/ Guidebooks for the Burgandy Region

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gdnknf on 14 Oct 2012
Does anyone know of climbing guidebooks for the Burgandy region of France? I've found the Jingowobbly guide online but it seems to be out of stock most places.
ian Ll-J - on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to gdnknf: I used the Jingo Wobbly guide..got it 2nd hand on here. I thought it was good though local climbers at the crag seemed to hate it for all sorts of reasons, including inaccurate route names and grades.
jon on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:
> local climbers at the crag seemed to hate it for all sorts of reasons, including inaccurate route names and grades.

Which is usually a smokescreen for bringing hordes of strangers to 'their' crags!

Bruce Hooker - on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

I was at the Saussois once with the Jingo Wobbly guide in hand looking for a climb I'd done years before but which wasn't in the book. I asked a pair of climbers and one made a derogatory remark about the book but was "corrected" by his partner who turned out to be the more experienced of the two showing the other the ropes... He said something about "it was all right now, things had been sorted out". Apparently the accusation was that by buying the Jingo Wobbly guide you were taking money away from the local guide "sheet" manufacturers - difficult to call the roneoed sheets tacked together a "book" - which went towards paying for the bolts but now some kind of agreement had been worked out between local associations and Jingo Wobbly to cover the issue.

I've used the book a bit and it's fine for someone who wants to visit the area as it covers many crags - I used it most at Vieux Chateau, one of the rare granite crags - but is not as complete as the best of the local books, if you can find them. They had it at the Vieux Campeur in Paris along with a few of the local productions when they are reprinted. The Saussois and Rochers du Parc was available there last time I went.
Monk - on 14 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to ian Ll-J)
> [...]
>
> Which is usually a smokescreen for bringing hordes of strangers to 'their' crags!

To be fair, I was cursing the Jingo Wobbly guide when I was using it and so were some dutch guys at the crag too, and none of us were local. It works well enough but it does leave a little to be desired and some of the grades were a bit interesting.

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