/ route to the top of mont blanc for a slab and crack fanatic

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Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
Hi.

I am a rock climber who loves slabs and cracks who is at the top of his fitness level!

What objective to ascend Monte Blanc would suite me the most after an intro course?

Fave routes as training: Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall, Resurection, Foil, Great Wall and Super Direct.

Hueco: V1-V3 at the moment

Bye

Savvas
teh_mark - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Well, firstly you probably want to find a better-fitting helmet before you start thinking about Mont Blanc...
Chris Sansum - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Head up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut instead - there is a decent guidebook in English by Michel Piola which gives loads of scope for crack & slab climbing. Then do Mont Blanc separately. The climbing above the hut is fantastic.
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
obviously a fake / joke profile
Parrys_apprentice - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

mountain spirit has an optimistic approach to climbing progression.

Latest Climbs
Crack 1 D
Crack 2 D
... list all 2 climbs


Climbs Wishlist
John Harlin Route ED4
Rhapsody E11 7a

alooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: seems legit.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

it is all about about route selection rather than grades!

Make your training specific to your goals and targets!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice:

Hi P_A

Thanks.

Training is key.

The Alps will be next year along with Rhapsody!

I can now do uk tech 5c/6a-6b!

Hopefully V8-V10 next year!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Thanks.

I train 3 times a week usually on traverses and do indoor sport climbing aswell!

Hopefully I will start leading - sport indoors - at F6a/F6a+!

Bye

Kid Spatula - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Tedious joke account is tedious.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to teh_mark:

Hey.

The photo is old!

I will change it soon!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Kid Spatula:

no jokes i am real!
Al Randall on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Your training objectives are a waste of time. Get walking fit, especially in crampons, and learn how to move safely on a glacier. The "normal" routes are the Gouter and the 3 M's, the latter being a little more technical and interesting but still in essence a walk.

Al
alooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to alooker)
> Hopefully I will start leading - sport indoors - at F6a/F6a+!

Rhapsody next year it is then, doesn't look much harder than those blues on route 78 at the local wall.

If you need a belay for MB let me know.
drunken monkey - on 02 Oct 2012
Walloper Alert.
alooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to drunken monkey: hahaha!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Randall:

Hi.

I will do learn how to walk in crampons and I have done a winter skills course up in Aviemore with Glennmore Lodge!

I have fallen in love with The Central Pillar of Freney as I have read on Philipe Gattas acoount of it that is slabs, cracks and soft snow!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Sansum:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
>
> Head up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut instead - there is a decent guidebook in English by Michel Piola which gives loads of scope for crack & slab climbing. Then do Mont Blanc separately. The climbing above the hut is fantastic.

Hi Chris

The Envers des Aiguilles looks amazing!

Thanks for the heads up!

I wouuld love to do The Central Pillar of Freney!

It all depends on a variety of factors though!
Bruce Hooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I wouuld love to do The Central Pillar of Freney!

It's said to be quite tricky... Try and get hold of Walter Bonatti's account of his descent from the Pillars of Freney, in his biography I think.
torquil on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Best way up MB for you has to be Divine Providence.

At V3 you're not far off, just take a big pad.

Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Bruce Hooker:

Hi Bruce.

I have his book and I read the account of it to get his Beta!

I have also asked a guide called James Thacker for his beta on it!

Bye

sav
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to torquil:

Hey Torquil.

Just looked up Divine Providence and it looks amazing and spectacular!

I will definately consider it!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67314
teh_mark - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Stop picking on him and accusing him of being a joke profile. You'll all realise how wrong you are next year when the news story pops up:
'V. Diff climber falls off the first move of Rhapsody and dies of freak head trauma'...
alooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to teh_mark: you're the one who brought up his helmet
Goucho on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Al Randall)
>
I have fallen in love with The Central Pillar of Freney as I have read on Philipe Gattas acoount of it that is slabs, cracks and soft snow!

Well that's one way to describe one of the most serious undertakings in the alps!!!!



Bruce Hooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I have his book and I read the account of it to get his Beta!

It makes sobering reading, doesn't it? But if you've read that passage, what was it, half the team died IIRC, you must realise just how serious and hard this climb is and why some people replying to you on this thread find you are being... well, somewhat ambitious?
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:
Hi.

I just didn't put it on properly and it was my first time on real rock!

I wear it properly now!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to teh_mark:

Well I'm playin it by ear now!

Not sure about Rhapsody but I am more like an F7b climber than a V. Diff climber!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Bruce Hooker:

Yes Bruce it does.

That is why I will prepare very well for it and have been getting advice from people at Ellis Brigham and Kenton Cool!

It is not enough to say it is F7a or F6b+ on pitons but a pitch by pitch description much be done with grades for each pitch etc!

I have been doing indoor Ice Climbing sessions at Vertical Chills and will do a Scottish Winter and an Alpine Winter this jan/feb along with trad leading this nov or next may!

I want to be leading at F8a before I do it!

Bye

Savvas
ads.ukclimbing.com
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
>
> [...]
>
> It makes sobering reading, doesn't it? But if you've read that passage, what was it, half the team died IIRC, you must realise just how serious and hard this climb is and why some people replying to you on this thread find you are being... well, somewhat ambitious?

Well we will have to wait till next year and see how it goes!

drunken monkey - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Mind and get good insurance aye.
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: are you a friend of dj viper?
Bruce Hooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) are you a friend of dj viper?

Funny, I wondered at first if it was him :-)

I don't think he is though.

Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hi CS.

No I am not.

I am a mate of Johnny Dawes and many other top level climbers and mountaineers!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to drunken monkey:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) Mind and get good insurance aye.

Hi Drunken monkey.

What do you mean by mind?

Insurance is a must for any climbing or mountaineering outdoors!

Is the BMC insurance anygood?

I have heard good staff about it!

Bye
Tom Last - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to drunken monkey)
> [...]
>
> Hi Drunken monkey.
>
> What do you mean by mind?
>

It means be sure to... or more literally be mindful that...

Chiefly northern English/Scottish.

He has a good point, but good luck nonetheless.
Parrys_apprentice - on 03 Oct 2012
Dear Mountain Spirit,

please make some videos, I'm sure we could all learn a lot by your passionate approach and fast-track training regime.

Mountain Spirit - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice:
Hey P_A

I will see what I can do video wise!

I would love to make a video series!
Elrond - on 30 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Not sure about Rhapsody but I am more like an F7b climber than a V. Diff climber!

You said in another thread that the highest grade you've climbed is F5+, being able to do some of the moves on a V3 boulder problem is not the same as leading F7a!


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.