/ VS-HVS multipitch in the Lake District

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Alex Munnery - on 20 Sep 2012
Hiya, I'm looking to do 80 meter plus routes that are between VS and HVS in the Lakes. I'm not too fussed where in the Lakes. If people know any good routes, please let me know!!!
Gordon Stainforth - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery:
> Hiya, I'm looking to do 80 meter plus routes that are between VS and HVS in the Lakes. I'm not too fussed where in the Lakes. If people know any good routes, please let me know!!!

If? There are just so many that people are going to be very stuck to advise you.
Exile - on 21 Sep 2012
JanBella - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery: Pluto on raven crag in langdale is ace!
Si Withington - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery:

Eagle Front, Eagle Crag (Buttermere)
Eliminate A, Dow Crag
Troutdale Pinnacle Super Direct, Black Crag
Grooved Wall, Pillar Rock
Nor'-Nor'-West Climb, Pillar Rock
Silver Lining, Scafell Shamrock
Sinister Grooves, Buckstone How
Square chimney / Medusa Wall, Esk Buttress
Calder - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to siwithington:
> (In reply to Alex Munnery)
>
> Eagle Front, Eagle Crag (Buttermere)
> Eliminate A, Dow Crag
> Troutdale Pinnacle Super Direct, Black Crag
> Grooved Wall, Pillar Rock
> Nor'-Nor'-West Climb, Pillar Rock
> Silver Lining, Scafell Shamrock
> Sinister Grooves, Buckstone How
> Square chimney / Medusa Wall, Esk Buttress

Also........

-White Ghyll is a good place for you - several excellent VS's including the massively excellent Haste Not
-Pavey for Golden Slipper and Rake End Wall
-Gimmer.......... nuff said
-And yes, Scafell for Boterills/MGG/etc and so on.
Trevor Langhorne on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery:
"Exile" got it right, buy a guidebook and get stuck in, if it is in the FRCCC Lakeland Rock Guide then it will be good. What is the reason for needing only 80m plus - routes like Hedera Grooves, Spinup and Illusion on Lower Falcon's in Borrowdale have a wow factor out of all proportion to their length. (plus a short walk in, afternoon sun and an easy descent). Similarly for the White Ghyll VS's.
LakesWinter on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery:

There are so many and they are so good!

But to start, running roughly south to north
Murray's Direct and Leopard's Crawl, Dow (might not quite be 80m each tho)
Arcturus/Golden Slipper combination or Rake End Wall on Pavey Ark are both fantastic and over your length threshold.
The Crack, Gimmer
Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect, fairly straightforward HVS, pitch 3 is the best lead.
Alex Munnery - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery: Thanks very much everyone!!! I'm psyched to get out on these routes!
Alex Munnery - on 21 Sep 2012
In reply to Trevor Langhorne: Hiya Trevor, I recently climbed Tophet Wall, which is 75 metres and loved the level of exposure but was looking to do higher and harder multipitch. I've done a lot of HVS single pitch routes but love the idea of linking a long series of VS-HVS pitches. Thanks very much for the suggestions, I really like the look of them!
Trevor Langhorne on 22 Sep 2012
In reply to Alex Munnery:
Tophet wall - ahh brings back happy memories, did it as a schoolboy far too many years ago. Fully endorse all the other suggestions here and try these for size.

Gt Eastern/yellow slab & centaur on scafell's East Buttress - latter is reckoned to be quite tough for HVS by many but i have always found it OK.

Thanatos/Electron combo on Pillar Rock great HVS with a belting crack pitch on electron. Also on Pillar good combo's for a long route include NNW route (already suggested) follwed by Gommorrah with alternative finish. Easier at VS is NW follwed by SW climb (marvel at the audactity of the early pioneers on this combo of about 200+ metres plus scambing. Harder is Grooved Wall (already mentioned) followed by Vandal. For some of these combo's you need to read the guide carefully and follow the easy scramble (Old Weast Route I think) to get from the top of Pillar Rock Low Man down to the beautifully sunny West Face of Pillar Rock.

On eagle Crag in Buttermere a nice combination after Eagle Front is to Climb Fifth Avenue the carefully scramble leftwards (roped up!)into Central Chimney. then either have a lobotomy and finish up Central Chimney (think of a repulsive green and slimy cleft then make it a milion times worse) or continue the scamble left out of the chimney line and do the "inter war years classic" Easter Buttress.

On Gable Crag the obvious Sledgate Ridge followed by Engineers Slabs.

Enjoy.

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