/ trad rack
Start with either a full set of Rocks or Wallnuts and a few quickdraws. Beyond that I would waite until you have climbed with partners gear a bit to see what your preference is.
Search something like "beginners' rack" on here and you'll find plenty of advice as it's a common question, and the previous comment to try other people's stuff if you can is also a good hint.
buy a set of 5 quick draws, a set of nuts and maybe a big sling and a screw gate
I presume you already have a rope, harness, belay set and a nut key?
If your partner is also a novice encourage him/her to get a few hexes and another 5 QDs
We have a list of gear which may help: http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=285f8f26-74d0-4578-9893-9c9e00a587e6
Get good gear from the off so you slowly build up a really nice rack.
There are set of WC nuts on the for sale forum from the ex engineer. If they are coloured start with them.
Double axled cams over single axles. That'll be dragons or camelots. Much nicer to use and place. I use camelots but would prob choose dragons if I bought again due to the extendable sling.
light is right, if possible try and get light stuff. Changing to phantom quickdraws made a noticable difference to my rack weight when climbing.
As said, try and hold and use other people's gear so you can see what will work for you. Where you climb will also make a difference to what you need.
Many racks put an over emphasis on cams.
For prot gear:
1 set of nuts..
Then I would get a different types of prot gear so you can learn the pros and cons of each + proper placement. Once you know how the gear handles you can decide what is right for you.
one small ballnut .. size 2 perhaps.. depends on area where you climb.. these are really good on thin cracks.
tricam .. get one large size (or bundle of 4 small ones).. If you pick one, take one that has a range from your fist width thumb up <<>> knuckles sideways.. (or bit smaller than that).
one hex (or half set) these are fairly cheap so you get lots of peaces with moderate amount of money. If you pick only one take a size that fills gaps in range
one cam other size than you picked with tricams.. if set of 4 small tricams.. pick one for fist size.. if you picked fist size tricam, pick hand width. Of standard cams I prefer dmm 3cu - two axis design is good (thou this means bigger (heavy) cams which are not preferred tool for protection for me.
quick draws 5 or 6.. there are bundles that might save a bit. Lose biners and runners will give you better options (length) in trad climbing.
Few screw gates and 1 long runner and 1 medium
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