/ UKC Fit Club week 287

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Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
I said I'd do this for Dan this week as he's going to be late back.

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (286) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=519255&v=1#x7011875

Posters:
Daniel Heath - nice one, sounds like another awesome week. Impressed with Ramshaw Crack! Simple Simon is known to be hard for the grade.
Joughton - More good mileage! I'm keen to get on The Rasp soon...
Biscuit - good to hear you can climb a bit at least - must be good news?
Grubes - claim the soft touches. MM is worth E1 even if Namenos isnt. Just :)
Richard Popp - hope your fostering is going well. Getting the odd session on the fingerboard is good, will keep up the strength.
JimmyKay - work...I know the feeling
Hokkyokusei - good hiking - 24 summits is a lot
Eagle River - good luck with the injuries
NMN - lots of running mileage. Maybe dedicate a day per week to climbing? :)
ayuplass - nice one. Mileage outside is key for trad at those grades.
Mattrm - I feel your pain on house decorating. Good running progress.
mrchewy - well done in Wales. they are all brilliant routes arent they? If you can second Atlantis pitch 1 and NWP without falling, you should be leading VS very easily.
AJM - the amount of climbing you are doing is not fair. And you should be crushing Font 7b now, 6c is virtually a path!
Ian Bell - nice one on Tower Face, sounds like a big achievement and its a really good route.
maria85 - sounds like youre going about things the right way - lots of mileage and Im sure youll get some 6a+s soon
IainRUK - I watch a jungfrau marathon once when I was a kid (well, some of it). Looks like ridiculously hard work, well done.
pebbles - lots of mileage at least. I used to find limestone desperate when most of my climbing was grit. It isnt all loose, but it can feel it sometimes when yoru heads in the wrong place. I found it was just a case of doing it more often, as you learn to read the moves, holds and upcoming gear placements more easily, which is the big thing that is harder than mid-grade grit (where everything above you is usually pretty obvious). Then you commit to thigns quicker, get less pumped, etc etc. Id have thoguht the chee tor might be a bit dirty at the moment mind?
oddtoast - welcome! Soudns like thre bug has bitten you if youre on here only a week after your first climb. Be prepared for climbing to take over your life :)
Curious Yellow - good luck with the RP projects.
Leon - well doen getting a day in :) What was the E2?
Quiddity - nice one ticking NS. I'm impressed by how much structure/science you always put in to your training.
pork pie girl: welcome to you to1 doesnt sound like you must be eating too many pork pies. Any goals to share? Might be worth trying climbign in the mornign rather than after a hard biking session?
Ali - already said it, but well done again!
ally smith - nice one working out some new moves ion the project



Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 2**
- Tick off a good list of E2s or harder trad including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, Darius, The Strand, Foil (E3), Grond, Robert Brown (E3)**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others **done Robert Brown on High Tor, otherwise done Foil, failed on Mad Dogs and Englishmen**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 1*7a+, 1*7b, 1*7b+ and 0*7c - ticked Stone the Loach**

Long term goals (2013): - Tick 7c in France or Spain - Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: short bouldering session at Alter Rock. First climbing or training in 6 days and fingers needed time to start pulling properly again but it felt good to be back on it.
T: Good fingerboard session
W: more bouldering at Alter Rock. Did a few new problems and a traverse at the end. Not bad, not great either - sometimes difficult to judge when the problems are brand new as the grading there is quite inconsistent.
T: Rest
F: did 50 chin-ups before breakfast, 20 in the evening, otherwise a rest day. Drank too much wine.
S: Rest (quite a bit of walking around shopping for antiques! Ate too much pizza in the evening).
S: High Tor - did Robert Brown :) I took a while to work out and commit to the crux, and it felt quite intense and a bit scary climbing through the bulge and out right above it - pretty big run-out.

Overall a good week - back in to the training after the almost-a-week off, and was really pleased with Robert Brown, stunning route and another goal (High Tor E3) ticked off - but there's still some more there to do :)
IainRUK - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

m: rest, transatlantic fligh
t: am: 4 mile run. pm: 6 miles trail run
w: lunch: 4 miles. pm: 6 mile trail run
t: am: 6 miles. pm: 8 miles with 4x200, 3 x1k and 2 x 400m reps)
f: 4 miles steady
s: am: 8 miles (2.5 mile warm up, 5k race, won, 2.5 mile cool down). pm: 17 mile trail run Acadia National Park
s: probably a 13-14 mile road run pretty soon
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks for taking the time this week Si. Good work on the E3!

*I'm now looking for a volunteer for next week*

Apologies for being away these two weekends.

Dan
grubes - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> Grubes - claim the soft touches. MM is worth E1 even if Namenos isnt. Just :)
Cheers Si, First E1 onsight of the year on a boiling day at stanage I will take.

STG (end of Nov):
7a in Chorro
Onsight 6c in or before Chorro - Tick!
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Climb more!! Tick

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Castle inn Quarry. Warmed up trying to onsight a 6c. Fell on the last move stripped it as it was sharp and not great. I took the lead fall with no sohut of take though which is always good for the head
The tried another 6c onsight and got it! Another slab and another grade broken :)
S: PenMaen Head. Warmed up onsighting a 2x6a. Then tried a 6b took a lob passing the first bolt dogged past it and did the rest of the route clean and stripped it. Next I tried to onsight a 6b+ fell on a big move dogged my way to the top taking more lead falls. Got it second go.
ONsighted 2x6a+ with no rest between them.
Repeated a 5+ and a 6a+.
Not a bad milage day really.
S: Rain ...
Worked some problems at split infinity but did not complete any. Had a walk up the great Orme and along llandudno pier. Nice day shame I did not get down to LPT or a tick.

Next Weeks goals:
Malham to try seventh ardvark/Rose coronary/Free and even easier.
Works session
Foundry/Depot session?
Rokt session?
Maybe mid week outside?
Work out chorro goals

So all in all another good weekend! nice to push my grade again and good milage ready for chorro. Think I need to start planning my try to chorro. its coming up and will give me some focus
grubes - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I should be able to do it if no one else wants to
grubes - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
Nice one on the High tor E3 I really want to get down there looks to be some amazing quality
Ali - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Thanks Si!

MTG (2013) - 7c pyramid

STG (end 2013) - Tick Want Out (7b)- done!, Something Stupid (7b), Empire of the Sun (7b)

Bit of a disastrous week training wise, as most of the week was taken up with stress of losing passport and travelling to Durham and back to get a new one! That was then followed by work party Friday night and housemates birthday night last night. Managed to get a short but good session bouldering at the Arch on Tuesday and a short, easy session at the Reach on Sat. Unfortunately have eaten lots of rubbish, drank too much, not had enough sleep and seem to be coming down with a cold! All totally my old fault, so not expecting any sympathy ;o)

5 days to go to Rodellar, so focus on sleeping lots, eating well and getting a couple of good sessions in early in the week before a few days rest.
Ali - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Wow, you're really getting through your hard trad ticks! Nice work! Will have to get you to drag me up some more E2s sometime :)
Joughton on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Cheers for doing the stats this week Si, and well done on Robert Brown. Were you not tempted to do Lyme Cryme or did my beta put you off?

Quiet week for me, just started at a new college in Manchester so I'm waking up much earlier than usual so everything feels really tiring! Hopefully I'll get used to it when I settle into a routine.

Mon - first day of big school...
Tue - bouldering session at rockover. I wasn't as rubbish as I thought I'd be, flashed a few V5s and three V6s, pleased.
Wed - rest
Thurs - nothing
Fri - again, nothing. Lacking in motivation
Sat - managed to redeem my week by having a great day at Stanage. Onsighted :
Eliminator, HVS - a really nice warm up, really enjoyable.
The Tippler Direct hard E3 6a - this think is nails! My arms weren't long enough to do the reach locking off so after a lot of horizontal faffing I decided to dyno. Caught it with the tips of three fingers! Very happy, because the route really isn't my style.
Black Hawk Bastion, E2/3 5c - much easier than ^. Awkward bridging up a corner then a fun sequence to get on the arete.
The Dangler - another roof climb, this one much easier. It was pretty pumpy and strenuous but I felt really strong, and it went pretty easily which I was really pleased with.
Sun - resting

Not an amazing week but a good day, if anyone is interested there's a more detailed account on my blog with a few nice pictures: http://jakeoughtonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/more-grit-thuggery.html

I've also got a trip to Catalunya this half term which I'm really psyched for, I'll be hitting crags like Oliana and Santa Linya so there's loads to go at. I'm hoping to complete my 7c onsight pyramid (just need the 7c now...) and maybe do my first 7c+ or harder if I have the time and will power. I'll be climbing with Luke who is a lot more open to projecting which bodes well for doing hard stuff:)

Cheers, Jake
Eagle River - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si,

Goals: 7b+ by end of 2012 (TICK!)

Mon: routes indoors, still taking it easy on the finger so did some new routes at 7a level, flashed all but one.

Wed: ran out of new routes so tried a 7b+ I failed on previously (still nails), a new 7b+ (nails but more pleasant climbing than the last one) and an 8a (ridiculous, couldn't do at least 3 of the moves in isolation).

Sat: Kilnsey, Frankie was dry so after warming up I had one go going bolt to bolt, reminding myself of the moves and brushing holds then next go I led it clean! Finished off with a couple of goes on Truth Drug (7b+). Felt hard but all the moves are there.

Really pleased to tick Frankie Comes to Kilnsey as it felt really hard and at the last rest before the tricky finish my calves were burning (bridged out between two small footholds) and I thought I wasn't recovering enough but I scraped to the belay. Truth Drug is a decent route to have in the pipeline as it stays relatively dry. Might start looking for some suitable 7cs to open an account on. Any suggestions???
Kevster - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si,

Ali: Well done on Want out, glad the beta was usefull. Direct is best!
Curious Yellow: Well done on 7c, if I recall correctly.
AJM, will give you a shout when free, though it'll be after your Spain jaunt I guess.

I didn't post last week as I was on Lundy. In short:
Climbed all 8 days, it was excellent as expected, and tiring!
Climbed 19 routes between the two of us, 21 E points and 40 stars.
2x E3, 4x E2, 8x E1.

Really pleased with the level of climb which I felt good on leading. Stamina held up too, with one fail/rest for me the whole trip - the last move of the last route on the last day of the trip.

I could go on, but...... what next? as Lundy was a big trip for me.

I have a couple of possible trad weekends coming, then I am going to try and concentrate back on sport for the winter.

STG: 7c outside & keep trad comfortable E1
MTG: More sport 7cs and try 7c+/8a properly. Tick more E2 & E3s.
LTG: 8a & comfortable on E3.

Next longer trip: Xmas/new year, Chorro maybe.


Thanks, Kev
grubes - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
Awesome Mate. Strange to think just a few weeks ago you were considering binning it as being too hard. Think how quick you would of got it done if not for weather, illness, etc
Hard 7b+ so the next goal has to be 7c ;)
Eagle River - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

weather, illness, top-roping......
Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:
Cheers Jake, yes Lyme Cryme was next on the list. I thought it sounded a bit scary from some accounts so wanted to do RB first. Unfortunately my partner has a dodgy knee and just wanted to belay, then I realised at the crag I only had twelve draws so couldn't do things in a single pitch. He followed me up both pitches of Robert Brown but I didnt want to drag him up both pitches of Lyme Cryme as well. Also it was forecast to rain within an hour, so we left. I am well psyched to get back soon, want to do Lyme Cryme, Perseus and, even more, Nightmare of Brown Donkeys - it just looks incredible from the ab.
Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to Si dH) Wow, you're really getting through your hard trad ticks! Nice work! Will have to get you to drag me up some more E2s sometime :)

I can point you at the best ones to lead yourself! :)
leon on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
STG: @ least 50 problems in one of the session with a focus on slabs & vertical walls(tick). Keep an eye on nutritional in diet.(tick)
MTG: 70(too much??) problems in one session.
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth(tick). Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12.8
Focus: Endurance 1/4

Mon: Weights. Core
Tue: Volume @ Stockport (30 problems to V2 to V5).
Wed: Rest
Thu: Technique @ home (11 problems to V3).
Fri: Push-ups & pulls-ups. Core
Sat: ARC. Repeaters
Sun: Volume @ The Works (50 problems mainly around V3).

It was Wall End Slab Direct. It's quite easy @ the grade but I found the crux quite scary to contemplate. Good work on the e3 @ High Tor. I really want to try Darius but the log book entries on it make it sound nails.

Looks like I porked out a bit eating loads (and i mean loads) of coissants and drinking too much wine in france.

Happy with the amount of training this week. Struggling to get the volume in @ Stockport or Home (not enough problems easy enough!!) so I'll have to make more of an effort to get over to The Works.
maria85 - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
Been fighting some kind of sickness this week, really lethargic and snotty (lovely!) so not done as much as I'd like.

Last week's goals:
- 15km run early in the week! 3 runs total. -Yes, and done 2.
- Big day in the Aig. Rouge - maybe Aig. du Pouce? -No, did get a multipitch in though.
- Leg strength stuff again. -1 session
- Not feeling too psyched on cragging, but maybe again by end of week? -went twice, see below.

M: Nothing. Slept for quite a lot of it...
T: Did 4 pitches up to 6a before the rain came, plus a reasonable walk to get there. Nice climbing.
W: Run, 14.8km, 1hr 29, 119m height gain. Felt good, little tired by end of it.
T: Cragging in evening. Got a 6a+ lead in (though I TR'd the same route a few months ago), TR'd a 6c finger crack (got all the moves but couldn't link more than 2 or 3 on the crux), 3x 5's leads, got on a 6a+ to finish but bailed with a reachy move through the overhang, angry at myself, should have gone for it.
F: Nothing - slept half the day again.
S: Cragging - interesting session :S Got on a 6a+ to start, got scared on a reachy committing move with the bolt about foot level, lowered and resorted to angry tears!!! (I hate being a girl sometimes!). Led it 2nd go with an extended sling off the next bolt so I could clip before committing - did it clean this time (though cheating slightly!). Did a 6b next with one take, all moves clean, pretty pleased at that. Then a 5c, then finished on another 6a+, felt really good on this one and did it first go no problems. Happy at that.
S: 5.8km trail run, 48mins, 143m height gain (though I walked a chunk of that), followed by 3.8km on the road, 19 mins.

Goals for this week:
- Keep sleeping lots!! Can't believe how tired I am. Weird.
- Run (/walk the hills!) the Mont Blanc Cross course - 23km roughly
- 3x leg strength again
- Climbing wise goals are open, boyf has a mate visiting all week so I'll see what they're planning and if I want to go along or not.

Right, off to bed for me :(
maria85 - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

> F: did 50 chin-ups before breakfast, 20 in the evening, otherwise a rest day.

I think that's more chin-ups than I've done in my life, ever!!
Well done on Robert Brown :)
JimmyKay - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si.

M- 11k run
T- Bouldering @ RP
W- Nothing
T- Nothing
F- Nothing
S- Bouldering @ RP. Mainly campus boards. Still managing 147 which is encouraging. Followed by a late evening track session. Managed 5k in 18:36. Getting there.
S- 1hr of swimming drills.
JimmyKay - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Dan, your weekend ticklist is sickening. Good effort lad.
Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to leon:
Darius is worth getting on and giving it a go. It is well-protected and the moves are all do-able, it just comes down to moving well up the flakes, not trying too place tooo much gear, and having the fitness to hold it together at the top (which is not easy even.though you get a hands off rest). Its one of the very best routes in UK and will be all the better if you find it hard - get on it! :)
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Going to the new climbing station lots

M-Indoor Bouldering
T-4 x 4 circuits, great session
W-Pull ups at local park
T-Circuits, less structured
F-
S-Edge lane (no pads this time)
High Street, this was a long term onsight goal for me, and thankfully I think I waited till I was ready (just!) very pumped at the top
Soloed Time for Tea Original, and I'm feeling very solid on peg scar jams now.
S-Great Slab, pretty scary but crimped out the crux
Hard Cheddar, ground up then soloed without pads, 2nd E5 :D
Not too high really though

I'm still on a high, everything I've tried in the last couple of weeks has paid off. I've now completed the London Wall Ticklist (except for LW itself). Scary and exciting at the same time.

Video of Edge Lane here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dA8BegjLR2I
Joughton on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Bloody hell you crazy person! You must be one of the only people to go back and solo Edge Lane twice. Good effort on Hard Cheddar, it looks seriously scary, and kudos for doing without the pads but be careful mate! Was Hard Cheddar clean onsight or did you take a couple of falls onto the pads before getting in clean? Just curious as I'm tempted by it for a first grit E5.
Si dH - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Nice one Dan. Personally id have taken the grade with the pad :)
Joughton on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: That sounds fair enough, and it was probably a good idea to get used to the rock and stuff before getting on it. Next time you're back, if you're feeling fit and found Lyme Cryme okay, you should definitely give Flaky Wall a go, both tricky bits are really well protected so it's a good route to really go for it on. Not sure which one NoBD is, but from what I've heard Perseus is pretty soft and Laurin is nails so choose wisely!
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

> AJM - the amount of climbing you are doing is not fair. And you should be crushing Font 7b now, 6c is virtually a path!

Cheers Si. I'm not sure you'll like this weeks post, probably as unfair as last week! As for Fb7b, I'm not so sure!

Indoor/training priorities
  • Desperately get fit!
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - before October sport trip if it happens
  • Maintain fitness and sport head
  • Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+ [done]

<MTG> - 2012
  • Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7b, 4/4 x 7b+, 2/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+) <DONE>
  • 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 10 x E2 onsight, 1 x E2 flash-ish, 3 x E3 onsight, 1 x E3 ground-up] <DONE>
  • 7a+ onsight

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something


M: Round 1 of car fixing. No climbing.
T: Warehouse. Set a 19 move circuit, did it 2x4x with 2 minute rests, average move reached probably about 18. Then hit foot-on campus, had a 5 move loop (1-1-4-4-2-) which I did 10x, 10x, 9x, 8x with minute rests. Then skin was shredded, so got on beastmaker and did on-the-30sec pullup sets for 5 minutes twice, did about 41 first time about 35 second time I think. Beasted.
W: Ban y Gor. Got on Amost Me, an ace 7c roof, steepest thing I've ever tried. Look at the pics for an idea :) Put clips in, couldn't figure last move, then 1 more go with short links and last move figured, then one more go with some links and some sequence improvements.
T: Rest, mainly. Got on a mates board in the evening and did some larking round on circuits, just doing some stuff to get a pump on really.
F: Avon. Seconded a main wall E2 which was balancey and felt a bit insecure the whole way up. Led an E2 which was pumpy, hung around mid crux for about 10 minutes whining about feeling pumped before committing. Still, nice to be able to hang in for that long on the crux crimps even if I didn't feel I was moving so great.
S: Some major faff led to a Sharpnose day trip. Eric driving. Still, flashed-ish (had seconded about 6 years back, plus it's the abseil line) Out of the Blue, very greasy start, and onsighted Diamond Smiles. Very pleased with that, felt quite steady, the start was a bit sketchy but after that I pretty much rested my way up it.
S: Last minute partner rearranging led me to Ban y Gor again. Got Almost Me in 2 to warm up, pleased, thought that might be the days result. So, onto redpoints. First go I dropped the first hard move, hit the crimp but not right and couldn't readjust so came off. Second go I hit the tooth but fell off. Third to I got the tooth, rolled to the jug, only a moments hesitation looking at the clip I was skipping, just about caught the jug, shook out a bit, and just about managed the rockover, stood up, clipped the chains. YYFY!

So that's 2 E2s, a classic E3 and a 7c this week, with some training too. Got Monday and Wednesday planned at Cheddar, otherwise it's a taper week before Rodellar. Would love to get Circus Circus ticked before I go. I've ticked my Onsight goals and finished my Redpoint pyramid this week :)

Going well at the moment. Based on Saturday E4 doesn't feel unachieveable if I keep the trad mileage up and find the right route, but then also if I can get Circus, Circus ticked and have a good trip to Rodellar I feel I'm in a position where it might be worth investing some time into an 8a. Many thoughts:
- on current form, is a Rodellar 7c achieveable in the time I've got and with the partners and their aims that are there?
- do I care enough about sport onsighting at the moment for that 7a+ goal? Feeling a bit more like trad onsighting and sport redpointing are my main areas of psyche right now.
- is it time to commit a bit more seriously to right hand man once CC is finished?
- will I get an Xmas trip in and where (maybe Chorro, maybe Turkey, maybe nothing...)

Weight hasn't come down as much as I would have liked but I've got a week left.

Congrats to the many achievers I saw on my reading of the thread - Jake (trad crushing), Si (Robert brown), Steve (Frankie), grubes (sport tick), Kevster (E3s on Lundy - which?) and any and all others I've missed.....

Andy
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:

I downclimbed and jumped from HC crux about 6 times before I committed. You could downclimb/jump without a mat and it would be ok.

If you commit first time you have a fair chance, it's all about pulling the layback in control.

Good luck, i'll give you more beta if you want some
biscuit - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si.

Lots of people on fire on fit club at the moment. Too many to single out but well done everyone. New grades being hit, hard trad being consolidated, it's a real purple patch and vey motivating..

Obviously a quiet week and i was going to take the time to build my training wall. Surprised myself with the speed of my DIY but then 2 days of unexpected work took over and i've not got it finished yet. Got my parents visiting at the minute and it's hard to get the time. Going to get up early and put my lovely campus rungs on it tomorrow and then get on it in the evening.

Been a bit de motivated and diet has been bad with no cardio. Not even looked at the scales.

I did some OK climbing with work onsighting up to 6b and my rib felt fine and the climbing felt easy. Had a day at the crag yesterday with lots of repeating routes and a bit of on-sighting around 6b+ to 6c. Felt very rusty tbh. Everything was Ok with the ribs until the penultimate route when a hard side pull with high feet caused a bit of a set back. Stupidly tried a 7a after that but not a chance. Going to rest from real climbing until Saturday when i've an evening planned with 3 8a-8b climbers. Gulp ! Got to look forward to it though it's going to be a great opportunity.

Fingers crossed.

STG: Hasta Luego Luca with Eagle River
MTG: Cenizo (7c) before end of year
LTG: 7c+/8a in 2013.
Joughton on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Right okay... I think if I went for it onsight it would most definitely be with pads so maybe not worth it, I'm also quite tempted by Strapadictomy which looks an awful lot safer and probably not much physically harder. Have you ever been on that?

Just watched your video by the way, very impressed by how chilled you looked at the top.
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Yeah I fell off Strapadictomy once. I think you have to attack that route with so much confidence to pull it off. Positive thoughts and fresh forearms are essential :P

Hard to say which is physically harder. HC is more crimpy and delicate. Probably easier because you can downclimb it lots.
biscuit - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Well done mate.

I got told of a climb yesterday that is like HLL but 2ce as good. 7c, steeper, with twin tufas all the way about 50cm deep. Every other move is a knee bar. It's in the Chilam Balam cave.My mate has climbed it before and is willing to come down and show the beta.

Google maps Villanueva Del Rosario for location. Straight along A-92 from Loja onto the A-92m and you're there. It's an awe inspiring place if nothing else.

Just a thought if HLL goes down as quickly as it looks like it will for you - especially with a knee pad ;)
biscuit - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

The list of people to say well done to is getting longer by the minute.

Well done !

Go with what you feel for your goals. You won't try 100% at the sport on-sighting if your heart's not really in it.
JimmyKay - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

>I got told of a climb yesterday that is like HLL but 2ce as good. 7c, steeper, with twin tufas all the way about 50cm deep. Every other move is a knee bar. It's in the Chilam Balam cave.My mate has climbed it before and is willing to come down and show the beta.

This sounds amazing. I think my next trip after Turkey has to be back to Southern Spain.
JimmyKay - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Awesome effort. I remember seeing Almost Me and I regret not getting on it. Looks so good. Isn't there another good 7c/+ route up that bit of wall as well? I remember doing Really Big Sur and Nelson Mandela down those ends, but they were a little hidden in the trees. Almost Me is steep, imposing and really great looking line and position.
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Your logbook looks good Andy. Great effort on the 7c and Razor Roof earlier
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Well done on Tippler Direct Jake, I've fallen off that on two separate visits so far.

It must have been great to see James Pearson the other week. I'd love to get Bat out of Hell eventually. Such a safe but pumpy route (I've fallen once).

Oh and the Rasp, yes that's brutal!
JimmyKay - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Tippler Direct has always been on my Stange ticklist but it's been so log since I've got on the trad. Chameleon is also one that I always think I should do.
Daniel Heath - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

Well done on the 6c onsight mate.

If you could do next week that would be great, thanks for offering
Eagle River - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Sounds ace! I've asked for a 5:10 pad for my birthday so will be all over anything with a knee bar opportunity.

Have you been entrusted with the password for the chillam balam topo yet??
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

The route to the right is 7c+ I think and supposedly good - might give it a go next time round.

In reply to biscuit and Daniel Heath:

Cheers guys!

Andy - your new 7c, winter or a spring/summer sort of a route? Sounds ace, the kind of thing which would boost Chorro psyche for Xmas :)
Joughton on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to JimmyKay: You don't really need to be in trad mode for Tippler Direct, just cranking mode. You're obviously a much stronger boulderer than me too so I think the 6a crux will feel like a doddle after some of the harder problems you do. My advice would be just not to faff about, just commit to a sequence and it'll probably work - the route is so steep that even when you're trying to rest you just get more pumped.

In reply to Daniel Heath: cheers for the advice, I think I'll probably get a bit more hard grit mileage, preferably 6a grit mileage, and wait for a day with good conditions when I feel psyched and strong. The main reason I don't want to try it is because it looks so good, I don't want to mess it up!
mrchewy - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Cheers Si - yep, should be leading VS but ponced around seconding HS this weekend. It's not a fear thing but more that I feel a bit of a fraud as a climber. Need to sort some psyche!

Weight 79.1kg on Friday - been eating way too many carbs since tho.
Bodyfat - 25.2%
Target 75 and 18

Had a strange week all round, feeling quite demotivated but think taht's down to being away too much. So for the next few weekends I'm gonna lay low at home and just catch up with life's crap and train.

M - Ran 6.1k.
T - Ran 5.75k.
W - Ran 6.9k. Boulder room, not much, just worked some problems and rainbowed around. Need to be more focused.
T - Ran 5.9k. Took daughter to the wall for the first time. She's afraid of heights! She hated it but later said she enjoyed it and wants to go again when she gets back from uni at xmas. She asked to come, no encouragement from me and I'm a bit baffled by it to be honest. Did a few boulder problems.
F - Ran 5.1k. Drove to Wales.
S - Ran 5.5k. Seconded a Severe and three HS routes. No psyche for leading but it was the new members meet and the new member I was with wanted to get leading mileage in. Clogwen Bochlwyd. George the hut warden and 73 years old was out climbing with us too. It was good to see.
S - Ran 5.7k.

Not running fast as knee feels rough, 9 min miles give or take. Feels like a rubbish week but I ran every day and my daughter came down the wall, so it was actually pretty good.
mrchewy - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Well done on the High Tor route and everyone else - good work! People just keep on improving, I actually look forward to reading the thread... happy days.
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

You NLMC...?
biscuit - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River & AJM:

I know what i want for Xmas now. Santa bring me a kneepad ;-) Not got the password - not sure it actually ever got made into a useable format tbh. It's local knowledge only, and luckily i am gaining that knowledge.

So much in the area to do, over 800 boulder problems and LOTS of routes in the 6's and then lots of everything up to 9a+ ( or 9b+ depending on who you believe ) with some absolute classics and an agreement not to ever let it into a guidebook so it doesn't spoil the place. Oops, i've let the cat out of the bag.

There is this though:

http://www.bernabefernandez.com/en/my-way/villanueva-del-rosario/sector-chilam/

Andy, the 7c i am talking about is at a North(ish )facing ish crag ( furthest left on the above topo i think ). Depends on the wind really as to how cold it is. Spring/Autumn would be ideal, still climbable in Summer but could be muggy and also in WInter but could be baltic if the wind's in the wrong direction.

if you go to this page:

http://www.bernabefernandez.com/en/my-way/

and look at the Rosario section he lists his routes but with grades on the pics for the others. Taco de Madera ( corral ) is an awesome tiger striped wall of harder routes but just 5 min walk from lots of easier routes.

Anyway off to bed now so i can get up early to finish my board.
mrchewy - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: Yeh - how did you guess?
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

I knew it was the new members this weekend, and there can't be that many hut wardens called George out there. Haven't been to that hut yet this year, not spent the time in Wales in 2012...
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Hmm, tufas plus north facing probably doesn't mean a Xmas hit will see them in condition.....

What do you reckon, Frontales, Makinodromo, any other obvious Xmas contenders.....?
mrchewy - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: Yeh, George is pretty unforgettable! I've spent at least 12 weekends in Wales this year since the start of April... overkill really. You still a member then?
AJM - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

Yeah, never left when I left London. Plus whenever I do go to the hut I usually see familiar faces from Mile End...
mrchewy - on 16 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: I've never even lived in London - just co-opted in a couple of winters ago. It's done me alright tho, the club seems pretty active as far as climbing goes.
grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
Nice one Andy!
well if your 7c+ pyramid is complete what is the obvious next pyramid ...?
grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:
I would recommend trying on the 5:10 pad on before you buy one.

One of my friends paul who is not the heaviest bloke you could meet (think less than half of me) could not get it past his knees so sent it back.
Richard Popp - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Cheers Simon, et al, lots of climbing going on, inspiring stuff and not too frustrating knowing I cant get out again this week. Have actually worked evry day for last seven days and have been very tied up looking after three teenage foster children-rewarding but very very tough at times.
Knowing I was not going to get out has allowed me to actually do proper fingerboard sessions and, building on the dabbling I have done before the chnages are very noticable.
Been able to spend atleast an hour including the bolton complex x 3 warm up-followed by a burl routine from Neil Grisham, travelling pull ups, assisted one armers, explosive pull ups, lock offs, knee raises and so on. Finish off with repeaters 7on, 3 off x 7 on a varietey of holds-end up with very pumped forearms.

M-Stretching and fingerboard
T-Swiming 1/2 mile as fast as poss
W-Stretching and fingerboard
T-Swiming 1/2 mile as fast as poss
F-Stretching and fingerboard
S-Not much
S-Stretching and fingerboard

This week-will try and get to TCA luchtime thursday, may also try and go for a run, leg feeling much better.

Rich
AJM - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

They are quite tight, that's for sure.

Steve, if it helps judge size, they fit my legs ok.

In fact, I've just made an investment in my tufa-climbing future not 10 minutes ago ;)

Grubes - yes, I'm thinking as/when Circus Circus goes down that will be a 7c+ and 3 7cs done which means either another 7c+ or an 8a seems like the place to switch my attention to to fill out that mythical 8a pyramid (I can't believe I'm considering the progress of my 8a pyramid!)
Nomics4sale - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Hi all. Got back from my trip to India on Sunday, the trek was good, but hard work. Trogging up to 6,700m was a big effort on summit day.

I've been out running a few times since I got back, am feeling the benefits of the altitude on the uphills. Not sure how long that will last but it's great while it does!

STG: RP 7a/b, onsight E1
MTG: onsight 6c/+ in Spain/Italy

Mon: 10.5 mile run, 370m ascent, Pendle Hill
Tues: nowt
Wed: 6 mile run, 300m ascent, Forest of Bowland
Thurs: BoulderUK, flash up to V4, ticked 2 V5s after some work (must have been soft!)
Fri: 10 mile run Blencathra and Skiddaw lower paths. Not sure about ascent as I didn't have my GPS watch.
Sat: Trollers Gill. Failed to clean lead 6c which was very annoying. Top roped Jim Grin. Unfit.
Sun: Stockport wall, flashed up to V3/V4, ticked 2 V5s after some work.

Bouldering after 4 weeks off didn't go too badly but failing to RP 6c at Trollers on Saturday was pretty depressing. Must have lost some route stamina when I was away. Fair enough, need to do some routes before I go away.
Quiddity - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Good lord, all this success is getting a bit out of control.

Ali - nice one again on the epic passport mission. Impressed at the levels of dedication :-)

Eagle River - well done mate. Really well deserved.

re. Eagle River & biscuit re. knee bar pads - just a shout out for the upskill knee pads: I have the friction one with sticky rubber and it's ace. Fastens with velcro straps so no issues getting it on over your knee/trousers.
http://www.upskillclimbinggear.com/categories/Kneebar-Pads/
Some Americans on our recent trip to Kaly had the 5.10 knee pad and were giving it a good write up. Notable though that everyone who was at all serious about tufas/steepness there had one - the knee pad ship has sailed and it is now a standard piece of equipment like boulder mats, cams, rock shoes, and tape.

AJM - good effort getting Almost Me dispatched in double quick time. I was going to give you a shout for a day trip down there but it seems I'm too late! Looks mega. I think there is quite a lot of debate about the grade of the 7c+s to the right, Stitch That! in particular I believe is incorrectly graded - watched a guy onsight it who reckoned 7b+ and felt a bit cheated. From the logbooks consensus seems to be settling at 7b+. If you are down there with time to kill, have a look at Humming Bird, it's great.

From last week:

Ally smith - welcome back!

Pork Pie Girl - missed all the chat about Something Stupid but the sequence that everyone is talking about (left hand gaston in the divot to bump your left foot up high and reeeeach for the flake) is the one I use on the crux too. After that (to come back right) I end up stepping through with my left foot rather than foot swap, similar to what Eagle River said. Good luck on it.

Sorry to all the noteworthy achievements I have missed.
oddtoast on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers for the welcome :) Yeah, been climbing indoors for about 7 months, had a taster of rock before but a weekend in the peak definitely sealed the deal :p

STG: Do some form of exercise x3 a week - TICK
Lead a 5+ indoors - TICK

MTG: Consolidate 5+ indoors
Reliable/confident lead belayer
Get outdoors more

LTG: Not sure yet, keep at it and improve

M -nowt
T -Womens' climbing coaching at Harrogate, mainly bouldering (V0-V1)but also couple of routes including first clean (though inelegant) 5+ lead, yay :) Did some practice catching leader falls to improve my belaying confidence.
W -nowt
T -Bouldering at Red Goat - V0-V2, inc plenty that I hadn't done last time.
F- nowt
S -nowt
S - 7.5 mile bike ride, tarmac and offroad. Felt longer, need to pump up my tires! Setting a target and posting on here did help motivate me to get out and do it.

Tweak to goals:

STG: Do some form of exercise x3 a week
Consolidate 5+ indoors

MTG:Reliable/confident lead belayer
Get outdoors more

LTG: Not sure yet, keep at it and improve

grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to oddtoast:
Awesome! well done on the 5+
How did it feel?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Nik Jennings - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> Sat: Trollers Gill. Failed to clean lead 6c which was very annoying. Top roped Jim Grin. Unfit.

>Must have lost some route stamina when I was away.

I wonder what you could do about that...
oddtoast on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:
Great cheers and slightly suprising as was really struggling last time I tried a couple so am chuffed. Bouldering more is probably helping, but to be honest it felt more like improved willpower & confidence than technique (hence inelegant)!
Nomics4sale - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings:

Hmm... I wonder..... Maybe a coaching trip in October would help?? You wouldn't have a trip going by any chance?
grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I also heard rumours of a trip to font. (anyway enough advertising <cough> http://www.nikjennings.com/ )

ANyway nomics are you about this weekend? Fancy a trip to malham?
Nik Jennings - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
There may well be one remaining spot available on a forthcoming trip to Costa Blanca but I couldn't possibly say...

(Font is fully booked though Grubes).
AJM - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

> AJM - good effort getting Almost Me dispatched in double quick time. I was going to give you a shout for a day trip down there but it seems I'm too late! Looks mega. I think there is quite a lot of debate about the grade of the 7c+s to the right, Stitch That! in particular I believe is incorrectly graded - watched a guy onsight it who reckoned 7b+ and felt a bit cheated. From the logbooks consensus seems to be settling at 7b+. If you are down there with time to kill, have a look at Humming Bird, it's great.

Cheers! I thought it was great fun! Happy to supply beta and there's plenty more I fancy down there if you do make the trip! Iirc the supplement has downgraded Stitch That to 7b+ yes. Comments/votes on Drilling Fields seem a bit more sparse so who knows. My mate Simon has tried it and says it's good though. Humming bird also on the list, plus the others on that sector.
Ally Smith on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

I've got a home made knee pad i used for powerplant and a bunch of Spanish stuff. I recently invested in a 5.10 one; It's the bomb. You should practice just how much body tension you need for hanging out of one before going to Rodellar. Give me a shout if you want a list of recommended routes after my trip there last year.

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT

STG (end Oct 2012)
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger
- Supercool (Gordale)
- Dumpster divers (Diamond)
- Training link: Melancopout (LPT)

Also: Get bolts in Diamond and Orme projects

M (10th Sept) - Nowt. Sore fingers from sunday sessions :-(
T - Gym session. 3x circuits of Deadlift, b-curl, reverse flies, etc and rowing warm-up (2k, 7min 38s)
W - Nowt - DOMS in legs/bum from deadlift.
T - Nowt
F - Afternoon off work. Repeated SUL in Pigeons Cave 2nd go and worked extension. Then went round corner to Red Meat and got totally gripped trying to flash new route up the middle and even more scared trying to bolt a variation. First mind-f*ck like that for a good while. Intimidating place.
S - Back to Diamond. Worked new sequence for DD headwall. Did all the moves and got on RP. 3 good goes then power fade. Hopefully next time.
S - 45min aero-cap at Racecourse walls. then fecked my finger moving paving slabs in girlfriends garden. Big blood blister to work around.

Also, decided this week that i would go in for another structured training plan a well known coach. Hopefully will be able to tailor to my requirements a little better than this spring just gone.
Nomics4sale - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

Yes I am about this weekend but sorry I don't fancy Malham much.. Ideally I'd like to get out trad climbing but failing that Trollers for stamina training and to tick that annoying 6c. Fancy it?

I've lost track on where you are on Jim Grin, did you get it done? Or are you now a Malham devotee, warming up on Consenting? ;-) The reason I don't like Malham much is cos Consenting is the route I fell off and broke my leg into a milion pieces! Well done on your RP in a day.....
grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
That must be some shocking belaying.
I took the fall from the move to the third bolt 4 times never hit the ground.

Still not done Jim Grin Still falling at the same move. A friend summed it up last week. He said I just need to man the f*ck up and finish it.
Will let you know about trollers later in the week.
grubes - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to oddtoast:
Dont worry about style I remember climbing a route and having a friend describe it as watching a fish trying to climb a flight of stairs.
I still finished the route thats all that matters.
Pagan - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

> Pork Pie Girl - missed all the chat about Something Stupid but the sequence that everyone is talking about (left hand gaston in the divot to bump your left foot up high and reeeeach for the flake) is the one I use on the crux too. After that (to come back right) I end up stepping through with my left foot rather than foot swap, similar to what Eagle River said. Good luck on it.

I might be a bit late with this but I've never used the big flake on SS - I just go straight up to the big edge just to its right and clip from that. It could be worth PPG trying that instead, it feels much less reachy/awkward to me. I don't really remember what I do with my feet afterwards (unlike lots of Malham routes there are loads of options for your feet on this) other than a big rockover back left onto that same edge with my right hand in the crozzly undercut - feels a bit odd at first but as soon as you start to move it falls into place.
NMN - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si.
That is what I should do, but having never really climbed much through the winters i feel it has kind of gone now for this year, but when I redo goals for next year I should have 1 day per week as climbing.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)

M - 3.33m treadmill, 1.6%.
T - rest.
W - 7.00m trail/road run, 315ft.
T - 4.08m road run, 41ft.
F - nothing.
S - 7.43m trail run, 774ft.
S - nothing.
Steve John B - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Thanks Si. Returning to Fit Club after a few months off.

M -
T - quad stretches, core. booze
W - quad stretches
T - booze
F - quad stretches
S - 45 mins on bike, quad stretches, booze
S - 60 min run, quad stretches

- weight 180lb early sep target 168lb by mid-december
- plus daily foam roller for itb
- too much drinking (especially on school nights) = bad

goals for coming week: 2x run, 2x bike, 2x swim, 1x weights, lots of quad stretches
AJM - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to ally smith:

Ally,

Would be very keen on recommended route list (I know you offered to Nick, so maybe he has mailed you already, but just in case) - any top tips 7a-7c (quickly redpointable 7c!) would be much appreciated. I'll owe you a beer next I see you.

Agree about the 5.10 pad - having tried a Mrs Littlefair special, Nicks one, a 5.10 one and some random one Barrows had from the states the 5.10 was definitely my pick - not super comfy on the tendons on the back of the knee but very effective at getting weight off hands and onto knees.

Cheers,

Andy
Ian Bell - on 17 Sep 2012
10 more 7a (5/14)
2x7a+ (1/2)
1x7b

Awesome efforts from everyone. Seems all the rain did this year was delay the crushing! And thanks for the big up Si, been plenty strong enough to do HVS+ for ages but did mentally did feel a pretty good achievment.

T - WW. 13 routes incl autobelay. Tweaked finger a bit so stopped early. Did OS the 6B+ up the comp wall. Pretty easy really but OS with minimal effort which boded well for Kalymnos.
F - today - man flu and been sleeping almost 4 days solid. really nasty one ;-( meant the trip to Portland and the 2nd WW session didn't happen.

Won't be posting for the nexr 2 weeks as will be in Greece. Hopefully I can get well again in the next few days and won't have lost too much strength. No specific goals I think, a few more 7s would be nice but mainly just looking to enjoy it and de-stress a bit. Hope everyone continues the good work, been very inspiring watching the grades fall, especially the last month or so when everyone seems to have been on fire.
pebbles - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

( and hello Oh strangely toasted one! )

bit of a relaxed week!
tuesday routes never really got started as partner not psyched, so did some bouldering instead. put the effort into trying a few harder problems so had a fun session in the end. at least the wet weather means I havnt got weak over the summer :-)
thurs- more bouldering, good fun group session egging each other on up routes
fri- 30 min lunchtime run. still very out of practice - felt knackered after
sat- intended millstone but climbing partner wanted warmup so started off in lawrencefield and never made it out again! ended up on some delicate but poorly protected slabs, which is sorta my comfort zone these days. But pleased to get onto a route I had failed on previously and find that all that bouldering practice helped me find an alternative way round the long reach which had stopped me before.
sun - bouldered at brimham in light drizzle. nothing hard as everything a little damp (now theres a surprise)
pebbles - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: aha! you are (you know who you are) and I claim my 5!
pebbles - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to oddtoast:but to be honest it felt more like improved willpower & confidence than technique (hence inelegant)!

Ahem. I'v been watching your technique and its improving loads :-)

hokkyokusei - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> I said I'd do this for Dan this week as he's going to be late back.

Thanks for stepping in.

> Hokkyokusei - good hiking - 24 summits is a lot

Cheers, it was a great few days out.

Almost managed to meet my goals this week. Got the cycling and running in but was distracted by the Saltaire Festival and didn't get to the wall - doh!

m - Road biking 5.54 km, 5.55 km
t - Road biking 5.56 km, 5.58 km
- Road running 5.01 km
w - Road running 5.39 km
t - Road biking 5.70 km, 5.53 km
f - Road biking 5.55 km, 5.59 km
s - Road running 5.00 km
s -

STG
Cycle at least 40 km / week
Run at least 15 km / week
Get to the climbing wall once / week

MTG
Lose weight. I'd like to see how 75 kg feels (currently 82)
Run faster & further (not necessarily in combination)
Do some multipitch climbing

LTG
Climb big mountains.
Avoid a heart attack.
Nomics4sale - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:

I owe you a fiver for what exactly?? I'm a bit confused but that's nothing new...
pebbles - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: the daily mirror used to run a competition where some low paid hack used to turn up in various seaside towns in the guise of Chalky White carrying a copy of the Mirror, and if you walked up to him and identified him correctly "you are Chalky White and I claim my 5" you got a fiver. it was a long time ago and a fiver was worth a lot more then.
Sankey - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Two weeks, the middle weekend and last week curtailed by being on a conference

M:
T: Bike 16 miles 1600 feet
W:
T:
F:
S:
S:

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Bike 28 miles 3000 feet
S: Matrix - Short session up to Font 6b

STG: Get back into bouldering, trips to wall and outdoor circuits
...doing, ish subject to interuptions

MTG: Walnut Traverse at Birchen / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet

(VLTG: 7a Sport - can't see a route to this yet, managing 6b ish o/s but only after a fair few days on to get head back, e.g. end of a sport climbing holiday. Not climbing on a rope often enough due to partners/vague lack of quality/inspiration at these grades in UK,and would also need to find and commit to some red-point projects)
richardh - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

well done on Frankie, top effort. I took a plummet from the top before my RP of it.

have you found the hand-off rest on Truth Drug - once you get over the steep start, you can wedge your backside in the flake and have a breather for the next bit.

Tremelo and/or Metal Guru and/or Serious Young Toads might be good, different, 7c's to get going on dependent on your strengths.
Kevster - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

AJM: all the routes are in my logbook,
E3s Wolfman Jack (failed on THE last move) felt great until then, besides the nerves low down affecting form.
And second coming @ Landing craft bay.
E2s - Destiny, Hobbs Lane, Ice P1, road to Moscow,

Dan: Be carefull with the high balls please.

Everyone: WOW! Going to take some real effort to better this for a FC week.
I hear its good weather next 2 weekends....... Challenge down.
pork pie girl - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

cardio sometimes difficult to fit in by he time i get home late at night after climbing as can't go out until the afternoons /evenings at the moment.

last week

m gym.. cardio, weights (and pull ups) and core stability
t interval training on bike
w gym , cardio, weights, core
t int training on bike, climb at malham in rain.. wind blowing the rain on to crag. led most of ss clean but top too wet to RP, did 6 laps on it afterwards
f as above but very tired
s house move and stretching
s malham, RP attempt at SS, feel off top section a few times as it was wet through. p/m cardio


Something Stupid at malham is a pain in the rear end, it's wet too often , hoping it'll be dry at some point this week as i am so close and it's just conditions stopping me now.


Nomics4sale - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Ah. Of course? Well spotted, I've been tangoed! Have a fivers worth of beer next time we're out.
oddtoast on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pebbles:
Ehup - you had a busy week :) Thanks, it's nice to be making progress - the benefits of starting off so dire. You coming hut-ing this weekend? hope the weather holds off...
biscuit - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Well the biggest news on fit club this week is not all the raging successes that are going on but that i have finally finished the board of fitness ;-)

A couple of design flaws; the main one being that the concrete floor i was drilling the brackets into seems to be made of cheese, or something similarly unsuitable for expansion bolts. At the moment it's resting on it's legs and the wall bolts into a lintel seem to be doing the job. With my previously non existent DIY skills i am pretty chuffed.

Other than that i need a couple of things to make it 100% but i couldn't resist having a go tonight. Did 3 sets of 2 mins on 5 mins off. Not very interesting but it gives a hell of a pump and importantly it feels like a proper route pump. It's a very quick workout so i can get it done in the mornings before the day starts and maybe some pinch training in the evenings on non climbing days .I am also going to get some proper running done, at least an hour at a time.

I now have some wood left over that i am going to make a large pinch block out of and i am going to hang my old car battery off it and get some pinch training done. Every cloud has a sliver lining. The new battery cost me 70 euros but i get the old one for training.

Soon i shall be crushing - i hope. I'm feeling properly motivated for the first time in ages.
AJM - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Sounds good mate. Look forward to you fixing some ropes up routes for me next time we meet!
Daniel Heath - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to Si dH)
>

>
> Soon i shall be crushing - i hope. I'm feeling properly motivated for the first time in ages.

Good news, that was a quick build! You sound motivated.
JimmyKay - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Photo?
biscuit - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Too ashamed for a photo with my DIY skills. It's only 1 piece of 8x4 with 7 campus rungs going up the middle at the moment. Maybe if it gets developed i will pop a pic on. Due to hating DIy with a passion i have never really invested in any decent tools etc. I've discovered that power tools are quite good fun and make life a lot easier.

I am hoping this will be the missing link. Although i live in a place with awesome routes and a little bit more sun than the UK i still only get out once or twice a week due to work and general life at the moment. This is more due to the fact that my wife has been working 6 days a week for the last 3 or 4 mths so i was needed for the kids. I used to train down the wall of an evening but now i can't do that as there are no walls. The nearest training crag is 40 mins drive away. Too much time and too much petrol. This should be the solution. Get out twice a week to keep up the mileage on rock and get fit at home.

Must make a mention of Crusher holds. The rungs are excellent and the customer service was spot on. I asked one question and got a load of info back from Paul about spacings/angles, training articles etc. Good man.
JimmyKay - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit

Not as extensive as Alex's then? ;-)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517
Eagle River - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to richardh:

Thanks. Yep found the hands off rest (someone pointed it out to me at the crag). Think I'll need it after that start.

Thanks for the suggestions too, although I'm going to have to choose one based purely on how likely it is to stay dry at this rate, never mind what suits my style!
thebigfriendlymoose - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Metal Guru isn't a bad choice - it's one of the very few 7c's I've done and is at the dry end of Kilnsey. The hardest bit is the start - I got it wired by bouldering it out above mats when I had a free half-day and no belayer.
Rollo - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Hope you don't mind if I join in. I need some motivation as I'm getting back to fitness after a bike crash and shoulder injury. Thanks, Roly

STG:
Get fit again
Climb (3 times per week)
Get outdoors (climbing, walking, cycling)

MTG:
Get back to HVS and 6b
Run 32mi for my mates 32nd b'day
Get out for a big weekend walk with wild camping

LTG:
Crack into the E-grades
Do some Scottish winter stuff

Last Week:
M- 10k run
T- 50k bike
W- 9k run
T- Jive dance class!!
F- 50k bike
S-
S- 127k bike (first time with local club)

I was back climbing for the first time in four weeks yesterday. Hurrah

Cheers, Roly


biscuit - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to biscuit
>
> Not as extensive as Alex's then? ;-)
>
> http)//www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517

Not quite no. I was never certain why someone who worked at a climbing wall needed one at home as well ?
Quiddity - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Awesome. Very jealous actually, would love a home board but we have absolutely nowhere to put one. Now you're cooking with gas!

I think we need a picture for the good of the rest of the class.

When is phase 2 being implemented? (ie. the vertically oriented banister rails)
mattrm - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks for doing fit club this week Si.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no progress)
2 - Improve finger strength (need to buy a fingerboard...)
3 - Improve footwork (footwork focused session done)
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 2lbs

M - Rest
T - 4k fartlek run (25 mins, I'm slllloooowwww)
W - 1 hour footwork focused bouldering session
T - 8k run
F - Rest
S - Visiting Gran
S - DIY

An ok running week and the footwork session was good. Never tried a circuit board at the wall before, so surprised to get half way round the circuit before falling off. Busy weekend visiting my Gran, who is sadly very ill and then doing lots of painting, tidying and general DIYing on Sunday. Got the gym membership sorted finally, so hoping to get some Yoga and swimming in.
Quiddity - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si, and good job on the high tor E3, you are really tearing through your goals for the year. Need more ambitious ones?

> I'm impressed by how much structure/science you always put in to your training.

It's not science it just looks like science because of all the arcane abbreviations which I use in place of a coherent narrative of what I have been doing.

Pleased to finally do Road Rage this week, has been a personal milestone and long-term goal for years. It's taken me ages but for once I am not that bothered - It was the first route harder than 7a+ I ever tried, I remember the first time I tried it the moves were individually right at my limit and the whole thing felt like a fantasy level of hard climbing. Apart from anything, it's been a joy to climb and work on, happy memories of slowly putting the sequence together, going round and round endurance circuits carefully constructed around it at the wall, taking proper screaming falls off the top while preparing myself to skip the clip by practicing the fall. we've got used to spending long laid back days down by the sea, enjoying crisp winter sunshine or basking in late autumn heat, more often than not by ourselves, watching seals and peregrines. Feel very ambivalent. Planning on moving on to one of the other routes down there but Road Rage I suspect is the classic of that wall.

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:35 +1
Redpoint a mega steep 7-something in Rodellar
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick (Nightmare Scenario) and Road Rage tick
Infinite G - do all the moves, redpoint to first lower off.

2012/13 season:
Do hard routes quickly, ie. - 7a+ < 2nd go, 7b < 3rd go, 7b+ < 1day, 7c < 2day. Stretch goals - o/s 7a+ in UK, o/s 7b, 7b+ 2nd go, 7c in 2 days.
- scoreboard: (2d, 1d, 3go, 2go, fl, o/s) - 7a+: (6,4,0,[2,3,3]) 7b: (6,3,[1,1,0,1]) 7b+: (0,[3,1,0,0,0]) 7c: ([0,0,0,0,0,0])
Maintain 9,000 8a.nu points


MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.


LTG - 2013/14
Infinite G

Endurance week 2 of 3. Pretty busy - between lots of work and driving lessons, climbing sessions have been stripped down to 90 minute warm up-endurance-go home affairs. Estimated volume 983 moves total, (27% -46% - 26% - 0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh, 52% routes)

M:
T: 4x4s session before work. 4x4 on Mezz - v4v3v2v3, (v4)v3v2v3v2, v4v3v2v3, v4(v3)v2v3v2. with 2'00 rest Pumped + out of breath. powered down? PM - linkups in catacombs. Got link of pink into black (26 moves/7b?) and then did twice into purple (to failure - 30, 36 moves).
W: AM - sacked lead session off before it began, too tired and under-caloried. Went home, ate something, got a short endurance session in on the crimp wall. Warmed up, then doing intervals to failure (approx 2' on, 2' off x4 plus 2x 2'30 laps with total recovery.) Probably ~25 moves per lap, 7a ish, 175 moves. Full-on slow-burn arm-busting pump.
T: 4x4s. v4(v3)v2/3v3, v4v3v2/3v3, v4v3v2/3v3(v2), (v4)(v3)v2/3(v3) with 1'50 rest. Interesting - tried to tag on one extra not-that-hard problem into my third set - actually it seemed that (combined with slightly shorter rest time) was enough to push me far enough over the edge to produce failure in pretty much every problem in the 4th set.
F:
S: Road Rage. Linking go to warm up, then redpointing. First go to the headwall, 2nd go to the triangle crimp, tweaked the sequence slightly to add in one more foot move as that is a few times I've dropped it from there on redpoint, then ticked it next go. The first and only time I have not felt pumped on it. End of an era.
S: Warmed up on Road Rage, then had a look at the moves on Illusions. Looks a bit less sustained than RR, it has two very hard sections and a short stretch of easier climbing in the middle where you would probably try to get a shake. Some great moves on it but also some nasty locks off very thin/conditionsy/skin eating holds. Missing a hard move or two from each hard section. Not sure if I'm mega keen to come back to it, might try something else next time we are down there.
biscuit - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Quiddity:
> (In reply to biscuit)

> When is phase 2 being implemented? (ie. the vertically oriented banister rails)

When i can find some wood that isn't going to cost me 60 euros :-( Wood in general is a lot more expensive than i thought.

I have some 4x2 left over so may borrow a sander and put strips of that on with the edges smoothed down. For the moment though i am going to pinch blocks of wood with weights attached.

Well done on Road Rage. A real marker in showing how far you're progressed.
Ali - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to ally smith)
>
> Ally,
>
> Would be very keen on recommended route list (I know you offered to Nick, so maybe he has mailed you already, but just in case) - any top tips 7a-7c (quickly redpointable 7c!) would be much appreciated. I'll owe you a beer next I see you.

Also keen for recommendations for good, doable 7a-a+s, or any 7bs that are particularly quick to get (prob for me short crux section that's ok to work out), though I suspect unless the grades are softer than I think 7b may be a tad ambitious! The beers are lining up...

Pork pie girl - rubbish about wetness at Malham :o( Sounds like you have SS wired though - is it worth getting on something else (perhaps something more reliably dry) so you can have a couple of projects to work on? What's dry at the moment?

Quiddity - nice work on Road Rage :o) After that description I really want to try it! At some point I need to catch up with you guys so we can start working projects together! ;-)

Biscuit - impressed by the sound of your board - agree about needing a pic! ;-) Really feel like having a fingerboard or some training device at home would by of huge benefit for me, but can't work out how I could get something set up (door frames not conducive to removeable setup and housemate vetoed sticking one above the door)... makes me want my own place again :-(

Eagle River - once again, nice work :-)

AJM - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

Didn't think grades had a terribly hard rep (had heard the opposite but then as usual it's probably based on a few popular soft touches), but wait and see I guess.

On my Flikr profile (linked from ukc profile) I used to have some photos of a removable fingerboard setup I had (plus of my current free-standing setup, which works anywhere) - if you use the pullup bars which hook over the top of the frame you can do it on a fairly wide range of door frames.

Shout if you want more info. Alternatively I don't really use my rock rings and that hook-over pullup bar at the minute (although I may have to do so again if I end up working away from home) so could loan you those if you have any hope of it being a short term trouble not being able to rig anything at home.
Ali - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: The problem is that there isn't a door in the house which you could hang that from...

Bedroom door - doorframe on one side (right up against sidewall), other side no room above doorframe and door doesn't open fully due to tinyness of room

Living room door - has one of those folding doors which prevents bracing anything against one side, other side is right against wall (no door frame)

Kitchen - doorframe on one side, no space to brace against frame

Bathroom - probably not ideal, but think it has a window bit above the door so wouldn't be suitable...
Ali - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: And I don't think my housemates would take kindly to having a freestanding set up in the living room!
AJM - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

Argue harder ;)

Or put it in the bedroom?

Or just do what you know is right; move house :)
Ali - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: Lol, you haven't seen the size of my bedroom! Remind me to show you a photo, then you'll see why I laugh ;-)

I know...but that may involve not being able to afford climbing trips - such a toss up!
biscuit - on 18 Sep 2012

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