/ CHALK!

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lardarse - on 12 Oct 2012
How many of you South Southern B****** do it! for ice training ?
lardarse - on 12 Oct 2012
In reply to lardarse: or soft southern chaps even !! LOL
Big Lee - on 13 Oct 2012
In reply to lardarse:

I've posted a fair amount on chalk climbing on my blog. Filtered posts here:

http://leeharrisonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Chalk%20climbing

Yes, it is very good for winter training. Nothing soft about it though.
Al Evans on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to lardarse: Don't know if it's useful but you can download this from the CC
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/chalk.pdf
Rick Ashton - on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to lardarse: I do it, and it's great training.
cmaradcliffe - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Rick Ashton: What's it like for protection, etc?

I saw photos on BigLee's blog and it is bolted/pegs but thought I had read somewhere you should only top rope/solo as they aren't solid?
Hannes on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to cmaradcliffe:
> I saw photos on BigLee's blog and it is bolted/pegs but thought I had read somewhere you should only top rope/solo as they aren't solid?

That depends on where on the coast you are
Big Lee - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to cmaradcliffe:
> (In reply to Rick Ashton) What's it like for protection, etc?
>
> I saw photos on BigLee's blog and it is bolted/pegs but thought I had read somewhere you should only top rope/solo as they aren't solid?

You're getting mixed up with Southern Sandstone, which can only be top-roped/solo'ed. There is excellent low level traversing at Saltdean if you are flying solo though.

The routes at Saltdean and Newhaven have a range of in-situ protection ranging from commercial SS bolts, home-made bolts, warthogs, even some bulldogs. There are lower-offs that can be top-roped. You can't access the top ropes without someone leading in the first place though.

The likes of Dover and other venues are trad style so you need a rack of warthogs and a lump hammer.
frqnt - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Big Lee:
> (In reply to cmaradcliffe)
> [...]
>
> There is excellent low level traversing at Saltdean if you are flying solo though.

Enough to warrant a trip down from London, in the absence of a partner?
cmaradcliffe - on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to Big Lee: Sounds very interesting, will have to give it a try!

What's it like with weather - like sandstone, should it be avoided after rain?
iksander on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to frqnt: I would say so, there's a few hundred metres of traversing to do. Tip: cough loudly before approaching the little tunnel cave to the left of the sewage plant...
Rick Ashton - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to iksander: why what happens in there? I often see lots of male couples heading in that direction???????
Big Lee - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to frqnt:

Definitely enough traversing to warrant a trip. I actually find the traversing better strength training, although going upwards is more fun.

Another tip: There is some good traversing on the Eastern side but the tide moves in very quickly in the Seaward Face area. Make sure you are West of this section when the water reaches 50m from the cliff as the sea quickly pools and fills up. We got caught out last winter and had to wade back though thigh deep water.

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