/ VIDEO: Pete Whittaker 1st ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6c, Burbage South
Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1307
And the heather pulling.. .. good to know I'm not the only one :-) (but generally on VDiffs!)
That's not a sheep, it's an undercover ethics policeman unable to disguise their disapproval of the pre-placed towels....
Sorry but that looks like a right pile of crap!
Looks prime for a direct finish.
Aye I was thinking the same, doesn't look like 'the' line on that bit of rock.
Genuine question here, not having a go or trying to kick off an argument, would the route get a higher grade without pads?
Character limit on thread titles - trying to sort.
Tell Pete to make his route names shorter!
That sheep looks genuinely interested in the route, think he fancied a crack at it himself
But FFS Pete, don't turn your back on him - all he had to do was nudge you in the back on the knees as you shout safe - crafty buggers these sheep, particularly when you've just nicked one of his lines.
> Genuine question here, not having a go or trying to kick off an argument, would the route get a higher grade without pads?
Yes, as it would be more dangerous. Bit pointless though.
Doubt he would have been interested in leading it anyway. Prefers to follow.
Good to see beer towels making a long-awaited return to climbing. Presume it was to stop seepage dripping down on to lower holds
It might, I'll never know! It looks crap is all I was saying; devious damp, dingy and with a grotty exit. As other have said, the 'true' line looks further right.
Name too long? Doesn't matter, all the young things'll just call it Pigeon.
In reply to UKC Videos:
Did look very damp/grotty but was really cool to watch. My friends and I walked past just as Pete had finished cleaning the route so stopped to watch.
Have to say I was glad when he got his gear in. Although he was climbing the route so smoothly it looked like it was all in the bag before he had started.
My friend got to help with some of the filming whilst the other camera man went down to as a spotter... pretty cool!
> Good to see beer towels making a long-awaited return to climbing.
Yes but back in the day they were used as "bouldering mats"
Awesome climb though... Nice one Pete!
The sheep looks puzzled, so you could just called it Puzzled.
> Awesome climb though... Nice one Pete!
Yeah it looks good - I was in no way slagging the climb like Craggsy. So there's an E9 there for the taking then? I might book a flight ;-)
> It might, I'll never know! It looks crap is all I was saying; devious damp, dingy and with a grotty exit.
Bear in mind that this is the man who did the FA of Gobbler's Roof at Harborough...
> Yeah it looks good - I was in no way slagging the climb like Craggsy. So there's an E9 there for the taking then? I might book a flight ;-)
Actually the bottom wall looks excellent, I only saw the upper 1/4 1st time through! :-(
The one in this vid looks distincly blank for anchors or features above...
Gigantic is in the Wilton Quarries...
keep on giving? inspiration dedication? yeh stakes needed.
> That's not a sheep, it's an undercover ethics policeman unable to disguise their disapproval of the pre-placed towels....
Maybe guru Matt Smythe of Gresham Masterclass fame has been reborn?
Very good, appreciated!
I love the grit but this route makes me want to climb some limestone
Obviously a very good climber but surely there must be a nicer line still awaiting an ascent somewhere else??? This doesn't look particulaly inspiring....
Ed, not sure if they're still there, but when i tried French Kiss a few (8?) years ago there were two very rusty, and very well hidden stakes in the heather a fair way back. There's also another above my route on the back wall.
Looks like a good bit of climbing to me, even if the line and setting is not the most aesthetic. Good effort Pete.
The mats are pretty academic by the time he reaches the gear!
That's Pete's mum belaying in the vid isn't it? I imagine it must have been a bit nerve-wracking for her.
I imagine she must be used to it by now. If she can handle belaying on Dynamics of Change she can handle anything!
Nicely done, but is that a bolt for the last bit of pro? the quickdraw hangs off it like a a bolt plate not a peg...
I top roped both these lines about 20 years ago,but they were either too wet to get the lead,or I hesitated too much.
The other issue was whether or not to use mats.
Both these routes are usually out of condition,especially the right hand one.
Good effort by Pete;he gets his finger out.
The matless challenge obviously remains.
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