/ London based aid climbing "teacher" wanted
I'd like to get my teeth on aid climbing. I have reasonable amount of trad experience and multi-pitch climbing but none with aid.
I never took any climbing course, learnt everything from friends or on my own, but Im pretty intimidated with tons of gear with aid climbing. Still I want to learn this stuff. I just moved to London from Poland and I do not have yet many friends here who can show me the tricks so this is the deal -
If anybody interested in giving me few lessons on a indoor wall (preferably Castle or Mile End) in basic aid climbing techniques? We can use the bolts for this, cant we? I'll pay per hour :)
I'd be very grateful.
Ask the wall first, but essentially you want to put a carabiner through every bolt and aid off that. It means you will not damage the nylon tape on the insitu quickdraws at most wall. Generally the bolts are close enough together to aid at a wall but you will have climb normally to the first bolt.
It it actually a really good place to learn, as you often have to top step to make the distance between bolts. You also get loads of practice in the process of aid climbing. I run 'How to Big Wall' courses in Wales and the first day is all done in a indoor wall. Mainly because the amount of really good practice you can do.
I wrote an article for climber last year, have a look for it. It was a two part series the most important part for learning was part 1. I think is was imaginatively called "how to Big Wall Climb - part1"
As well as aiding consider practicing jumaring, jumaring deviations and jumaring horizontal traverses which are exactly the same type of problem you get jumar across roofs. If you are interested in a course.
If I was in your shoes I'd definitely grab a couple of days coaching with Mark up in Wales.
Elsewhere on the site
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more