UKC

An Old Huber Quote

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Michael Ryan 22 Jul 2003
In the light of Alex Hubers critical comments on the new 9b+/c in Spain. Here is more from Alex courtesy of Kurt The Canadian.

"The climber who did the first ascent never knows definitly which grade his creation has. So he has to make a suggestion. In my eyes this suggestion has to be respected until the climb is repeated the first time and then maybe graded differently. ...... So everybody should respect the ratings of Fred Nicole and myself ( and others ) up to the
moment that somebody gives a different suggestion of the rating after climbing the route. "

taken from

on the edge mag
n°53
dec ´95/ jan ´96
 TimB 22 Jul 2003
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

AHs second letter to Desnivel contained this paragraph:

"About ten years ago i said that everybody has the right to propose a certain grade for his first ascent and this proposal has to remain up to the moment when it gets confirmed or changed. Therefore i also accept Bernabe's proposal - i wouldn't rate it down. But on the other side, i cannot take this proposal seriously as I can't see any
references for such a high grade. Therefore i would be lying if would say that I believe in the correctness of Bernabe's proposal of the grade 9b+! "

Keep up Mick.
Kurt 23 Jul 2003
In reply to TimB:

I saw that paragraph from AH. Don't you find it vaguely self-contradictory?

Paraphrasing: "Ten years ago I said you have to accept the grade, so I accept the grade, but I would be lying if I said I accepted the grade."
 TimB 23 Jul 2003
In reply to Kurt:

I read it more as

"Everyone can propose a grade. I accept your proposal and laugh at it, as you have never done any confirmed 9bs. Ha ha."
Kurt 23 Jul 2003
In reply to TimB:

*smirk*
OP Michael Ryan 23 Jul 2003
In reply to Kurt:

Or even..."I may propose a grade for my new cutting edge route and you should accept it. But if someone proposes a grade for their cutting edge route treat it with suspicion."

Of course that is totally unfair as everyone has the liberty to change their mind, especially when it is to their advantage.

Mick
 anonymouse 23 Jul 2003
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
It sounds like a simple appeal to common sense. I can see, Mick, why you might be having difficulties with that.
OP Michael Ryan 23 Jul 2003
In reply to anonymouse:

I actually sympathise with Huber. Glad he's changed his tune.

All cutting edge ascents, whoever does them, should be viewed with doubt unless there is independent confirmation of both the ascent and its difficulty.

Of course some people have more creditibilty than others.

M
ian h 23 Jul 2003
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
only one person knows how hard it really is. but it does seem a bit crazy to leap forward in grades to 9b+ before 9b or even 9a+ has really been established. seems that allot of people doubt this ascent and others like Rouling/akira. at the end of the day how often do people advance beyond there previous best performance at a rapid rate jumping grades on the way.

it just dont happen especially at this high level where people are actually pushing what is humanly possible.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...