/ Antagonist Weights / or Stretching - Which is better?
On other days I might run & use weights apparatus for antagonists, e.g all the 'pushing' exercises like shoulder press etc.
My question for all the training gurus out there is:
Which is more beneficial for injury prevention/muscle balance, the stretching or weights, or are they both equally valid activities on non-climbing days?
I do some stretching but its mostly t-spine stuff and some hips. The way i use my kettlebells sorts out shoulder stability and mobility better than anything else ive ever known.
Do both, it doesn't take that long!
Do some stretching but the antagonists are key. Key thing to understand is that climbing flexibility is primarily active rather than passive. That is, you use your muscles to put a limb in a certain position. If those muscles are weak you wont get it there. Being able use your hands to tug yourself into weird and wonderful shapes ain't much use when you're using them to cling on!
mmmm, i think the type of yoga/stretching i would recommend over weights would be quite intensive/power yoga and lots. try baron baptiste/shiva rea (her more dynamic ones) don't go for the basic joss/celebrity crap. breathing with the flow while developing core strength and defined balance as opposed to pumping up with reps works for me...don't knock it 'til
you've tried it :)
Thanks for the interesting feedback. The reason I asked is primarily because it's easier for me to do stretching/yoga (definately the more powerful type) than gain access to weights. Both seem to be of some benefit as my range of movement (especially tendon range) gets decreased by training hard. In the past antagonist work has proved useful for injury prevention though.
Sorry for posting under an old log in.
'especially since a bit of person watching in the gym shows how many people don't train through the full range of movement in the quest to use heavier weights'
Lol, yep, that's me all over! Will certainly try to bear that in mind in the future :)
I find this just about keeps me the right side of injured and able to train my climbing :)
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