my eye on for a while. Had underestimated how pumpy it was, technically the moves felt easy but was so pumped by the 2nd last bolt I couldn't hold on anymore. Dogged it on TR after.
S: Climbed the Index SW Ridge again, in approach shoes this time. Boyfriend's birthday so didn't think going for a 15km run after would go down too well ;-) Ate too much cake.

This week's goals:
- 15km run early in the week! 3 runs total.
- Big day in the Aig. Rouge - maybe Aig. du Pouce?
- Leg strength stuff again.
- Not feeling too psyched on cragging, but maybe again by end of week?
IainRUK - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
m: am: 6 mile fell run in glyders. pm: 5 mile trail run in the peak district.
t: am: 13 mile trail run in the peak. pm: 9 mile, 700m ascent fell run Moel Cynghorion.
w: Steady 5 mile run, 3 5 min reps. pm: 30 miles on road bike.
t: easy 4.5 mile run up Siabod. starting to rest up.
f: rest travel to switzerland
s: easy 4.5 miler early morning
s: Jungfrau Marathon. World Long Distance Mountain Running champs. 3:31. 53rd. Happy with that really..

Now need to up it a bit.. totally dropped the climbing now, get to 100mpw, lose a a good few kilo's and aim for a marathon pm: mid-low 2:30's by March.
IainRUK - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Just to add JM is incredible. Super crowds, organisation. Bascially 14-15 miles flat on roads, a few trails.. then as one runner said you now enter hell. 1600m of ascent up winding switchbacks and forest trails over the next 11 miles or so. Very runnable so you can totally destroy yourself, lots suffer quite horrific blow ups.. deffo one to be recomended but not a fell race, a proper european style mountain race.
mrchewy - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Sounds horrendous BUT in a good way! Top effort Iain and very inspiring.
AJM - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

That's a good way to look at it - hopefully building up the "multiple days on"/"full day out" stamina. Cheers Luke!

Now if only I could get confirmation of when my wretched car will be fixed, I could plan this week properly!
maria85 - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Just been reading everyone else's posts through, some great weeks there! Good effort everyone :)
grubes - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: Use it as forced time to job hunt? (or look at guide books for psyche ..)
Hopefully the cars not in too bad shape.

As I said to other andy the other week. Anyday you are climbing you achieve more than a day sat staring at a computer (what I do all week) even if its not at your limit is all good exercise.

From a thread a while ago there was a quote from Tom Randell used in this thread which I can't find right now.

biscuit - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Gormenghast is a great route in my favourite valley. Never hard but a bit spicy on the crux pitch.

Reecastle is awesome isn't it ? Not done Guillotine on lead but well done it's a great climb. With that and FFF you obviously have the fitness. What was the E1 ? Was it the ramp on the right ? The name escapes me at the minute. Hilarious move to get onto the ramp. I was later shown the proper way with technique.

I wasn't sure about the circuit board at Kendal. I on-sighted the 7a and got round it twice before stepping off. Seemed a bit too easy to me, though i hope they've reset it since then as this was a few months ago. The routing roof was V hard though if you couldn't figure a move out you couldn't hang around to figure it out.

A great week.

I am sharing you car misery. Mine has conked out 3 times this week. Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't. If it doesn't start leave it for an hour and it will start ??? Random. Off to get a new battery tomorrow and hope that fixes it.
biscuit - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

> From a thread a while ago there was a quote from Tom Randell used in this thread which I can't find right now.

If it's the on i'm thinking of it was along the lines of doing anything is better than nothing. It was aimed at people prevaricating over training so much they forget that the important part is getting out and doing something.
NMN - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Well done - sounds brilliant.
Did you have a specific March time marathon in mind for a PB?
grubes - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit: Oh yeah thats the one could not remember exactly. guess its does not make sense here. Think I killed a few too many brain cells on saturday.

Teach me to cut down the booze to basically being T total then get obliterated ...

Off back to sleep still tired and a bit hungover.
pebbles - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Getting out in the rare summer sun at every chance last week!
monday - rest day
tuesday - still aching! Went to session at wall. climbing next day so worried about getting too tired, so stayed off the strenuous stuff (mostly) and worked on vertical and slabby technical routes. Turned out to be a good learning exercise as I was really trying not to over grip or faff before committing, because I felt every time I did so I was wasting strength that i would need the next day.
wednesday - went back to froggatt and really worked the route (chequers buttress)that I kept falling off, with the help of some friends coaching me on the moves. Then tried the lead again - and fell off. Bugger!
thursday - bouldered at almscliff. bit tired so just did traverses.
friday - same at brimham (needed a rest really but was lured out by sun and friend)
saturday. back to froggatt. CMC slab again, easy. two sided triangle - bit of a wibble but clean lead. Chequers buttress - fell off the bugger again!!! Decided the problem is that I have to do an intermediate move to reach the buttress, and because its the hardest move for me I hesitate and then I'm off. Because I always get it the second time after I'v had a initial fall! so next time must just do it with a bit more conviction, pretend I'm bouldering or something.
sunday. trad limestone on chee tor girdle. trad limestone scares me shitless, its so polished and loose! was absolutely gripped following on a route that is technically well within my grade. I'v avoided trad limestone so long I'v lost my head for it completely, oh dear. Am going to have to start getting back on the stuff again.
IainRUK - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to NMN: Entered Barcelona.. pretty cheap so entered and will see but looks likely..

Deffo recommend Jungfrau, don't go there expecting a UK fell race, but its a hugely unique experience, just something we can't get in the UK.. running uphill for that long on well surfaced tracks.. even had a huge avalanche go off the Monch I think as we ran past.. I heard it but didn't turn but it was supposedly pretty impressive.
biscuit - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Great result Iain and it sounds like a great, but horrendous, race. Really gruelling.
biscuit - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Just spotted your visit to Bell Stand. Beautiful little spot. Puzzle book is great isn't it ? Bear in mind it was first done on-sight solo by P Whillance. More bottle than i'll ever have.
mrchewy - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Gorgeous area - I went up from Grindlewald to your highest point just after the Ultra, running a fair bit of the way. Then carried on up to 2800m before running most of the way back down. As you say, huge height gain and really nice tracks and roads. I think I had one 'fell' type bit due to getting lost. I'd have had to have looked at Monch avalanching tho... that would have made for a stunning photo.
AJM - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Definitely want to go back to Reecastle, yes! Ace little crag. Probably next year now though. It was that ramp, yes - Gibbet it's called I think, a bit pokey for its grade!

I figured the circuits were maybe a bit soft - which one (or both) is wrong is open to question but before I went away I wasn't able to do one of the moves still on a 7a circuit at TCA, and I couldn't complete the 6c+ after several serious redpoints. The roof felt a bit easier than the one at the Arch in the easier grades but then I haven't been on that in ages so harder to compare.

In other news I've done as promised and started to write some crap about the places I visited over the summer. Verdon is now done, Loup will take longer as I've got more to say but anyway progress so far is at: http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/ - comments welcomed.
AJM - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

> Just spotted your visit to Bell Stand. Beautiful little spot. Puzzle book is great isn't it ? Bear in mind it was first done on-sight solo by P Whillance. More bottle than i'll ever have.

Certainly is a fun little route, had me thinking for some time. As for solo - I was a lot happier when I hit the good gear, so you're not the only one whose lacking the bottle ;)
IainRUK - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy: Its a unique race to do if you like the crowds.. I think I can go quicker so want to go again but reckon its one of those races that just overdoing the first half could have catastrophic consequences.. so most of us ran fairly conservatively.. I moved through from 86th at half way to 53rd by the summit and was feeling good so reckon I could have pushed a bit earlier..
mrchewy - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Now you know what to expect, you can run your own race next time. Good stuff. Someone was telling me about the race when I stopped for a bite to eat under the north face of the Eiger, it sounded to me like it was the biggest/celebrated event of the summer in that area - there was a memorial plaque if I remember for some guy who'd won it lots.
oddtoast on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Right, moving from lurker to poster, hey all.

I'm a lot less active than most people here, but am trying to do something about that so here I am. Being young and an ok weight has led me to overlook exercise the past few years, and my fitness is pretty poor. My aim is to get fitter and stronger generally, and to become a better climber - to start with by simply getting my activity levels up.

As I'm new to climbing and exercise other than walking, my posts are going to look a little scant compared to others on this thread, but I'm just going to try stick to my goals and see how I do.

STG: Do some form of exercise x3 a week
Lead a 5+ indoors

MTG: Consolidate 5+ indoors
Reliable/confident lead belayer
Get outdoors more

LTG: Not sure yet, keep at it and improve.

S: Trad at Froggatt - First full day climbing outdoors, awesome.
S: Trad at Stanage - Lots of gear/belays practice, first lead, equally awesome.
M: knackered
T: knackered
W: 8 mile bike ride (cycle paths)
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: 1 hr indoor bouldering at red goat – first visit, V0/V1s, feeling good but skin gave out.
S: 1 hr lawn bowls – I’m counting that as exercise!
mrchewy - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to oddtoast: Welcome to the thread Odd - don't let other people's voluminous posts put you off, use them as motivation!
Curious Yellow - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks guys :-)

Biscuit - broken ribs must be so frustrating... with training board (I'm jealous) + psyche you'll be unstoppable once you're mended though.

Si_dH - high five! When's Kalymnos?

Mon - Castle.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. 12 greens inc 2x V5.
Thurs - Castle. Short session, tired. Most stuff up to V3 on slab.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cheyne Cliff. Back on Road Rage (aka the neverending project), first time this year. Best go six moves from top, guess that means I'm on redpoint, eeek.
Sun - Cuttings. Hall of Mirrors. Links in and out of the crux and did all the crux moves. Waiting for my pulled hamstring to fix before getting seriously stuck in though.
biscuit - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:

> Biscuit - broken ribs must be so frustrating... with training board (I'm jealous) + psyche you'll be unstoppable once you're mended though.

I hope so but the board is nothing to be jealous of. It's pure convenience and at 8ftx4ft is not going to provide much variation, but i am hopeful it could be the key to getting my project done.

> Sat - Cheyne Cliff. Back on Road Rage (aka the neverending project), first time this year. Best go six moves from top, guess that means I'm on redpoint, eeek.
> Sun - Cuttings. Hall of Mirrors. Links in and out of the crux and did all the crux moves. Waiting for my pulled hamstring to fix before getting seriously stuck in though.

Looks to me like you're on the brink of breaking through to a new level. Go for it.
leon on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: Nothing
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth(tick). Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: ??
Focus: Maintenance

Mon: Holiday.
Tue: Holiday.
Wed: Holiday.
Thu: Holiday.
Fri: Holiday.
Sat: Holiday.
Sun: Stanage Plantage(max e2).

Back from hols. Managed to sneak a day in @ Stanage on Sunday & bagged the e2 that I backed-off a few weeks ago. Still had problems committing to the crux, eventually convinced myself I had it figured and went for it (how it easy it turned out to be!!). Interesting comment from my climbing partner, consider all the things that concern you, answer them in your head & then put them in a box the same way you do after checking your knot before climbing.

Now I've got all my holidays & visiting out of the way I hope I can get back to more structured training. Going to focus on endurance and technique for the next 4 weeks.

STG: @ least 50 problems in one of the session with a focus on slabs & vertical walls. Keep an eye on nutritional in diet.
MTG: 70(too much??) problems in one session.
Si dH - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Cheers! Late October, cant wait :)
grubes - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
Nice blog andy. Well written pretty inspiring. Some of those crags look unbelievable .. I may have to go on another trip to verdon now ...




Much better than my assault on the English language but thats not hard is it :P
AJM - on 10 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

Cheers!

Bauchet didn't look like it had gotten so much traffic of late which is a shame as some of the routes are cracking. Rattlesnake, the 7b, was an awesome route, and Raison d'hetre looks really really good too. Hulk looks well worth a visit as well. As for Ramiroles - if I were ever good enough some of those multipitches wanting their way through the cave would have to be on the list! Definitely gives a bit of variety to the area...
Si dH - on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:
Jake, am I remembering wrong or did you say you did lyme cryme last wee? Its on my wishlist...rockfax says there are good large cams to protect instead of the crap peg(s) but I noticed you said it was bold...thoughts? Thanks, si
grubes - on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
I actually have the aiguines guide (or had lent it to a mate in march not seen it since).

I rented a house off of a mate in aiguines. I got it dirt cheap as we went out of season.

I chose to go to Costa blance rather than go back this year. However I am keen to get back to Verdon at some point.
Joughton on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Hey Si, you remembered right, it's brilliant!

The cams mentioned protect the crux going over a bit of a steepening, then once you're over there's a rusty but absolutely massive peg, which looks a little better than others on the crag. There may also be some long tat on that peg which allows you to clip it before the crux, making this bit all pretty safe.

The bit with the rubbish pegs (they are really rubbish) is in the lower groove. It's well protected by a decent crack in the lower half, but it runs out higher up. My advice would be to put something bomber in as far up as possible in the crack before committing. There are three rubbish pegs in the groove next to some technical bits, then an absolutely shocking bolt/rusty coat hook protecting a very tenuous move. That'll probably have some tat on too so you'll clip the tat before you see how rubbish it is!

Hope this helps, good luck, and I apologize if any of the route isn't quite how I remembered!
Quiddity - on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan. Sorry not to comment more last week, there have been loads of really amazing achievements being done over the last few weeks and I don't want to single any out for inevitably missing some. There has been some really good shared psyche off this thread and it continues to be a source of inspiration to see how hard people are pushing themselves.

I am not sure my training at the moment is so much structured, as that I am trying to be a bit more analytical about what I am actually doing in my sessions and how that compares in terms of volume/intensity from week to week and month to month, rather than my usual thing of just turning up and climbing until I feel a bit tired then going home. It sounds quite complicated with counting moves, but mostly I just count problems or routes completed and assume that 1 problem = 6 moves and 1 route = 20 moves. Overall I am fitting it into a loose periodised plan mostly aiming at getting stronger, but am putting a power endurance month in after a conditioning/volume phase so I'm not totally out of shape for Rodellar.

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:34 +1
Redpoint a mega steep 7-something in Rodellar
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7c tick, 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick Nightmare Scenario tick and Road Rage
Infinite G - do all the moves, redpoint to first lower off.

MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.

LTG - 2013/14
Infinite G

Endurance week 1 of 3. Dramatically reduced the volume of easy/med climbing this week but hitting the projects outdoors and the circuits/4x4s quite hard indoors, which falls into the 'hard' category as it is typically done to failure (albeit in 20 moves rather than the 6 from a boulder problem). Estimated volume 808 moves total, (21% -22% - 56% - 0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh, 75% routes)

M: short endurance season. Pen bouldering, repeat v3 and v4. Ticked blue v6 first go of the night! Catacomb laps on black v4/7a+ 146 moves.

T: Short 4x4 session, v4(v3)v2v3, v3v2v3v2, v3v2(v3)v3v2, (v4)v3(v2)v3v2. ~2mins on/2mins off. 162 moves.

W: routes session. Route setting in progress so warmed up on 3x 6b and then did the yellow 6c+ 2nd go. Catacomb laps on black V4/7a+,did complete then working on linking the pink V3 into the start of it (26 moves) and then continuing it into the purple lip traverse (V3/6c+?). 200 moves total.

T: Portland, Cuttings. Warmed up on Too Many Cooks. bolt-to-bolt on Nightmare Scenario, minus the span move. Refined sequence with the step left into the rest, and with additional foothold at top. On redpoint - kept missing the span move (ie. technical crux) on RPs 1, 2 and 3. On 3rd go, continued and linked the span move to the top (ie all the hard climbing). Got it clean on 4th redpoint. approx 120 moves.

F:

S: Portland, Cheyne Cliff. Road Rage - warm up and 2 bolt-to-bolt goes refreshing sequence - got links from sidepull to top and from 3 of 3 to top. Redpoint - high point of tooth hold/triangle crimp on headwall. Fingers v sore. Probably quite good power endurance training. Took the big lob off the finishing jugs - this is my 'reference' training lob and it is actually becoming quite fun :-) Approx 80 moves

S: Portland, Cuttings. Too many cooks & New Saladin as warmups. Put clips in bolt-to-bolt on The Sears Tower. 2 top rope goes, couldn't work out crux mvoes. Might need to try it again in colder temps, or might just need to be stronger. v thin and fingery with small crimps/v poor feet. approx 100 moves.
biscuit - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

OK something weird just happened.

I sneezed, which resulted in a large amount of pain for a couple of seconds and then....nothing. No more pain. I can stretch my arms above my head, spin my torso round, breathe deeply and generally do everything i could do before i hurt my ribs.

Only been for half and hour so far but fingers crossed :-)

Off to town this afternoon to get the wood for my board. Very excited.
Daniel Heath - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

How strange!
pork pie girl - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

first time posting on the fit club..

bit of an odd week this week as intense numbness and tingling in right hand/arm most nights and therefore having broken sleep.. numbness goes after i've warmed up when training/ climbing. started after minor injury to fingers and inner forearm whilst on undercut of rose at malham 4weeks ago.

not getting outside on bike due to time constraints right now but getting plenty of training in.

last week (week commencing the 3rd sept)
m- gym. 45 mins intense cardio (stair climber) weights and wide grip pull ups
(all muscle groups) ans core stability
t- cardio. interval training on bike
w- gym - same as monday'sworkout
t-cardio.int training on bike
f- a.m. int training on bike p.m malham- up SS 7b 6 times - laps and working route
s-a.m. int training on bike p.m malham- up SS 5 7b times - 3x top rope and 2x leading but pulled on fourth bolt to clip it and was too sulky to try and lead through
s- a.m.int training on bike p.m malham up sS 5 times again!! exactully the same as saturday but tried to climb through to the top and practised falling off


this week so far (w/c 10th sept)
m- gym- cardio,weights and core work
t- stretching
w gym- cardio, weights ghts and core work
t-malham- ss again id dry enough
f- malham as above
s- moving house and cardio
s- malham hopefully start anew 7b project

main barriers to progress on current project is my clipping position on fourth bolt on SS, i'm staying in the groove rather than going out left onto large flake as my reach is making it very marginal, so trying to clip off the undercut at he third bolt.

MTG- 7b by end of october
try and boulder harder routes than last winter (so harder than font 6c)
get more comfortable with lobbing off routes and get my ass up some 7s at the wall

build a bouldering wall in my garage by november

LTG- consolidate 7a+ leads, increase onsight grade, get some 7b RPs under my belt, make a fool of myself on a 7b+

andrea

mrchewy - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Welcome to the thread Andrea - you sound like you like to beast the week!

Kelvin
maria85 - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:
Wow, inspirational! You're getting a lot done... are you fitting in work into that as well? Welcome :-)

Update to my week: I was feeling great having just got back from my longest run in a couple of years... then my body objected and I spent the last hour fighting dizzyness and feeling rubbish. Conclusion after thinking about it for a bit - I'd skipped breakfast this morning in a rush to work, and only eaten half an omelette and a slice of cake all day, both at least 3/4 hours before running. New goal: make sure I'm feeding myself properly!

AJM - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Still fixed?
biscuit - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Still fixed?

Predictably i hurt it sliding an 8x4 onto the top of my van. They weigh more than you think don't they ?

Injured by my training board :-( It's no worse than it was though so no harm done. Planning on climbing on Sunday - fingers crossed.

Going to get started building it tomorrow. I am very excited.
AJM - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

My mate has built a board in his house - going to play on it tomorrow, similarly excited. Although my finger skin hasn't recovered from the weekend plus climbing indoors yesterday and outside today, so after tomorrow mornings planned session I may not have anything left for a board evening!

I've also put another blog post up about the summer venues, this time Barberine/Gietroz near Cham. http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/ - Loup will maybe be the weekend if I am at home, but I've got more to say for that one...
Eagle River - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:

Hi Andrea!
I knew we'd get you eventually.
grubes - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:
welcome
Ali - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan!

Pork Pie Girl - is the 4th bolt the one to the right of the big flake? I couldn't work out for a while how to get out to the flake (was trying to go off the big undercut pocket but was desperate due to reach) but used Cider Yellow's beta to go to crimp above pocket then out to flake...not sure how tall you are but may be worth a try?

MTG (2013) - 7c pyramid

STG (end 2013) - Tick Want Out (7b)- done!, Something Stupid (7b), Empire of the Sun (7b)

Last week's achievements been totally overshadowed by this week's stress, so much so that struggling to remember what I did, but here goes...

M - Nothing? (May have gone for a run, but can't really remember) Night shift at work
T - Routes at Reach - good session but cut a bit short due to having to go to work (night shift) - 11 routes I think 5-7a (dog). Flashed 6c+ and onsighted 6b+ but got spanked on a very undergraded 6a+! Grades prob don't mean much but was good to get on routes again.
W - Biscuit Factory - warmed up then about 12 problems on Green circuit including 3 (I think?) v5s which really pleased with as don't think I've done any/many before here. Felt pretty strong. Again didn't get to totally knacker myself out as had to go to work for 3rd night shift in a row!
T - Nothing (went to see paralympic swimmming)
F - Gentle walk in the Kent countryside - about 8 miles, fair pace
S - Nothing (working morning then drive down to Portland)
S - Portland - warmed up on Family Day out and Too Many Cooks, then climbed/pulled up Want Out to try and figure out top section after failing a few weeks ago. Tried Kev's beta which was AMAZING and made it feel so much easier it almost felt like cheating....though I suspect this was helped by the fact I have a bendy back and legs that bend in weird ways. Waited for sun to go in then got it first redpoint! Had a bit of a faff clipping at the top, but managed to find an awesome rest to recover before last few hard moves. Got on Hall of Mirrors on top rope to try moves but think I need to be stronger, particularly on slopers and do more fingerboard work before up for it. Finish off onsighting some 6b which was rather spicey at the top but pleased that I didn't wimp out.

Very please at getting Want Out ticked, as hardest route I've done, though a bit of an anticlimax given the top section felt so much easier - Kev I definitely owe you a beer or three for that beta! Just makes you think that sometimes you need to work moves out and look around rather than assuming there's only one way to do something. Definitely helped get psyche up for getting it ticked that everyone else on here was doing so well, plus the fact I didn't know when I would next be able to get down! :o)

Unfortunately my delight was than subdued by a terrible drive back to London which I got through by subsisting on coffee and sugar (and thanks to Quiddity/CY for keeping me awake!), which meant that by monday I was doing a rather good impression of a zombie from lack of sleep. Last few days been really really stressful after losing my passport, turning house upside down and still not finding it, not being able to get an appointment to get it back for Spain next week. However, after a trip up to Durham (the nearest place to London they had an appointment this week!) I am now waiting for my passport to be ready to (fingers crossed) be picked up in 3 hours....a very expensive mistake but at least I should be able to get to Spain and Rodella! Training definitely had to take a back seat but at the moment think the main thing I need is sleep!
grubes - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:
Awesome Ali on Want out! Guess you will need to head to malham before too long for SS

SPassport sounds pricy but at least it will be sorted. Have fun in Spain
Ali - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes: Yup that's the next plan! Looking at end Oct if the weather/conditions turn out ok...
Ally Smith on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:
> SS 5 7b times - 3x top rope and 2x leading but pulled on fourth bolt to clip it and was too sulky to try and lead through

Have you tried extending this clip so you can reach it from the groove?

Reaching the flake is a big move even for the tall. There is some cunning beta which involves gsatoning a divot above the pocket with your lefthand. Using this to get your left foot up on a hold out left before making the rockover/reach to the flake with your left hand.
Curious Yellow - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

Awesome, well deserved and you made it look really easy (apart from the stressy clip at the top!!). Good job! :-))

Pork Pie Girl - yeah that works for me and Ali who are both 5'6 or 7ish, though it's still a bit of a stretch...
Ally Smith on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to ally smith:

Not used the UKCFC for a while, but realise i need to keep tabs on what i'm doing to make sure i get up some redpoint projects before a (non-climbing) trip away in November.

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT

STG (end Oct 2012)
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger
- Supercool (Gordale)
- Dumpster divers (Diamond)
- Training link: Melancopout (LPT)

Also: Get bolts in Diamond and Orme projects

M (3rd Sept) - LPT with dodgy Dylan. New highpoint on Melancopout; worked out sequence to clip 3rd bolt!
T - Diamond. Bolted one project (NGOOTB direct) and dogged Dumpster Divers. Did sequence above 3rd bolt couldn't do last year but got shut down on headwall.
W - Nowt
T - Gym session. Deadlift, b-curl, reverse flies, rowing (2k, 7min 52s)
F - Nowt - DOMS
S - Back to Diamond. Looked at other project and got 2 bolts in it. Aiding and bolting very hard on core. Then new 7a slab at Penmaenbach quarry.
S - Rushed 1hr an-cap session at Frodsham. Then rush to wind-surfing (no wind). Finished evening with 45min aero-cap at Racecourse walls (great it actually feels like aero-cap again)

M (10th Sept) - Nowt. Sore fingers :-(
AJM - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to ally smith:

Welcome back ally. Diamond looks so so good! - was looking at the topo yesterday and was scheming about how to arrange a trip up there (given my weekend busyness, prob midweek).

In reply to Ali:

Nice one Ali! Looks like the London branch of team Rodellar are peaking about the right time for it!
AJM - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

> I've also put another blog post up about the summer venues, this time Barberine/Gietroz near Cham. http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/ - Loup will maybe be the weekend if I am at home, but I've got more to say for that one...

Well, since Almost Me pummelled the hell out of my core, shoulders and arms and shredded what was left of the skin on my fingers yesterday I haven't made it out this morning, so have just done the promised Loup section. Hopefully it may raise some psyche for the venue.

On a reated note Almost Me at Ban y Gor, for anyone who was considering trying it (Nick?) is awesome fun. Steepest climbing I think I've done in the UK going across that roof. Not sure if angle-wise it isn't perhaps the steepest I've done ever. Very keen to get back on it, although it will definitely target some weaknesses of mine!
pork pie girl - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow: hiya . yes went back to do this today and it worked, just wet at the top so couldn't finish it. so now leading it clean to the last bolt before the lower off, still got to pluck up the courage to just keep moving once i go right after the flake. i.m 5'5" and a bit

ps what you doing with ye feet when you go right to the pocket (left hand on flake, right foot on good hold... it's diffilcut to switch feet.)
Eagle River - on 14 Sep 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ooo this is a bit I remember! Switching feet is awkward (but ironically is what I defaulted to on my successful attempt) but there is a worse foothold above the good one so you use the worse one for your right then step underneath it onto the good one with your left foot as you move across.
catt on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Yup, sounds like what I did too. If I recall the worse foothold is still okay/good. Certainly remember struggling with the foot swap here before having a proper look around and a 'doh' moment.
catt on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

Awesome work on Want Out Ali! Rodellar is going to be pysssyked!!
Si dH - on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:
Nice one Ali, was wondering when you'd post on here after seeing it on fb!

It's amazing how much difference a tiny piece of beta makes sometimes...

Glad you've got a passport again :)
Ali - on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Thanks! I had to get the passport stress out the way before I could actually enjoy having done it!

Pork pie girl - I seem to remember struggling with that move last time I tried it...suspect that may be one place I'm likely to come off on redpoint...

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