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 Topic - Belaying from the rope loop
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 by - Jonny2vests  on - 17 Sep 2012 |
Since I arrived in Canada (8 months ago), I've had a steady stream of mates, randoms and guides come up to me and telling me 'I'm gonna die' if I belay from the rope loop; it is completely taboo in N America.
I have read all the threads, the UKC article, BMC booklets, yadda yadda yadda, all good stuff, in search of a good argument against the crux of theirs:
If the rope loop were to be loaded in such a way that the two strands out of the fig 8 were opposing, what's to stop it inverting? You might say (as Dan Middleton - BMC Tech Officer did) that this configuration is almost impossible to obtain when belaying, but if it did happen (surely it must have), why is nobody dead yet? Maybe a Jim Titt or an Rgold (yes, I've read those threads too) out there could provide a bombproof rebuttal. |
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