/ NEWS: Beyond Good and Evil - Great Conditions in the Alps

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UKC News - on 08 Oct 2012
Matt Helliker on the final pitch. "Thin ice and loose blocks" , 4 kbBritish alpinists Matt Helliker and Andy Perkins have made the autumn season's
first ascent of Beyond Good and Evil on the north face of the Pelerins above
Chamonix. They found excellent conditions on a route which probably hasn't formed properly for at least five years.

"Conditions are...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67490
Mr. K - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Wow, that looks thin! Impressive stuff. Bo)
Damo on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mr. K:

Nice work. Maybe someone should go around and have a look at Coracrazion?
jon on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Damo:

Do you mean the Sylvester/Charlton route on Gruvetta? Has it ever been repeated?
Damo on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:

Yes. Not that I know of, fwtw.
Will Sim - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Good work boys! looks like quality route and a smooth ascent.

Not sure i see the similarities to 17 days strapped to Cerro Kishtwar though!

Will
jazzyjackson on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:
holy shit, that's a good tick! Exciting ; )
jon on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Damo:

John and Mark were very discreet, doing phenomenal things and not telling a soul, so it wouldn't surprise me if locals had never heard about it, let alone repeated it!
Epsilon - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome to see a rare repeat of the full line. Twight is right to criticize teams that claim a tick of a named technical route while avoiding the crux pitches.
Andy Perkins - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Will Sim:
> (In reply to UKC News) Good work boys! looks like quality route and a smooth ascent.
>
> Not sure i see the similarities to 17 days strapped to Cerro Kishtwar though!
>
> Will

Just in the style of the climbing and the quality of the ice, Will.
Definitely not the same speed (some days on CK we just did 1 pitch).
And not the same level of suffering. I've grown out of that ;-)
RobNZ - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Looks like a lot of fun and good gear! Just out of interest as I want to get better at grading stuff what grade is that route?
alexhwarang - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Then next day, the greek zulu boy sent it free as well.
ads.ukclimbing.com
CurlyStevo - on 11 Oct 2012

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