/ Mowingword bolt

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gg4419 - on 25 Sep 2012
Does anyone know anything about the brand new looking bolt hanger at Mowingword? It's near the top pitch of New morning about 1/3 of the way up the head wall and 15ft to the right of the New Morning crack when looking at the wall.
nickstephens - on 25 Sep 2012
Hi Gareth,

Have you seen this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=374248

Not as shiney as we may have thought although in the wrong place seeing as its been led free subsequently. Unless its been replaced recently.

Nick
Marcus Buckley - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to nickstephens: I saw the bolt in early July and thought it looked very new/shiney. I certainly didn't look like it had seen a winter.
gg4419 - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to nickstephens:

Pretty sure Dawn Chorus takes a different line to the bolt. Either way it doesn't look attractive in the cliff on the blank section.
3 Names - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to gg4419:

bump
Dave Garnett - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to gg4419:

Am I missing something here? Is this a sustained troll? I'm surprised that the bolt didn't spontaneously ignite and melt on contact with the sacred limestone.

Given that didn't happen, why the hell hasn't somebody taken it out? I thought the bolt-free status of Pembroke was well-known and uncontroversial.
3 Names - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Im also not sure why this hasn't attracted more attention. Maybe after the Eroica saga, most people are treating it as a troll?
The Pylon King on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

How do you know its being taken care of? I have notified the relevant person and he is going down to deal with it at the weekend.
3 Names - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

Nice one Mark, do you have any more details about this?
The Pylon King on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

No, sorry, not at the moment.
Dave Garnett - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
>
> How do you know its being taken care of? I have notified the relevant person and he is going down to deal with it at the weekend.

I should have thought that the relevant person would have been the next person who saw it, but thanks for organising the appropriate response.

waj - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to gg4419: I was there a few weeks ago and can confirm that the bolt is there.
Kemics - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I imagine chopping a bolt actually takes a bit of effort and it's pretty likely the next person who sees it wont be climbing with the kind of hardware required. Maybe if they did a good job and over drilled the hole and it's expansion you only need a spanner and a hammer. But what if it's a staple? If it's a sea cliff you'd hope so. I'm more annoyed by people who do a shoddy job of chopping bolts. Just cutting the bolt leaves something equally as ugly.
GrahamD - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Kemics:

Its only partially an aesthetics argument. Here, a chopped bolt is infinitely preferable to a whole one - unless it is to dangle the original perpetrator by the bollocks from.
waj - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Kemics: Its an expansion bolt, so spanner and hammer should do.
nickstephens - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Had I been prepared, I would have taken care of it myself and made a bloody good job of removing the eye sore (I consider it on a par with going into somebodies living room and sh&*^ing on the floor). As for notifying the appropriate people, I think we've done quite a good job :o)

Now to sort out the issue of the bolts that have appeared on our doorstep! It seems somebody has been busy in Cornwall as well.
Iain Peters - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to nickstephens:
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
>
Now to sort out the issue of the bolts that have appeared on our doorstep! It seems somebody has been busy in Cornwall as well.

Can you be more specific please? Where and when.

TomO - on 26 Sep 2012
The bolt to the right of new morning was certainly there nearly ten years ago. As above, it's on a GG route I think, but is some kind of anodised hanger which is why it stays shiny, non?
John2 - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to TomO: I've removed the bolt and hanger, but I couldn't get the sleeve out. It wasn't the type of bolt I was expecting - the hanger was a normal Petzl hanger, but the bolt head had a screwdriver slot rather than a hexagonal head and the bolt thread was only about half an inch long. I unscrewed the bolt half way and hit it with a hammer, but even using a 60 cm crowbar I was unable to lever the sleeve out of the rock. I suspect that the sleeve may be glued in.
MJ - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to John2:

Sounds like one of the old fashioned Petzl caving bolts which were drilled/hammered in by hand.
nickstephens - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:

I was asked about two bolts to the left of Friends on Pordenack. Just checked with the person and he confirmed that he saw two oval bolts, about 4-5m off the deck. To the left, on the wall by the overhang (sounds like Cain from what i know of that route). His description of the route he was climbing (Friends) seemed pretty consistent as well and he was using a rockfax guide with the pictures to aid in the process. I haven't checked myself but have changed my plans to be down that way at the weekend to confirm this, unless somebody else can confirm that they are or even better are not there.

Separately I was talking about another bolt/peg next to immaculate crack I think so I was going to go for a stroll that way at the weekend and see what I find.
Iain Peters - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to nickstephens:

Thanks Nick. Any feedback will be welcome. It may be that others already know about the ones you mention.

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