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Topic - Pulley injury susceptibility. Fingerboard rehab?

Mr Fuller on 10 Sep 2012
I've been rock climbing for about 2 years and have had three minor A2 pulley injuries in that time (two on my middle finger on right hand, one on middle finger of left hand). Iíll rest for a couple of months, return slowly, and then within another month I will be at full strength again. When fit I go bouldering indoors about once or twice a week, and it seems that within a couple of weeks of upping the frequency to three times a week I start getting injured (Iím not bouldering hard; about f6a-6c+). I have never had a pulley injury from climbing/bouldering outside. Wary of pulley injuries, I almost never full-crimp anything, open-handing instead. One thing Iíve noticed is that my middle fingers are significantly longer than the fingers either side, meaning that if hanging on a small edge, my middle fingers tend to bend quite a bit more than the others, increasing the stress on them. Could this make me more susceptible to these injuries? I do a lot of other sports and rarely get other recurring injuries and canít think of any other particular reason why my fingers seem vulnerable. Is it just technique?

As an aside, how good an idea is strengthening my fingers on a fingerboard? I know theyíve a reputation for causing injuries if used incorrectly, so could these make things worse?
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