/ NEWS: Ed Hamer - 24 grade 8's in France

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UKC News - on 17 Sep 2012
Ed Hamer - Gorges du Loup, 4 kbYoung British climber Ed Hamer has just returned from an amazing trip to the South of France, climbing at the Gorges du Loup and Chateauvert in perfect clear conditions.

Ed has returned with a huge haul of quality routes including an incredible 24 grade 8's.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67432

proze - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News: "Peak Ales" - Best. Sponsor. Ever. :D
pbla4024 - on 17 Sep 2012
What does 1st RP means? It cannot mean 1st RP and it cannot mean 2nd Go.
goli - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pbla4024: It means first redpoint..... i.e worked the moves then did it.
Adam Lincoln - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pbla4024:
> What does 1st RP means? It cannot mean 1st RP and it cannot mean 2nd Go.

It means he had a flash/onsight go, or dogged up route to work moves, then he did it on his first redpoint go.
Robert Durran - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> It means he had a flash/onsight go, or dogged up route to work moves, then he did it on his first redpoint go.

Just out of interest, if you work a route on a top rope fifty times and then get it in one the first attempt on lead, does this still count as "1st RP"?

Adam Lincoln - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> Just out of interest, if you work a route on a top rope fifty times and then get it in one the first attempt on lead, does this still count as "1st RP"?

Bit of a grey area i guess Robert. In theory though, yes.

JimmyKay - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Wow. 2 8c's first RP. Seriously impressive stuff.
Ed Booth - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News: Total beast !! Inspiring! Well done Ed
pbla4024 - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to oliverg:
Not possible.
First two thirds of routes Hot Chili Beans Volcano and Hot ChiliX are shared, you cannot do both of them second go.
I was under impression that he flashed the 8b+, but did not mark it as such because last few meters (around 7b) are shared with Deversé Satanique.
AJM - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to pbla4024:

He all-but-flashed the 8b+ as you say - I'd gone home by the time he did the 8c but my impression from his blog or 8a comment, I forget which, was that it was the first go on that particular link.
silo - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: Robert Durran:what is the point of red pointing it's just a nonsece and what is the point other than training.Perhaps the climbing Media should only report on-sights and flashes.And leave red pointing for what it is training!
3 Names - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to silo:

Are you sure your a climber?
3 Names - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

Good effort Ed
nathanlee - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to silo:

nice troll. great trip.
GuyVG - on 17 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

strong Ed, stronger hair do, keeping the faith.
IainWhitehouse - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Ed.
TradHolden - on 18 Sep 2012
Nice 1 Ed! Hope you and ya bro keep crushing, I'm sure the 9's will go soon!
Boy - on 18 Sep 2012
In reply to silo: Isn't it about time UKC had a like/unlike button on posts so that things like this comment can get the short shrift they deserve without people having to waste time typing?
Sebosa on 19 Sep 2012 - p4FC71ADB.dip.t-dialin.net
In reply to UKC News:
The picture of “Ed Hamer enjoying some deep water soloing on his recent trip to France” is taken in the Vallon Sourn in Chateauvert. The local guidebook and multiple large signs throughout the valley clearly point out that the right bank of the Argens river is a nature reserve where climbing is forbidden. The crag that Ed is climbing in the photo is unfortunately on the right riverbank. Whilst being exceptionally tempting to DWS these cliffs and that many children dive into the water from that side, we as visitors to this lovely region should respect and adhere to the local access regulations. It is what we expect of visitors to our local crags and therefore we should behave in the same manner when we are doing the visiting. The guidebook explains the history of climbing in the valley and the compromise solution that was found between outdoor activities, environmental protection and the landowners. Chateauvert is too beautiful a climbing venue to jeopardise and a rich eco system we should help to preserve. So please do not follow Ed's example, however stunning the photo is or tempting the lines are when sunbathing at the river, and climb only in the permitted zones.
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GuyVG - on 19 Sep 2012
In reply to Boy:
> (In reply to silo) Isn't it about time UKC had a like/unlike button on posts so that things like this comment can get the short shrift they deserve without people having to waste time typing?

like
GuyVG - on 19 Sep 2012
In reply to Sebosa:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> The picture of “Ed Hamer enjoying some deep water soloing on his recent trip to France” is taken in the Vallon Sourn in Chateauvert. The local guidebook and multiple large signs throughout the valley clearly point out that the right bank of the Argens river is a nature reserve where climbing is forbidden. The crag that Ed is climbing in the photo is unfortunately on the right riverbank. Whilst being exceptionally tempting to DWS these cliffs and that many children dive into the water from that side, we as visitors to this lovely region should respect and adhere to the local access regulations. It is what we expect of visitors to our local crags and therefore we should behave in the same manner when we are doing the visiting. The guidebook explains the history of climbing in the valley and the compromise solution that was found between outdoor activities, environmental protection and the landowners. Chateauvert is too beautiful a climbing venue to jeopardise and a rich eco system we should help to preserve. So please do not follow Ed's example, however stunning the photo is or tempting the lines are when sunbathing at the river, and climb only in the permitted zones.

Thanks for the info, I'm sure Ed wouldn't have knowingly gone against the area's access agreements
grant727 - on 20 Sep 2012
In reply to Boy: Like

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