UKC

Assuming they strip Heckmair et al. of their first ascent, who do they give it to?

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Blimey was Al on the 1st ascent? I knew he was old but

In reply to Hat Dude: Are you being facetious, or do you really have no knowledge of the basics of Latin?

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Have I missed something? Why would they strip Heckmair and pals of their ascent?

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Me rediculus

In reply to PebblePusher: they were on drugs

In reply to Rory Shaw:

Thats quite a lot of grit hardball routes that wont count then

In reply to blanchie14c: I'm sure there are plenty in llanberis slate quarries as well! That could be a whole new thread - hardest ascents under the influence

In reply to CorneliusVS:

I haven't got a copy of the alpine climbing rule book from 1938, which rules did the break.

In reply to The New NickB: who are 'they' anyway? Who gives a f*ck anyhow, we all know which team did it first and to be honest you'd need to be on drugs to get on the wall with that gear!

In reply to CorneliusVS: Where did this come from? Why would they strip Heckmair et al of the first ascent?

In reply to Al Evans:


I presume the thread is re Lance Armstrong.

In reply to Al Evans: yes i think its tongue in cheek with ref to lance armstrong

In reply to blanchie14c:

Yes, it is idiotic. A reference to Armstrong the Cheat, but still idiotic.

In reply to Rory Shaw:

What drugs were they on, Heckmair and the others?

In reply to Coel Hellier: Ahh I see
So 'they' are gonna say no body won those races. Do 'they' think the public a idiots? Obviously! We all know who won and even if he was erased from memory the guys who came second won. You can't say no body won, its just daft

In reply to CorneliusVS:

There are no rules about using drugs for climbing, you can do as you will. Personally I'd say climbing under the influence is risky but it could be because I don't know how to use drugs - chewing coca leaves seems to help Bolivian Indians at altitude, might be worth a try.

In reply to blanchie14c: I guess in that case they could strip Hilary and Tensing for the first ascent of everest because they used bottled oxygen.

In reply to Sir Stefan:


Yeah anyone know what drugs as i don't remember reading about it in The White Spider?

In reply to Sebastian Fontleroy:Yeah but you don't read much there about Harrer having the hots for <<Godwin Filter>> either, do you?!

In reply to Sir Stefan:

Powerful liquid painkiller (administered after an accident)... one of them drank the rest of the bottle because they were so thirsty. The instructions were for a few drops in case of extreme pain.

Or something like that.

In reply to Bellie: In a programme on bbc4, 'Eiger:Wall Of Death'(?) I believe they claimed it was strong amphetamine. I don't think it was anything illegal, not that it matters anyway.

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

No, You don't. You've obviously read more on the matter than me. Any suggested reading?

In reply to CorneliusVS: eems like a lot of Reaburns winter ascents (green gully, NE Butress etc.) done when moderately wrecked on coca leaves. Guess they should be struck out of the record books then.

In reply to Rob Exile Ward: Actually, I don't like this thread much. Equating Heckmair with Armstrong is just cr*p.

The OP hasn't much of a sense of humour either.

In reply to NEClimber:
Just realised Im sat next to my copy of The White Spider :
'Just then a little phial of heart drops came to hand in the first aid bag. That devoted woman Dr Belart of Grindelwald had made me take it along in case of emergency, remarking :"If Toni Kurz had only had them along, he might even have survived his ordeal".
We were only supposed to use them in the direst need though.
On the bottle it said "ten drops". I simply poured half of it into Wiggerls mouth and drank the rest, as I happened to be thirsty. We followed it up with a couple of glucose lozenges, and were soon in proper order again."
The White Spider, Heinrich Harrer (1995) P120
Brilliant story and if not for the drugs it may never have been told.

In reply to Rob Exile Ward: Have to agree. No comparison!

In reply to CorneliusVS:

I've no knowledge, where is the error?

In reply to NEClimber:

Heart drops:- Liquid Amphetamine

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:


I took the OP as tounge-in-cheek.

Hermann Buhl's ascent of Nanga Parbat was another notable FA assisted by substances that you couldn't use in a cycle race.

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Well I laughed anyway, all the LA threads are getting repetitive

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Then it's just as well that climbing is not an organised competitive sport like cycling, athletics, football, etc.

In reply to JamButty:

Me too. Full marks to the OP.

In reply to butteredfrog:

So really they pre-dated Steck's speed accent many some considerable years

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Those caffeine capsules people sometimes use to stay awake on big summit pushes would probably also get you banned. In fact, come to think of it, the amount of coffee I drank to fuel my last bouldering session......

In reply to blanchie14c:

That's just the fact that he's foreign; nothing to do with drugs.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

And I'm fairly sure that Maurice Herzog used amphetamines on Annapurna.

In reply to Robert Durran: 'speed' accent, amphetamine/speed

In reply to blanchie14c:

speed ascent/foreign accent......never mind....

In reply to Robert Durran:
Ah haa! double word play

In reply to blanchie14c:

Puns are like that - you wait for ages and then two come along at once....

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Wouldn't they have to strip hundreds, if not thousands of climbers after claiming 1st accents fuelled whilst still full of alcohol after a night in the pub???

In reply to Dave Perry:

thats the beauty of climbing, completely unregulated and nobody can take anything away from any of us :-D

In reply to blanchie14c:
exactly!! It can't be done.

In reply to Al Evans:

Blimey, Al, adding oxygen to the list of banned substances in sport is a bit harsh !

In reply to GrahamD: It was, sort of, a joke.

In reply to butteredfrog:

You're not suggesting this guy has just come down from a Speed binge are you? Doesn't look that way at all!
http://wspinanie.pl/serwis/200902/20eiger4_heckmair.jpg

In reply to CorneliusVS:

Guess they'll have to strip Jim Perrin of his Coronation Street solo too.

In reply to Chris Sansum:

And is Amanita Muscarina cancelled completely?