/ Drying holds with chalk

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wildbill on 15 Oct 2012
Today I climbed Fishers Folly at Shepherds Crag in the Lakes. Some of the holds were wet but not too bad. However towards the end of the traverse one of the holds was not just covered in chalk, but it appeared that someone tried to dry the hold by emptying half of their chalk bag onto it. I'm not kidding about the amount of chalk either. This had turned the hold into a slimy, slippy chalk paste covered mess of a hold. Also one of the holds on Kransic Crack Direct had had the same treatment.

So yes I am having a moan, but thought I'd put the question forward...

Would you do this and how much chalk is acceptable in peoples opinion?

My thoughts are that a little chalk is fine, but not a massive amount. If you can't brush it off when you're done, then have a really good think if it's a good idea to or not and think about the people who will climb the route after you.


Skip - on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill:

Personally i don't find that chalk drys holds, but just "turns the hold into a slimy, slippy chalk paste covered mess" as you said.

Led a very wet 1st pitch of Doorpost at Bosigran yesterday, managed the wet holds without chalk.
gethin_allen on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill:
could it have been that someone had tipped their chalk on this hold by accident? I've only seen people trying to dry holds in this was on indoor boulder problems but this route is nowhere near as technically difficult as most bouldering problems.
The Ivanator - on 16 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill: Personally I find a portable blow torch is far more effective, leaves the holds nice and warm too.
peaches69 - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to The Ivanator: ha ha, nice
peaches69 - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill: in the respect of drying holds, generaly while bouldering, using towel, beer towels and tissue to get rid of most of the moisture/damp/wetnes. if using chalk after this u will probably need to chalk then brush of and repeat process untill useable. i have much experience in trying to dry holds, ha ha.


using a bucket load is pretty...well...stupid and hard to get rid of. it will also take holds longer to dry when left in comparison to bare rock. in my opinion less chalk is more acceptable... like standard climbing
jkarran - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill:

> Would you do this and how much chalk is acceptable in peoples opinion?

Sometimes. Dry hold with a rag then dust on chalk, wait a moment, brush it off damp - repeat until hold is dry enough to use. Uses very little chalk and what is used is brushed off. Used to have to do it a lot while bouldering around the tide line.

jk
jonnie3430 - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to wildbill:

Surely you just take your chalk ball out, dot it on the hold and put it away again??? I mean, we are still all using chalk balls aren't we (after the faff to get people to use them)?
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wildbill on 17 Oct 2012
I agree with most peoples comments. The only time I've dryed holds has been when bouldering. If it's damp then I'll put a little bit of chalk on and then brush it off or slap it with a towel.


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