/ Rock shoes
The days when a new pair of shoes allowed a half or full grade uptick are over. At the moment what is on offer is total rubbish. Some of the more sensible designs like Sportiva Cliff have been discontinued.
This is a hopeless situation, manufacturers and designers should take note.
Of what? You haven't said what was so good about the boots you have liked in the past or what's so bad about the current crop of boots.
how about the scarpa thunder?
Curent offerings have weird shapes, asymmetric, rounded heels (which are useless), breathing holes that mean you just get wet feet on ledges, fabrics are too stretchy, they fall apart quickly, uncomfortable - badly made, badly designed.
There is an opening for the return of common sense.
There you go.
Since I too thought Ballets were the bees knees and was p'd off when mine finally fell apart after 2 resolings, only for me to find I didn't like the latest version (this was about 10 years ago, or more) you might like the shoes I've got on best with since.
FiveTen Spire - have rounded heel I'm afraid but apart from that fit your criteria well I think. CragX have 'em in all sizes and CHEAP.
FiveTen Newton - now discontinued but Rock n Run have them in sizes up to 10 - or did when I went for yet another pair last week whilst I could still get 'em.
I wonder if in 20 years time there will be crusty old boulderere and sport climbers complaining that they can't get downturned, banana shaped torture devices on forums?
For what it's worth you could look at 5.10 coyotes.
Elsewhere on the site
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
On the run up to Christmas we have some great savings on all your favourite brands, so its the perfect time to do the... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more