In reply to DemolitionRed: Yup !!!
my complaint has always been with a few of the home route/problem setters(in london) but in particular West Way.
At westway and a few other walls here in london there is a tendency for massive holds,massive reaches.Certainly there has been a moderation of this recently but if i do this form of climbing for to long i get very worn down in my shoulders that has bordered on injury at times and thats with stretching etc.People say,but it has to be hard for you to progress...sure but this style stops me progressing.
I see this style as a 'performance' style if its to tooo long a move with yet again with a shoulder destroying finish i back off...walk on by i go to indoor walls to train not 'perform',well most of the time.
In the last 4 months I have been training on what i found to be an exellent medium-the 55 degree board at the Biscuit factory(dismantled as a training board for now....its got some set probs but in my mind thats not training).
I spent the time making up problems IN THE STYLE I NEEDED,it slapped me around for 5-6 weeks but my body started to adapt.I am now feeling quite strong and the main point is the problems from always following a certain style have gone AND i feel stronger.
What I am saying here is that certain styles of route setting might look good and feel good-if you are into that style(competion style)but mostly i think do not work for 'training'.This style i think shold be in the minority for grades up to V6.
I would always challenge some route setters who have an elitist approach here...that is sometimes they will not seemingly understand that you can actually have steep climbing @6c to 7a+ that is more than just jugs essentially....I could go on and on.Not all of the above is present in the london gymns and I have seen similar as well so its noyt just london
Anyhow i have taken a holiday where i know the climbing is a little less brutal(rrg).Hopefully i will return 'rested' and ready for london again!!!
To demolitionred-Heres to your training...hope you find some receptive staff/like minded folk out there. There are here in london and this has helped me alot