/ Taping or using jamming gloves
When I got back to the peak I thought I would give it a go, it made jamming so much nicer and I don't leave with blood all over my hands. I might even get on the VICE!!!. I have always been deterred by this route after seeing what it did to my mates hands and I never bothered getting on it.
So what does everyone else think? are gloves and tape the way forward or does British stubbornness and ethics mean that it should be left for the American pansy's?
I think the Alps is fair game. But if you wear them in the Peak, you may attract the same sort of look a Transvestite might get at Carlisle United's home end.
You were told going to the match like that wasn't a good idea.
Tape - fine
Jamming gloves - cheating
Like wearing rock shoes makes it much easier?
I suspect the gloves are a step too far (unless they're gardening gloves bought for you by your mum like Pete Whittaker's, in which case kudos), but I did tape up to do the Vice earlier this year and I'd definitely recommend it.
I think the double vested one is out of date.
These days if you're enthusiastically launching yourself into grit jamming routes, especially wide carnivorous one like the Vice, the looks you get from the wall-bred climbers around you are likely to be the same weird mixture of awe, pity and disgust regardless of whether you're wearing gloves or not.
Ethics. I don't make the rules, it's just the way it is.....
Tape gloves are much better I reckon and I use them shamelessly!
Well since I use rock shoes on my feet so I can't see the logic of why it would be cheating/unethical to put something similar on my hands....but at the same time it just seems plain wrong. Dunno why.
People who bang on about how great jamming is should not wear gloves or tape.
People who don't like jamming should.
There you go, easy as pie.
They're a cul de sac to your jamming technique, learn all the sizes, and enjoy the pain along the way.
> People who bang on about how great jamming is should not wear gloves or tape.
> People who don't like jamming should.
> There you go, easy as pie.
Ha! Mavis can't jam, who knew.
Never tried them but as I am currently wearing the results of doing The File last weekend, I'd be prepared to give them a go!
In a strictly non-American non-pansy way, of course...
> Jamming gloves - cheating
I actually own jamming gloves now - just back from an ace weekend of crack climbing (see if this link works https://twitter.com/TobyinHelsinki/status/247794469875888128 ). Many Finnish climbers do. My conclusion having had them for a couple of years now is that they are NOT as good as tape, they are just easier to put on and off and in the long run are cheaper - although its amazing how much use you can get out of a good tape glove. Some cracks they might actually help by being just that bit fatter, but then equally there will me cracks where that extra width is an active disadvantage.
I find the wrist strap of them gets hooked up easily in deep jams which is annoying, but do it up to tight and it adds to the pump in your forearms.
The main reason to use tape or gloves is on climbing holidays. If you go to, say, Lofoten and are climbing predominantly cracks, you hands will be much healthier by day 3 or 4 if you tape up.
BTW, my experience of Grit hand and fist cracks is that the rock is much less abrasive than granite, so I can see the argument they're less necessary. The Aberdoonians and Cornishmen/women, could probably get their money's worth out of some gloves though.
I was amazed at the number of people we saw out in Lofoten with jamming gloves but it makes sense when you're there for a holiday and you want to climb every day. I took tape with the intention to make gloves but in the end the skin on the backs of my hands stayed in decent condition, probably due to us not doing anything particularly hard (jamming up slabs is a lot easier than I'd expected). And the post-climbing alcohol hand gel experience was too good to miss out on by using gloves...
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