In reply to ericinbristol: scarpa do I think the crux.
informed review here
http://adriannelhams.blogspot.co.uk/
if you turn the shoe over you need a flat bit of sticky rubber underneath your big toe. Laces down as fas as possible. most of the quality italian manufactures do good ones eg garmont, sportiva, kayland etc
outsie in hathersage have a few different ones or joe brown, V12 in llanberis.
getting light ones is tricky i love the i think discontinued Scarpa zens but they are probably 500g plus a pair
personally I've used very comfy sportiva mythos on all my big routes though it is a bit hard on your feet.