UKC

Polaris - Swanage

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 duncan b 14 Sep 2012
I was wondering if anyone has done Polaris at Swanage recently as it's unclear to me how you access the route. I've heard varying accounts of taking a stake with you to abb off to tying two abb ropes together and using an existing anchor a long way back. Is there someone out there who could put me right please?
 Andy Reeve 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duncan b:
It's five years since I did it, however I think my memory of the approach is accurate.
I do remember it taking us quite a while to suss out what to do and where exactly to go from. I remember lots of walking to and fro on the very steep grass bank above the cliff.
First we ab'd down a steep grass bank from a stake above a grass bowl, heading slightly rightwards (looking out) into the bottom of the grassy bowl. This gained another stake on the edge of the cliff. We then pulled the rope from the first stake and ab'd off the second (rope not long enough to go off the top stake, was probably using a 50 or 60m).
I guess it would be better to have left a spare ab rope of the top stake but we only had the one, and once you've done the first pitch you're a pretty long way from the ab rope anyway, so retreat is going to be pretty unlikely either way!
It's an amazing route, have fun!
OP duncan b 16 Sep 2012
Thanks for the info both, much appreciated.

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