/ Trad grades for sport routes???

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Elrond - on 01 Oct 2012
Was at the Shakemantle Slabs the other day and the guidebook was giving trad grades for bolted sport routes. Is this normal?? Why would a french grade not be given?

Cheers
Kevin Woods - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts: First question; no. I don't know anything about the crag but perhaps it has been bolted since the guidebook was published? Just a guess, though.
The Pylon King on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts:

You do sometimes get trad routes that have spaced bolts with or with out the odd peg or wire etc. Shakemantle fits this really, but i agree, a few of the routes are virtually sport routes.
Al Randall on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts: Rain Shadow and Eczma are the only two full "clip-ups" in the guide and as such I was told that it was thought that they would attract a disproportionate amount of attention compared to other routes and as such would stand out and be a bit of an anomaly. Personally I think that the grade should reflect what they both are and that is F6b/6b+ and not E2,5c but I do have a some sympathy for the stance taken by the CC guidebook committee. Other routes on the slab are either on spaced bolts or are only partially bolt protected so a trad grade may be more appropriate.

Al
GrahamD - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts:

The bolts have only recently been up graded - I think they might originally have had a very trad feel to them. Also, as pointed out above, most of the lines are not bolted in a way that needs to be approached with a very 'trad' head on
jkarran - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts:

> Was at the Shakemantle Slabs the other day and the guidebook was giving trad grades for bolted sport routes. Is this normal?? Why would a french grade not be given?

It's common enough where a few old bolted routes exist in a largely trad area (especially in older books) and quite useful where the bolting is less than ideal. From memory Shakemantle falls into both categories (or did 10 years ago).

jk
GrahamD - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to jkarran:

Bolts look nice and new now, but unfortunately the place was too wet and greasy when we called in a month or so back.
jkarran - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to GrahamD:

They were a rather uninspiring mix of 8mm spits, screws, nails and the odd peg when I last visited.

jk
Elrond - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to jkarran:

But now they all have nice shiny new bolts with hangers..

I don't really see how it could have a trad feel to it, the bolts aren't particularly run out or anything like that. Plus the guidebook we were using was the most current one.
BenTiffin - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts: I did the E1 5a on the right a year ago and it had new bolts then but certainly deserved the trad grade for the runnout to the first bolt although I was relieved to find a cheeky sideways rock 5 placement 1.5m below that first bolt - otherwise I would probably have cratered. After that though, it was more like sport climbing.

Ben

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