In reply to Rog Wilko:
Aplogies for the mini essay but as asked for, here is someone new’s experience.
I started indoors in February by booking a beginner’s course that came with a month’s free pass. I liked it, and found a bunch of people at a similar level to keep going regularly. The attraction was partly something active to do on dark winter evenings, but also the potential to get me out of London when the weather improved to the great outdoors I was sorely missing.
The kickstart came when I unexpectedly moved back up north in July. Here was an area with more rock in it! I’d been reading UKC since finding it online whilst googling my beginner’s course, so it’s been a pretty major influence on my getting into climbing. The collective advice on UKC is to join a club, so I found one near me with a friendly website and (with a bit of difficulty) plucked up the courage to go along. It didn’t occur to me to go and try sport climbing as I wasn’t even leading indoors yet.
When club members noticed that, they started me off on 4+s learning to clip and have a go. Because I wasn’t at the minimum level most walls require for learn to lead courses, I had assumed I had to “get better” before I could try leading. Instead, I found how different and awesome leading is and something clicked.
As well as meeting a pool of people to climb with at the wall, the main impact for me has been individuals who have taken me out trad climbing, not caring that I can’t yet climb very well, but wanting to develop my interest and enthusiasm and share their sport. This has obviously been a massive deal for me, opened up a new world, given me a crash course and improved my climbing along the way. I am very grateful to these people, who know who they are, and am aware that I am lucky to be getting an old school club-based apprenticeship in trad (including recently a day’s BMC-subsidised outdoor course run by the club).
The point really is that some younger people like me are turning up at clubs with enthusiasm, and are being deliberately and generously encouraged by experienced climbers. This is likely to make me want to do the same down the line, if I am in a position to do so. However, teaching novices has to come from intrinsic motivation – you can’t try and impose a sense of duty on something that requires as much patience and safety responsibility as teaching trad to someone who can’t use their feet!
Going back to the OP – I havn’t tried sport climbing at all yet, because it simply hasn’t come up. Climbing at the lower grades this is probably a good thing, because there is so much satisfaction to be had on the trad that I can do, that if I had tried sport that I simply couldn’t I may well have been put off!
Just a personal experience of a twenty something getting into climbing in 2012, which may be similar or different to others