/ Polaris - Swanage
It's five years since I did it, however I think my memory of the approach is accurate.
I do remember it taking us quite a while to suss out what to do and where exactly to go from. I remember lots of walking to and fro on the very steep grass bank above the cliff.
First we ab'd down a steep grass bank from a stake above a grass bowl, heading slightly rightwards (looking out) into the bottom of the grassy bowl. This gained another stake on the edge of the cliff. We then pulled the rope from the first stake and ab'd off the second (rope not long enough to go off the top stake, was probably using a 50 or 60m).
I guess it would be better to have left a spare ab rope of the top stake but we only had the one, and once you've done the first pitch you're a pretty long way from the ab rope anyway, so retreat is going to be pretty unlikely either way!
It's an amazing route, have fun!
Elsewhere on the site
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more