UKC

Justifiably Hyped Rock Climbing Areas

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 Robert Durran 13 Oct 2012
Areas that totally lived up to the hype (and why).

For starters:

Kalymnos - does anywhere else have such a high concentration of superb sports climbs?

Indian Creek - Crack climbing heaven.

wadi Rum - Indescribably amazing desert adventures.

Pembroke - Must surely have the best concentration of high quality pitches in the UK.





 mark20 13 Oct 2012
Stanage - something for everyone
 Enty 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

El Cap.

E
 Neil Adams 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: Pabbay and Mingulay. Some of the best climbing I've ever done anywhere, with the bonus of being on a beautiful otherwise-uninhabited island for a week with your mates
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

City of Rock, Devil's Tower, Tuolomne, Handegg, Nissedal, Lofoten, Kalymnos.

Why? Cos they just do!


Chris
 Jamie B 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

110% agree about Pembroke. It took me 15 years of climbing and listening to it's praises sung to get around to going. I was terrified that it wouldn't live up, but it exceeded. I want to live there.
 Dave Ferguson 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:
Agree with Pabbay and Mingulay, best sea cliff climbing in Britain and with Gogarth and Pembroke to live up to its gotta be very good.

For a mountain crag I'ld go for Craig yr Ysfa - not done a bad route on it.
 Greenbanks 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Tryfan East Face - 'responsible' for introducing generations to a love for the sport. And still an enchanting, accessible place to be. Adventure ground for youngsters and those at the end of it all...brilliant!
 Sam Mayfield 13 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Rich says sharpnose

I say Hoy

Both agree Gogarth! :0)

Sam
 Graham 14 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
Arapiles - f*cking awesome! trad of all sorts, cheap living.
Squamish - amazing granite
 hoodmonkey 14 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Font. Still the greatest bouldering in the world
 TMM 14 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Lundy. A week in the right weather is just magical. Everything I want from a climbing destination. A setting that takes you out of the norm, inspirational lines and some diversions away from climbing if you want a rest day.
 LakesWinter 14 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
Pembroke did for me, I can't wait to go back, a week this year was not long enough. There's variety, quality and adventure in whatever mix you fancy.
pasbury 15 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Lets hear it for the brilliant mountain crags of Snowdonia & the Lakes:

Cloggy, Scafell East Butress, Cromlech, Gimmer, Pillar, Esk, Scafell Crag, the Mot, Tryfan etc.

Superb routes, superb rock (usually), great outlook and history in spades.
pasbury 15 Oct 2012
In reply to pasbury:

I'd like to big up the Scottish mountain crags too but my experience of them is woefully lacking so I'll leave that to someone else.
 seankenny 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Buoux - cool formations, great setting, French cakes.

Tuolomne - just sprinkled with angel dust this place.

Curbar - well, perhaps not that hyped, because the first rule of Fight Club is...
dyfed 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Font. It has to be Font.
 Cake 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
Erm... Stoney Middleton.
jolivague 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Font, for the endless surprises in new areas and being alone in the forest at the crack of dawn, favourite place on earth.
 Ava Adore 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

FontFontFontFont Font
 ripper 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: Mother Carey's Kitchen (Pembroke)
Baggy Point
Gogarth
Dolomites
 ripper 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: Millstone
Bosi.... Pure heaven
In reply to Robert Durran: In my limited experience of climbing destinations, the ones I feel are justifiably hyped include:

Pabbay & Mingulay; absolutely amazing! Beautiful islands with some of the best climbing I have ever done, on perfect clean rock. And you get to be there with just your mates!

Ceuse; Brilliant sport climbing, with a more memorable feel than your average sport crag.

Arapiles; Brilliant varied climbing on solid rock with bomber wires. Add in to the mix great weather and the proximity of the Grampians and you have a recipe for greatness!

Pembroke; not done masses here, but I think I've sampled enough to see the quality and I've not even climbed any of the real classics, the Leap itself makes it one of the best destinations I've been to without adding in Mother Carey's Rusty Walls, etc.

Gogarth; A little bit of every trad style and bucket loads of adventure just minutes from your car!

Personally not sure whether Squamish is overhyped or not... it was really great don't get me wrong but after a month I was ready to leave, whereas I was in Arapiles for 3 months before I was ready to go.

Just my tuppence worth. Dunc
 Jonny2vests 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Zion. Underhyped if anything. Like Red Rocks for grown-ups.
Sharpnose. Overgraded mindless jug pulling on a BONKERS bit of rock.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Portland because it has great routes, atmospheric scenery and you can do a day trip from London. And the weather is very reliable.
 birdie num num 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
Well come on folks, Tremadoc. Faces South West, all year round venue, lazy walk in, cafe, pubs, shopping, camping, b&b, steam trains, sea views. And some good routes.
 Misha 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
Lundy and Gogarth.
To be fair, haven't been to some of the others that have been mentioned.
 handjammer 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: I can't believe that the mighty Almscliff hasn't had a mention yet- great routes, awesome bouldering, cracking views.

Froggatt too, although it's been some time since I was last there.

I know there aren't many routes there, but I'll never forget the sea cliffs at Toix, an utterly incredible place. My most memorable day's climbing ever!
 don macb 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

winter on the ben! enough said...
 Alun 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

Another vote for Fontainebleau. The only problem with it is that it is just so good, that it makes bouldering anywhere else a bit disappointing.

I've been bouldering in several other places in Europe (e.g Targassone) and the States (Joshua Tree) but neither came close to the endless playground of Font.

Although from what I've seen, Bishop looks pretty awesome.
 Stone Muppet 23 Oct 2012
Cromlech

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