UKC

I think I need to re-proof my waterproof (e-vent) water is no longer beading but sheeting over the surface and making things a bit soggy.

How do you do yours?

In reply to andic:

Try washing it first; it may just be dirty. A soap wash first, and if that doesn't help, or it's obviously very mucky with body oil residues, a detergent wash followed by a soap wash to remove the detergent residues (which will otherwise negate the DWR).

I find the secret to re-proofing is a clean washing machine; get rid of all traces of detergent powder gunk in the tray and water path. Then do a machine clean cycle (read the manual). I use liquid detergent in a ball, rather than use the 'soap tray'; this means I don't get gunk build-up...

Then use whichever wash-in treatment you prefer; Nikwax or Grangers.

In reply to andic: I bought a tabletop washing machine for reproofing, which detergent has never touched - I use Nikwax tech wash and then the wash-in reproofer - I've never been happy about using the washing machine due to the detergent buildup in it, which I doubt anything would eliminate - but then mine was pretty old

In reply to andic:

Event seems to be very sensitive to traces of detergent. I usually wash the detergent draw out and do an empty wash as hot as possible before putting the jacket in. Use NikWax Techwash followed by their reproofer stuff and this seems to work ok.

I do find that once the initial DWR has gone, subsequent reproofing lasts nowhere near as long.

In reply to andic:

I've got the same problem with my Rab Latok and have been thinking for some time that I should do something about it. The sleeves are the worst as they just seem to absorb water and it becomes really unpleasant to wear. It started doing this not long after I got it, so I never really use it that much.

I have an old paclite jacket from Berghaus that has seen far more use and it still beads water and keeps me much drier.

In reply to captain paranoia:

I had this discussion recently - washing frequently is important apparently because the thing which compromises its performance most is natural oils from the skin (as you say). Hence why it actually does need detergent which frankly I find terrifying. Rinsing a couple of times but also apparently important is the step of either tumble drying it or ironing it. Yes, I used the I word. Sorry about that. No detergent which includes fabric conditioner should be used either.

In reply to andic:

Ive got a Latock & reproofed it several times with successful beading results.

I took the detergent draw out of my washing maching gave it a good hot rinse. Put it back in the machine. Washed the garment with tech wash first then with the Tx direct on a slow spin. Then wacked it in the tumble dryer on a cool cycle, checking on it every few mins. Putting it in the tumble is a scary experience at first but it really makes the jacket bead well. looks good as new now.

Simple as that. Rab say to wash their event jackets often. Probably works out more often than a goretex shell.

In reply to rob514: I'd agree - I found event needed washing more than goretex, which is why I went back to goretex. Event do say to wash with liquid detergent but to rinse twice.

In reply to andic:

My Alpine Latok reproofs no problem.

Clear the washing machine detergent tray of any residue conditioners or detergents.

Place items in drum with the advised amount of cleaner/proofer as stated on the bottle in a Ariel ball (or two if required).

Place on a 40*C wash on easy care (or 30 if it's primaloft or softshell)

Drip dry on the washing line, place in the tumble dryer once it can be picked up without dripping (still damp) for about 40-60mins on the coolest heat setting.

et voila - it should be reproofed.

Tips on washing your washing machine - take the tray out and clean of all goo and gloop that may reside. And also the slot in which the tray is insterted.

Clean/clear the filter at the bottom of you washing machine if it has one (usually behind a access panel - make sure you place a towel on the floor below it - about a hlaf glass of water will come out.)

Place some washing machine cleaner (usually a commercial product that you can buy online - not usually available in the supermarkets - look on google) in a empty machine on 90*C once a month.

In reply to all:
Cheers

Sounds straight forward, the problem is on the cuffs and front area, basically the bits that get scuffed and touched by my grubby mits a lot.

will give it a go over the weekend

In reply to AlisonSmiles:


Rinsing will remove some detergent traces, but a soap wash is better.

Ironing or tumble drying will work for a while on a new-ish jacket, since the heat helps to re-distribute the DWR treatment.

Care must be taken not to iron or tumble too hot; the face fabric can melt, or the seam seal tape glue can melt in the dryer... Regular checks and low heat setting are advised...

Gore and Event seem to change their washing instructions a lot; it a bit of 'mutually assured destruction', where each seems to be trying to say their fabric is easier to clean. Gore used to say 'use any detergent', apparently not caring that their DWR would be compromised. My only conclusion was that the majority of Gore users didn't care about breathability or wetting out. Their website instructions now say nothing other than, effectively, 'read the f*cking label'... Great.

Event originally said to use only soap. Then they found problems with body oil causing reverse osmosis leakage in their open pore structure (exactly as Gore did with Gen 1 Gore-tex). So they revised their instructions to suggest a detergent wash to remove the body oil traces, followed by a soap wash to remove the detergent traces... I think they've now caught up with Gore from a few years back, so say 'use any detergent'...

Personally, I try to avoid using detergent on any DWR-treated item, unless I really have to. I try a clean water wash, then a soap wash, and then detergent followed by soap if it really seems needed.