/ NEWS: Matty Hong repeats White noie, 8B+/C

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UKC News - on 01 Oct 2012
Matty Hong doing White noise, ~8B+/C, Wild Basin, CO, 4 kbMatty Hong has made the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods' White noise, ~8B+/C, at Wild Basin, Colorado.
According to Jamie Emerson who was there and caught the ascent on video, ...this long and strenuous problem, breaks down into a V14 [8B+] into a V10 [7C+].
Originally given 8C, Matty suggests it...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67477
gritstoner - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Finally, a formula! Too bad it's a rubbish one. A V12 into a V6 would become a V11? Don't think so Mister.
The Pylon King on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

White noie?

come on UKC sort out yer one finger/head prodder typing!
andyathome - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> White noie?
>
> come on UKC sort out yer one finger/head prodder typing!

I will have to admit that I bottled the pedant post of 'you ARE UKC - you could actually try to bloody spell YOUR own post titles correctly'. I even thought of starting a new thread so as not to appear to be denigrating Matty Hong's success.

So thank you. These are supposed to be professionals.....
The Pylon King on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to andyathome:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies)


well you know me, just couldn't stop meself ;)




Anyway, well done Matty.
stonemaster - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Son of the great Steve. Almost like cheating...:)
PeterJuggler - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to gritstoner:
The formula is only valid if |X-Y|<=4. I guess that if it doesn't match this condition then the grade is just the greater of the 2.
http://climbingczar.lt11.com/about-2/
I'm not saying that the formula can't be improved upon.
gritstoner - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to PeterJuggler:

Fair enough. I suppose if the difference is really big you might just call it highball Vx.
ads.ukclimbing.com
owensum - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

yer not so sure about a "formula" for assessing grades, and its hard to believe that adding a V10 to an existing V14 doesnt change the grade at all?!

Anyway Im not trying to stir a tedious grade debate. Actually I logged on to say that the original video of dan woods doing the line has been uploaded by dave graham et al. to island.io check it out!

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