/ VIDEO: Pete Whittaker 1st ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6c, Burbage South

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UKC Videos - on 10 Oct 2012
[Pete Whittaker on the first ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6c, Burbage South]Pete Whittaker has started this winter's grit season off early with an ascent of the back wall of one of the Burbage South quarries. Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6c, still suffered a little from seepage though and he needed to use towels to stop the wet streaks. This will probably mean that repeats need to either be soon or not at all since it is hardly likely to get drier in this dankest of quarries.

Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1307
dale1968 - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: great climbing, but the sheep at the end was quality!
Doghouse - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to dale1968:

And the heather pulling.. .. good to know I'm not the only one :-) (but generally on VDiffs!)
The Pylon King on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:

Bloody music!
Mark Bull - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to dale1968:

> the sheep at the end was quality!

That's not a sheep, it's an undercover ethics policeman unable to disguise their disapproval of the pre-placed towels....

In reply to UKC Videos:

Sorry but that looks like a right pile of crap!


Chris
Enty - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:

Looks prime for a direct finish.

E
CurlyStevo - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Enty:
Aye I was thinking the same, doesn't look like 'the' line on that bit of rock.
cyberpunk - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: why was the foam pad and towel taped to the wall.
Dave Warburton - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Looks can be deceiving... it might climb beautifully.
JimboWizbo - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: Great climbing.

Genuine question here, not having a go or trying to kick off an argument, would the route get a higher grade without pads?
jon on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:

Burbag?
In reply to jon:

Character limit on thread titles - trying to sort.

Alan
jon on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Tell Pete to make his route names shorter!
Chris the Tall - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:
That sheep looks genuinely interested in the route, think he fancied a crack at it himself

But FFS Pete, don't turn your back on him - all he had to do was nudge you in the back on the knees as you shout safe - crafty buggers these sheep, particularly when you've just nicked one of his lines.
john arran - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:
> Tell Pete to make his route names shorter!

Psychotic Pigeon?
jon on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to john arran:

Psychosomatic Pig?
Chris the Tall - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:
> (In reply to UKC Videos) Great climbing.
>
> Genuine question here, not having a go or trying to kick off an argument, would the route get a higher grade without pads?

Yes, as it would be more dangerous. Bit pointless though.
john arran - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris the Tall:

> crafty buggers these sheep, particularly when you've just nicked one of his lines.

Doubt he would have been interested in leading it anyway. Prefers to follow.

Chris the Tall - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to cyberpunk:
> (In reply to UKC Videos) why was the foam pad and towel taped to the wall.

Good to see beer towels making a long-awaited return to climbing. Presume it was to stop seepage dripping down on to lower holds
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In reply to Dave Warburton:

It might, I'll never know! It looks crap is all I was saying; devious damp, dingy and with a grotty exit. As other have said, the 'true' line looks further right.


Chris
carl dawson - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:

Name too long? Doesn't matter, all the young things'll just call it Pigeon.

Carl
spamo on 10 Oct 2012

In reply to UKC Videos:

Did look very damp/grotty but was really cool to watch. My friends and I walked past just as Pete had finished cleaning the route so stopped to watch.

Have to say I was glad when he got his gear in. Although he was climbing the route so smoothly it looked like it was all in the bag before he had started.

My friend got to help with some of the filming whilst the other camera man went down to as a spotter... pretty cool!

Christheclimber - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> (In reply to cyberpunk)
> [...]
>
> Good to see beer towels making a long-awaited return to climbing.

Yes but back in the day they were used as "bouldering mats"
nigel pearson - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: Nice climbing and great name.
i.fish2000 - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Enty: I saw this live, it was amazing, and you don't get a sense of how high that first bit of pro is on the video! The direct looks like it could be done but if you went direct there would be big moves with no gear! I'm sure someone will try it one day though!

Awesome climb though... Nice one Pete!
John Stainforth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to carl dawson:

The sheep looks puzzled, so you could just called it Puzzled.
Enty - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to simonfish2000:
> (In reply to Enty) I saw this live, it was amazing, and you don't get a sense of how high that first bit of pro is on the video! The direct looks like it could be done but if you went direct there would be big moves with no gear! I'm sure someone will try it one day though!
>
> Awesome climb though... Nice one Pete!

Yeah it looks good - I was in no way slagging the climb like Craggsy. So there's an E9 there for the taking then? I might book a flight ;-)

E
Ramblin dave - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Dave Warburton)
>
> It might, I'll never know! It looks crap is all I was saying; devious damp, dingy and with a grotty exit.

Bear in mind that this is the man who did the FA of Gobbler's Roof at Harborough...
In reply to Enty:
>
>
> Yeah it looks good - I was in no way slagging the climb like Craggsy. So there's an E9 there for the taking then? I might book a flight ;-)
>
> E

Actually the bottom wall looks excellent, I only saw the upper 1/4 1st time through! :-(



Chris
Ed Booth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: Anybody know (Pete) what its like to set a rope up on this route. Also same question for a route that Pete did in the same quarry??(Gigantic e7/8??)

The one in this vid looks distincly blank for anchors or features above...

Cheers Ed
TomPR - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Ed Booth: You have to use your own stakes at the top I'm afraid.

Gigantic is in the Wilton Quarries...


Ed Booth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to TomPR: Yeh thought Gigantic was the wrong one. Did Pete not do another in the burbage quarry up a wall with just some gear top half...?
nathanlee - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Ed Booth:

keep on giving? inspiration dedication? yeh stakes needed.
Ed Booth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to nathanlee: Yeh inspiration dedication was the one i meant.
Calder - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to dale1968)
>
> [...]
>
> That's not a sheep, it's an undercover ethics policeman unable to disguise their disapproval of the pre-placed towels....

Maybe guru Matt Smythe of Gresham Masterclass fame has been reborn?
i.fish2000 - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Ed Booth: Pete was working the route off 2 stakes hit into the ground ~5m away from the top out (over a footpath) as you can see in the vid, its very chossy/ green at the top!
Dan Arkle - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to john arran:

> Doubt he would have been interested in leading it anyway. Prefers to follow.

Very good, appreciated!

I love the grit but this route makes me want to climb some limestone

Mr. K - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: Great vid, thought the music worked really well and the sheep at the end was comedy genius!
mikekeswick - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle: Agreed.
Obviously a very good climber but surely there must be a nicer line still awaiting an ascent somewhere else??? This doesn't look particulaly inspiring....
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Ally Smith on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Ed Booth:

Ed, not sure if they're still there, but when i tried French Kiss a few (8?) years ago there were two very rusty, and very well hidden stakes in the heather a fair way back. There's also another above my route on the back wall.
Jamie B - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:

Looks like a good bit of climbing to me, even if the line and setting is not the most aesthetic. Good effort Pete.
Jamie B - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:

> Genuine question here, not having a go or trying to kick off an argument, would the route get a higher grade without pads?

The mats are pretty academic by the time he reaches the gear!

deepsoup - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
That's Pete's mum belaying in the vid isn't it? I imagine it must have been a bit nerve-wracking for her.
Michael Gordon - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to deepsoup:

I imagine she must be used to it by now. If she can handle belaying on Dynamics of Change she can handle anything!
fattybiscuits - on 12 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos:

Nicely done, but is that a bolt for the last bit of pro? the quickdraw hangs off it like a a bolt plate not a peg...
paul mitchell - on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Videos: The final clip was a peg I put in to hold the rope in a bit ,as the top juts out and makes working the route to the left much harder.

I top roped both these lines about 20 years ago,but they were either too wet to get the lead,or I hesitated too much.

The other issue was whether or not to use mats.

Both these routes are usually out of condition,especially the right hand one.

Good effort by Pete;he gets his finger out.
The matless challenge obviously remains.

Mitch

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