/ The greatest crack routes in the eastern peak up to HVS

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beardy mike - on 01 Oct 2012
So, give me a list. It's time for my annual grit fest, and planning on taking a mate who needs to gen up on cracks. Give me your greatest crack lines up to HVS, maybe E1. Generally I'd have thought in the Curbar/Froggatt/Millstone area... Name, grade, and why...
Sankey - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann: Great Crack, Dukes quarry
thommi - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Sankey: hi Steve! Couldn't agree more! :-) made me smile that this was the first reply and it was you. Can remember spending ages on this with roobs dangling above, taking pics, giving encouragement and generally being rooms. Hope you are well. :-) Tom.
thommi - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to thommi: ps. To the op, plus stig of the dump was filmed there apparently.
Jon Stewart - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Outlook Crack HS 4b, Stanage Plantation.

Try it - you'll see why.
CurlyStevo - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:
you've prolly done all of these but anyway......

the file, a good test of jamming ability.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=74758

Hawks Nest Crack - Froggatt, simply awesome crack climbing with an exciting finish. Not really too much of an offwidth if you suss it out.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10901

Great North Road - superb corner crack climbing.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10774
CurlyStevo - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
for chimneys this is a goodun
Scarlets Chimney HS 4a (my arse ;) )
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9674
Hardonicus - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann: Chequers Crack of course.
andic - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Altar Crack, Rivelin VS 4c, Wonderful
In reply to mike kann:

There you go:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?sort=g&id=230

Get stuck into that lot!


Chris
Jimbo C - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

For a bit of wide action, try Bollard Crack (VS) and Silver Crack (HS) at Froggatt. Big gear is a good idea for the latter.

Plenty of awkward cracks at Curbar. Calver Wall, Inch Crack, Little Innominate and Birthday Crack all at VS.

An E1 suggestion - Strapiombo at Froggatt. A good test of roof crack climbing.
beardy mike - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Hardonicus: Sand bagging meany.
beardy mike - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Ah you're a genius - I was looking for sommit like that but couldn't find it!
gethin_allen on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Jimbo C:
bollard crack is not as hard as the eastern grit guidebook suggests, very nice really.
Bond street is fun. Nonsuch in rivelin gets HVS if you read the older guide.
ianstevens - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Jimbo C: I'd second the recommendation for bollard crack. Expect to loose some skin though!
Offwidth - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

That's a logbook problem.... Scarletts Chimney is top end HS 4b in the BMC and VS 4b in Rockfax EG. I do wonder how all those solid VS voters would get on with a tough VS chimney.. maybe it shows more about the average voters VS chimney technique than the grade of the route? It's also easier than infamous Monolith Crack on the Gribben Facet, Cwm Idwall.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29194
Offwidth - on 01 Oct 2012
victim of mathematics - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
>
> That's a logbook problem.... Scarletts Chimney is top end HS 4b in the BMC and VS 4b in Rockfax EG. I do wonder how all those solid VS voters would get on with a tough VS chimney.. maybe it shows more about the average voters VS chimney technique than the grade of the route? It's also easier than infamous Monolith Crack on the Gribben Facet, Cwm Idwall.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29194

Monolith Crack is technically straightforwards, it's just an emotional voyage thrashing your way into it and Scarlett's Chimney is certainly not VS!
Offwidth - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Which is harder though? I was thinking about the awkward wide offwidth middle section which I thought was harder than Scarletts albeit not so similar in style. I don't currently fit through the top bit so cant judge (except that the outside way is about HVS and easily bypassed by following the pleasant De Selincourt's variation out round the arete on the right).
NIGBEE on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Tricouni Crack at Ramshaw

Hedgehog Crack at Hen Cloud

The Crank at Ramshaw

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Jon Stewart - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to mike kann)
>
> There you go:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?sort=g&id=230
>
Desperation a jamming route? I kind of finger jam one move at the bottom (until I'm high enough for it to become a crimpy sidepull) and then after the hard, crimpy climbing it's a load of jugs. Odd choice!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

It isn't my list!


Chris
Mr. K - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: *checks logbook*

*understands*
Pekkie - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to NIGBEE:
> (In reply to mike kann)
>
> 'Hedgehog Crack at Hen Cloud'

Funny how different folks like different strokes, isn't it? Did this thirty years ago and swore I would never do it again. Starts with nice finger locks. Then widens to nice handjams. Then widens, and keeps widening... Ah well, whatever floats your boat...
>
>
Sankey - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to thommi: Happy Days! Hope all is good with you too.

Probably best to move on to another crag straight after Great Crack, somewhere mainstream like Leashaw Brow or Cocking Tor...
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to NIGBEE:

>Hedgehog Crack at Hen Cloud

I always used to think this must have been named because it had once been prickly. Then one day I noticed the hedgehog-shaped feature to the left of the crack. Unfortunately I've never been able to make it out again, so I'm none the wiser, really.

jcm
victim of mathematics - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to mike kann)
>
> Outlook Crack HS 4b, Stanage Plantation.
>
> Try it - you'll see why.

It's a VS 4c jamming crack (in the definitive guide and in the real world), it was hardly the world's biggest ever sandbag at HS though, was it?
victim of mathematics - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
>
> Which is harder though? I was thinking about the awkward wide offwidth middle section which I thought was harder than Scarletts albeit not so similar in style. I don't currently fit through the top bit so cant judge (except that the outside way is about HVS and easily bypassed by following the pleasant De Selincourt's variation out round the arete on the right).

Hmm, the awkward chimney bit on Monolith Crack that you're talking about felt like an awkward traditional Severe chimney (you known, the kind that doesn't need and couldn't helpfully be represented by a technical grade), whereas Scarlett's Chimney has an actual move or two of proper climbing. I'd say the grades are correct at Severe and HS 4b, but Monolith Crack is much harder in terms of the effort required to succeed!
deepsoup - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> It's a VS 4c jamming crack (in the definitive guide and in the real world), it was hardly the world's biggest ever sandbag at HS though, was it?

Its only small, but its a bit tougher than it looks. (It *looks* like HS.) Worthwhile, but definitely not one of the 'greatest'.

Maybe it would be a good warm up before wandering a bit further north to Count's Crack which is a really good burly VS with a couple of HVS variations you could do instead.
Dave Garnett - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> I always used to think this must have been named because it had once been prickly. Then one day I noticed the hedgehog-shaped feature to the left of the crack. Unfortunately I've never been able to make it out again, so I'm none the wiser, really.


Yes, I think the light has to be special, ideally provided by the Double Sunset or Halley's Comet.

Despite the comment above it's pretty easy though, isn't it? I'm pretty sure it was my first VS lead.
Offwidth - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Its funny how offwidth technique often doesn't get counted as a 'climbing move' in the UK and how 'E for effort' only works for Extreme routes ;-)

I'd say both are HS 4b and many people make Scarlett's harder as they forget to spot the key foothold (and doing so does result in a cruel struggle).
Offwidth - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Easy for a Hen Cloud VS maybe...would be top half as a Stanage starred VS these days.
GrahamD - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to NIGBEE:

Unfortunately neither Hen Cloud nor Ramshaw are Eastern Peak

I always think Tower Crack is a bit neglected given its easy accessibility and proximity to the honey pots.
GrahamD - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

My nomination is probably George. Quite a bit longer than the average gritstone crack !
Jon Stewart - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> [...]
>
> It's a VS 4c jamming crack (in the definitive guide and in the real world), it was hardly the world's biggest ever sandbag at HS though, was it?

Not the biggest sandbag in the world, no, but an amusing one I think. As Deepsoup says, it looks really innocuous but when you get on it it turns out to be be harder than The File! It's the kind of VS that many E1 leaders struggle with, so to those unused to jamming cracks it could feel about 3 grades out. I led it after someone who led HVS regularly failed.
deepsoup - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> when you get on it it turns out to be be harder than The File!

Ha ha. I hadn't thought about it like that, but I agree.

Stepping away from the grit for a moment, would it be unkind to recommend Minus Ten at Stoney?
victim of mathematics - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

It's not harder than The File! It's similar, just a lot shorter.
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)

> Yes, I think the light has to be special, ideally provided by the Double Sunset or Halley's Comet.

I think LSD might have a role to play.

> Despite the comment above it's pretty easy though, isn't it? I'm pretty sure it was my first VS lead.

Yeah, it's trivial, barely VS at all. But these people who can't climb cracks will have difficulty, of course.

jcm

CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth:
I don't know I could do scarletts without the key foothold! Definately harder than jonathans chimney IMO.
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Outlook Crack harder than the File?! You must have been off route.

jcm
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Al Evans on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
>
> That's a logbook problem.... Scarletts Chimney is top end HS 4b in the BMC and VS 4b in Rockfax EG. I do wonder how all those solid VS voters would get on with a tough VS chimney.. maybe it shows more about the average voters VS chimney technique than the grade of the route? It's also easier than infamous Monolith Crack on the Gribben Facet, Cwm Idwall.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29194

I used to work with a guy who used to go walking with Harry Scarlett, when I was little, so it was a major target for me, in fact he used to go walking with Benny Rothman too, he was obviously a communist but a great childhood hero of mine a member of the great Kinder Trespasses, in fact I have a picture of him, Harry Collett watching us on The Bat in Dovedale.
He is the guy stood at the bottom :-)
Al Evans on 02 Oct 2012
SC - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Looking good but what about Cornwall? I seem to remember there being loads of crack climbing at Bosigran & Chair Ladder.
metal arms on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to SC:
> (In reply to mike kann)
>
> Looking good but what about Cornwall? I seem to remember there being loads of crack climbing at Bosigran & Chair Ladder.

Might be a bit off topic since the OP is looking for eastern Peak recommendations!
Gordon Stainforth - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

For sheer quality, up to HVS, I can't think of anything better than The File. A lot of others mentioned here are quite small really.
SC - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to metal arms:
> (In reply to SC)
> [...]
>
> Might be a bit off topic since the OP is looking for eastern Peak recommendations!

I will be his victim on this trip! Main aim is to get lots of crack climbing.
Offwidth - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans:

Great stuff. Thanks
metal arms on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to SC:

Aha, I see. In that case he's right! As previously mentioned in the peak Millstone's cracking... Just get on the ones that look good and enjoy.
Jon Stewart - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics and JCM:

I'd say that on The File you can plonk your mits in anywhere and get perfect jams, but Outlook Crack is slightly more technical. I also remember it trying to trick me with duff sloping break that I expected to be good. But most of the apparent difficulty is actually just the discrepancy between how easy it looks and reality.

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