/ Pulley injury susceptibility. Fingerboard rehab?
As an aside, how good an idea is strengthening my fingers on a fingerboard? I know theyíve a reputation for causing injuries if used incorrectly, so could these make things worse?
Quite possibly. I used to get loads of finger 'tweaks' but touch-wood I've not had a bad one for years despite being fatter and climbing harder than ever. Chances are I've just learned the warning signs over the years and being a bit less obsessed than I once was I rest any niggles as and when they need it.
Used carefully there's no reason why a finger board should hurt you worse than bouldering, in many ways it's more controlled. The problem I have with them is getting a decent warm-up and getting the intensity right (I'm weak and realistically require assistance). My other problem is the recovery time from a fingerboard session is unpredictable, sometimes it eats into climbing opportunities which is just plain stupid.
You could try strengthening your fingers a bit by using Theraputty before hitting the fingerboard exercises.
I've had trouble with my fingers for years. they do say that preventative taping is a bad thing and inhbits the development of stronger pulleys etc, but I beg to differ. i have had far fewer problems since i've started taping preventatively (many years ago now).
The key things are warming up and knowing when to stop pulling. It's never worth it - if it feels twangy, jump off and avoid those holds where one finger at a time moves off the hold, overstressing the others.
The best warm up device I've found so far are Eggsercisers. They don't get smelly like putty for a start, and support your fingers and pulleys.
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