/ NEW REVIEW: Evolv Capitan Approach Shoes

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Watching the world go by., 3 kbToby Archer reviews some rough and tough approach shoes that are well-suited to UK terrain, with great soles that grip both well on mud and grass and on dry, clean rock.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4904
In reply to UKC Gear: Just seen this useful comment on these shoes from the Rock and Run website
"The sizing is fractionally more generous than on the other Evolv approach shoes, to equate for those wanting to wear thicker socks."

I generally wear 42s in most trainers and approach shoes and obviously fit changes with models and makes, but what R&R say sounds sensible. They are quite a roomy fit for me and I could definitely wear thick hiking socks with them. I've not tried other Evolv approach shoes though to compare them with.
Tallie - on 14 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks Toby - good review. I'll have a look at these when my Guide Tennies die.

Could you expand a little bit on their climbing characteristics? I suspect that their lugged sole means that they're not quite as positive as tennies? How stiff is the sole - can you edge with them?
In reply to Tallie:

> Could you expand a little bit on their climbing characteristics? I suspect that their lugged sole means that they're not quite as positive as tennies? How stiff is the sole - can you edge with them?

Hi Tallie, yes you can edge with them but they don't have a 'climbing zone' like some approach shoes do under the big toe and inside edge. I've uploaded a pic of the sole here: pic.twitter.com/teCHsaxm (let me know if the link doesn't work), you should be able to click on it for a bigger version. I haven't done any 'proper' climbing in them, but have bouldered a fair amount to test these things. I found I can edge well with them, as long as its not a stupidly small hold (matchbox rather than matchstick) and there is plenty of stiffness there to stand on them.

But I guess overall they are more at the hiking end of the hiking-climbing range that approach shoes fall on. I would definitely wear them for scrambling routes in the UK though as long as I wasn't expecting loads of deep water/mud when just an old fashioned walking boot would be better.

hope that helps.
Tallie - on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks Toby - very useful.
galpinos - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to TobyA:

They look like a copy of the 5.10 Camp 4s to me?
In reply to galpinos: Similar I guess, but I've never tried them so don't know if it's just a cosmetic similarity. The Evolvs seem to have a more aggressive tread.
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jimtitt - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to TobyA:
The technical approach shoe (more climbing orientated) from Evolv is the Bolt which gets good reviews in the US for its climbing ability.

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