/ route to the top of mont blanc for a slab and crack fanatic
I am a rock climber who loves slabs and cracks who is at the top of his fitness level!
What objective to ascend Monte Blanc would suite me the most after an intro course?
Fave routes as training: Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall, Resurection, Foil, Great Wall and Super Direct.
Hueco: V1-V3 at the moment
Well, firstly you probably want to find a better-fitting helmet before you start thinking about Mont Blanc...
Head up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut instead - there is a decent guidebook in English by Michel Piola which gives loads of scope for crack & slab climbing. Then do Mont Blanc separately. The climbing above the hut is fantastic.
I'm on to you
obviously a fake / joke profile
mountain spirit has an optimistic approach to climbing progression.
Crack 1 D
Crack 2 D
... list all 2 climbs
John Harlin Route ED4
Rhapsody E11 7a
it is all about about route selection rather than grades!
Make your training specific to your goals and targets!
Training is key.
The Alps will be next year along with Rhapsody!
I can now do uk tech 5c/6a-6b!
Hopefully V8-V10 next year!
I train 3 times a week usually on traverses and do indoor sport climbing aswell!
Hopefully I will start leading - sport indoors - at F6a/F6a+!
Tedious joke account is tedious.
The photo is old!
I will change it soon!
no jokes i am real!
> Hopefully I will start leading - sport indoors - at F6a/F6a+!
Rhapsody next year it is then, doesn't look much harder than those blues on route 78 at the local wall.
If you need a belay for MB let me know.
I will do learn how to walk in crampons and I have done a winter skills course up in Aviemore with Glennmore Lodge!
I have fallen in love with The Central Pillar of Freney as I have read on Philipe Gattas acoount of it that is slabs, cracks and soft snow!
> Head up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut instead - there is a decent guidebook in English by Michel Piola which gives loads of scope for crack & slab climbing. Then do Mont Blanc separately. The climbing above the hut is fantastic.
The Envers des Aiguilles looks amazing!
Thanks for the heads up!
I wouuld love to do The Central Pillar of Freney!
It all depends on a variety of factors though!
It's said to be quite tricky... Try and get hold of Walter Bonatti's account of his descent from the Pillars of Freney, in his biography I think.
Best way up MB for you has to be Divine Providence.
At V3 you're not far off, just take a big pad.
I have his book and I read the account of it to get his Beta!
I have also asked a guide called James Thacker for his beta on it!
Stop picking on him and accusing him of being a joke profile. You'll all realise how wrong you are next year when the news story pops up:
'V. Diff climber falls off the first move of Rhapsody and dies of freak head trauma'...
Well that's one way to describe one of the most serious undertakings in the alps!!!!
It makes sobering reading, doesn't it? But if you've read that passage, what was it, half the team died IIRC, you must realise just how serious and hard this climb is and why some people replying to you on this thread find you are being... well, somewhat ambitious?
I just didn't put it on properly and it was my first time on real rock!
I wear it properly now!
Well I'm playin it by ear now!
Not sure about Rhapsody but I am more like an F7b climber than a V. Diff climber!
Yes Bruce it does.
That is why I will prepare very well for it and have been getting advice from people at Ellis Brigham and Kenton Cool!
It is not enough to say it is F7a or F6b+ on pitons but a pitch by pitch description much be done with grades for each pitch etc!
I have been doing indoor Ice Climbing sessions at Vertical Chills and will do a Scottish Winter and an Alpine Winter this jan/feb along with trad leading this nov or next may!
I want to be leading at F8a before I do it!
> It makes sobering reading, doesn't it? But if you've read that passage, what was it, half the team died IIRC, you must realise just how serious and hard this climb is and why some people replying to you on this thread find you are being... well, somewhat ambitious?
Well we will have to wait till next year and see how it goes!
Funny, I wondered at first if it was him :-)
I don't think he is though.
No I am not.
I am a mate of Johnny Dawes and many other top level climbers and mountaineers!
Hi Drunken monkey.
What do you mean by mind?
Insurance is a must for any climbing or mountaineering outdoors!
Is the BMC insurance anygood?
I have heard good staff about it!
> Hi Drunken monkey.
> What do you mean by mind?
It means be sure to... or more literally be mindful that...
Chiefly northern English/Scottish.
He has a good point, but good luck nonetheless.
please make some videos, I'm sure we could all learn a lot by your passionate approach and fast-track training regime.
I will see what I can do video wise!
I would love to make a video series!
You said in another thread that the highest grade you've climbed is F5+, being able to do some of the moves on a V3 boulder problem is not the same as leading F7a!
Elsewhere on the site
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more